ok, if my brakes go out (there starting to squeak) How much should it cost to do it diy style.

I wanted autozone blanks, need a reccomendation for brake pads, and new fluid.

if i am doing the fronts, should i just do the rears as well?

is it worth it to put in new SS break lines as well?

looked in the FAQ and found nothing, thanks
BTW: this is for a 96 ls. all stock.

 

get some axxis/pbr ultimates off ebay. i got mine for 68 shipped at all 4 corners. rotors and fluid is autozone stuff. typically the rears wear a lot slower than the fronts so just inspect the rears first before buying any pads. as for the lines, some people say that they burst but unless you're tracking the car I would skip the lines. Plus, it looks like you're trying to save money so good lines aren't exactly cheap.

 

ok.

any word for a FAQ. like could a project like this get tackled in a day buy two people?

 

Here is a article on brake pads and rotors.
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=373
and one for brake bleeding
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=417

Shouldn't take more than a few hours. You will need either a special brake tool or a big *** flat head to get the rear piston in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redGSRguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a article on brake pads and rotors.
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=373
and one for brake bleeding
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=417

Shouldn't take more than a few hours. You will need either a special brake tool or a big *** flat head to get the rear piston in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Couldn't have said it better myself^ you should be able to knock it out in around an hour with an extra set of hands, and air tools..

 

ok. now the brake tool, is that something i can borrow or do i need to buy?

 

It is like 5 dollars at sears, works pretty crappy in my opinion. I'd just get a HUGE flat head and turn the piston back in.

 

buy brake cleaner and clean down all the new parts and the old clips on the caliper u have to reuse.
I HIGHLY recommed buying a impact driver to get off the rotors. im 99% sure u will strip them or have a major hard time getting the screws off the rotors without one. there only like 12$ too and well worth it

 

for the rear pistons you can get a really big like 8'' long clamp and tighten it that way.

 

impact driver? whats that .....

like an impact wrench?

 

<U>Impact driver </U>- Costs about 20 bucks from Home Depot or Sears. It will make your life a lot easier and will remove the rotor screws without a problem. Just make sure to use the right size phillips head. Place the driver into the screw head and then take a hammer and whack the crap out of the driver. The force of the impact will generate enough torque to loosen the rotor screws.


<U>Pads</U>

I recommend getting Cobalt Friction GT Sports. I believe their new pad compound was just released and it is suppose to be even better. I have the older compound and they are great.

Just remember that if you choose to uprgade to a pad that has better bite, expect some consequences, like:
More brake dust
Possibly a decrease in cold bite
More sqeauling

<U>SS brake lines </U>

IMO i would not get SS brake lines for a DD car, unless you plan on inspecting them every now and then.

Here is a good link regarding SS brake lines; http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Pe...s.htm

Now I'm not saying not to get them, because there are a lot of people using them daily without problems. But personally, I wouldn't risk it. A good set of pads and fluid will do the trick.

<U>Brake Fluid</U>

Im currently using ATE Super Blue 200 and recommend it. You should have no issues with it and I doubt you will boil the brakes with street and some track driving.

<U>Brake fluid specs;</U>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1788969

<U>Brake Rotors</U>

It seems like your on the right track with those.

You should check the ITR FAQ out. Even though some of the info may not be directly related. You can still get a good idea of good pads, rotors, fluid, etc.

Ali

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yjischoking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the rear pistons you can get a really big like 8'' long clamp and tighten it that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The rear brake pistons are screwed in, do not use a clamp on the rear pistons. The C-clamp is used on the front brakes only to push the piston cup in (use an old pad between the cup and the clamp).

I always use an open ended wrench placed in the 'X' groves on the rear pistons with a screw driver placed in the closed end of the wrench to twist the rear brake pistons back in, works like a charm. I have the borg looking tool, and my wrench method works better because our calipers are so small, the box tool wouldn't fit in the caliper.

You don't need to bleed brakes unless you open the system, although it is advised if the brake fluid is old. Just changing pads and rotors doesn't require bleeding.

Brembo blank rotors are good rotors, but you don't need them unless yours are worn past minimum thickness (stamped on the rotor), or are in poor condition which can't be machined without reaching minimum thickness specs.

 

the clamp is used to apply pressure on the rear piston. then as you turn the clamp, it will screw the piston in. It is not used to push the piston in but rather to use the friction between the two surfaces as a screwdriver.

 

best place to buy ATE super Blue? its at amazon for 11 bucks for a liter ...

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Bl...L0YMO

so, do you just need sockets, jack, large flathead screwdriver, impact driver to do this job tool wise?

 

and stands and some anti-squeal compound. as for the large flathead I have never seen one that big...You'll see once you look at the rear calipers. The clamp is a lot easier to use as a "screwdriver"

 

is anti squeal a must?

can you pick that up at like napa?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TanCar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is anti squeal a must?

can you pick that up at like napa?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not required. And you can pick it up at Napa, Autozone, Discount Auto Parts, etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TanCar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, do you just need sockets, jack, large flathead screwdriver, impact driver to do this job tool wise?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im pretty sure the team-integra links that provide a how-to have a tool list.

As far as the "screwdriver" needed for the rear pistons is use a screwdriver type chisel, which has a wide flat head when compared to a scewdriver.

Ali

 

i just got some napa rotors, damn there expensive!

are they normally like 45 bucks a rotor?

 

Its been a while but i believe my autozone fronts were just over $20 each. And the rears were around $12 each.

Ali

 

sounds like i need to comparative shop at autozone .....

will they take them back? (the napa ones) i still have my paperwork and stuff ...

 

They should.

I've returned rotors at autozone because they kept on giving me the wrong ones.

Ali

 

will i need more then 1 liter of brake fluid?

looking where to buy the brake fluid.

 

You know you probably don't need new rotors right? The squeaking noise is just the wear indicators on the pads telling you that you need new pads. Just find out where the sqeaking is coming from (front of rears) and change the pads. Take's all over 45 minutes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TanCar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will i need more then 1 liter of brake fluid?

looking where to buy the brake fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure you'll need two bottles to be able to properly flush out the system.

Ali