info on Motul 600 racing brake fluid
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From: official euro R hospital, AUSTRIA
Since I did a search and googled a bit around I found following info about the 600 brake fluid.
Not usebale for street, has to be changed every 2nd race or all 4 weeks.
WTF?!
Not usebale for street, has to be changed every 2nd race or all 4 weeks.
WTF?!
Mutul 600 is very hydroscopic, unlike ATE superblue.
It's not really that bad... a friend of mine (pyromasteR) changes it out every 3 months.
edit - that's 3 months of street driving.
It's not really that bad... a friend of mine (pyromasteR) changes it out every 3 months.
edit - that's 3 months of street driving.
I am also a former ATE user who has switched to Motul 600. I change it every couple of months. Definitely boils less than ATE - although it did seem to give a slightly softer pedal feel. Could be just in my head, though.
Softer pedal in general, but it's hard to boil. I used to run it on the street all the time in my S4. Bled it once every 6 months.
Sheeeit. I haven't bled the brakes since last August on my race car. It's running Motul. Ask any of my passengers if my brakes weren't working well at the Expo.
Warren
Sheeeit. I haven't bled the brakes since last August on my race car. It's running Motul. Ask any of my passengers if my brakes weren't working well at the Expo.
Warren
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well.... So you <u>do</u> use the brakes? At least occasionally?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bwahahaha.... :D
Well.... So you <u>do</u> use the brakes? At least occasionally?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Bwahahaha.... :D
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not usebale for street, has to be changed every 2nd race or all 4 weeks.
WTF?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Waste of money. IMO.
Just get ATE racing and flush after every driving event or every year on the street.
WTF?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Waste of money. IMO.
Just get ATE racing and flush after every driving event or every year on the street.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Softer pedal in general</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought all of this was a load of horseshit
I thought all of this was a load of horseshit
It's always been softer when I change to Motul. It's just slightly more compressable than other brake fluids. Beats me. Before this, I thought fluids were basically uncompressable. I guess 1000 psi of line pressure changes that a bit.
Warren
Warren
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not usebale for street, has to be changed every 2nd race or all 4 weeks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not true. Not true at all. Motul RBF 600 doesn't accumulate moisture any faster than any other brake fluid (except Castrol SRF, which costs five times as much).
I've gotten great results from Motul - I flush it in spring and it's good for the entire season (8 months, 8-10 track events).
Motul has higher boiling temperatures, both dry and wet, than ATE. However, Cobalt Friction has fluid whose boiling temperatures are even higher. And both fluids (Motul and Cobalt) are reasonably priced. I'm happy to spend a few bucks for the best protection against boilover.
Here are the dry and wet boiling points for many of the most popular brake fluids:
ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
That's not true. Not true at all. Motul RBF 600 doesn't accumulate moisture any faster than any other brake fluid (except Castrol SRF, which costs five times as much).
I've gotten great results from Motul - I flush it in spring and it's good for the entire season (8 months, 8-10 track events).
Motul has higher boiling temperatures, both dry and wet, than ATE. However, Cobalt Friction has fluid whose boiling temperatures are even higher. And both fluids (Motul and Cobalt) are reasonably priced. I'm happy to spend a few bucks for the best protection against boilover.
Here are the dry and wet boiling points for many of the most popular brake fluids:
ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
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