how to: front brake pad change
i just received panther+ (front) and axxis ultimate (rear) pads from carbotech andie. i put them in today for my track event this saturday at limerock. here's how you do it:
take the wheel off and you'll see this:
loosen the top caliper bolt and remove the bottom bolt, 14mm i believe:
side view of the caliper, the bottom bolt is already loosened:
swivel the caliper upwards so the pads are exposed, be mindful of the black hose coming out of the caliper, that is your brake fluid:
your pad will slide right out of its bracket, there is a pad on either side of the rotor:
close up of pad bracket:
our new pad will be thicker than the used pad, therefore we must push the piston in for clearance. i use a 6" c-clamp, push the piston inward until it is flush with the caliper surface - don't break your ****!
panther+ pad (top) versus stock:

one of the stock pads will have a shim on it, put that shim on the panther pad. the grey stuff on the stock pad is molycote anti-squeal from the factory. i don't have any of this stuff so let's hope the squeaks aren't too bad!
this is a pretty easy job, it will take about 10min. flush a little brake fluid afterwards.
take the wheel off and you'll see this:
loosen the top caliper bolt and remove the bottom bolt, 14mm i believe:
side view of the caliper, the bottom bolt is already loosened:
swivel the caliper upwards so the pads are exposed, be mindful of the black hose coming out of the caliper, that is your brake fluid:
your pad will slide right out of its bracket, there is a pad on either side of the rotor:
close up of pad bracket:
our new pad will be thicker than the used pad, therefore we must push the piston in for clearance. i use a 6" c-clamp, push the piston inward until it is flush with the caliper surface - don't break your ****!
panther+ pad (top) versus stock:

one of the stock pads will have a shim on it, put that shim on the panther pad. the grey stuff on the stock pad is molycote anti-squeal from the factory. i don't have any of this stuff so let's hope the squeaks aren't too bad!
this is a pretty easy job, it will take about 10min. flush a little brake fluid afterwards.
Dunno what compound/pads u were running before, but I was told that I need to resurface my rotors to switch to p+'s cause I am running ccx's now. I desided to buy new rotors instead that why i could switch the pads back and forth as see which ones perform better at different tracks.
I'll just have to see how the brake balance turns out with those P+ in the back!

Willis
i didn't really know how to recondition the rotor to be ready for the new pads. in the future i may just have track rotors and street rotors. i will break in the pads tonight according to andie's suggestions:
brake 4-6 times from 60-30 with firm steady pressure
brake 3-5 times from 60-0 with firm steady pressure
cool brakes for at least 30min
brake 4-6 times from 60-30 with firm steady pressure
brake 3-5 times from 60-0 with firm steady pressure
cool brakes for at least 30min
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just drove around breaking in the pads. the initial bite of the p+ isn't too great (this was expected); i'll give it few days to see if the cold stopping is bothersome enough to swap the stockers back in after track days. i didn't keep track, i just did a lot (10-15) of 60-30mph. the first few repetitions got the brakes up to temp, then the car was slowing down hard! i then did about 10 reps of 50-0 just hard enough to make abs come on (this was in the rain). these pads are nice!!! i drove home very slowly (8-10min) without using the brakes and parked. i'll leave the car overnight and consider the pads bedded. tomorrow i'm getting my big heavy 205/55/15 all seasons swapped for my semi bald stockers, lighter and stickier. can't wait for limerock!!!
i didn't resurface mine, mainly because I ran out of time before the track event so i just left it.. all i gotta say is that if you don't feel pulsation when you brake, then it should be fine....
tj
tj
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
loosen the top caliper bolt and remove the bottom bolt, 14mm i believe:
Otherwise
do you have any pics of the rear install? i have seen that a special socket bit is required to turn the rear piston... is this the case? where can you get this part?
thanks,
phil
thanks,
phil
Acura wont even replace pads without resurfacing the rotors. First time I heard this I immediently thought it was just a scam to get more money. My brakes have 47k on them now and have about 1/3 pad left, and now I know why they resurface them. My rotors are really warped, too many high speed braking I guess
. I want to try and replace my brakes myself...
How do I resurface my rotors or do I just take it somewhere?
And do you guys recommend resurfacing the rotors everytime you replace the pads?
. I want to try and replace my brakes myself... How do I resurface my rotors or do I just take it somewhere?
And do you guys recommend resurfacing the rotors everytime you replace the pads?
You will have to take the caliper off. Then get an impact screwdriver and take off your rotors. You can take them to Kragen and they will resurface each for about $10.
don't bother resurfacing your rotors (or any rotors for that matter). resurfacing creates a smooth surface, but leaves the rotor with an unequal thickness (shaving the high spots off). ultimately, a resurfaced rotor will warp much quicker than a new one. you should just order a set of brembo rotors, cost under $100 for the front pair.
Fawk brembo... go to autozone... 23.95 a piece... works kick ***... for a 93-95 legend. Plus 90 day warrenty. Taking my set back I warped at Expo and getting another set
Fawk brembo... go to autozone... 23.95 a piece... works kick ***... for a 93-95 legend. Plus 90 day warrenty. Taking my set back I warped at Expo and getting another set
thomas
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