The Official EF Discussion Thread
i wish i knew. the only thing i can figure is that this car was swapped before they came out with mounts. im using DA mounts. the brackets they welded in are pretty f'n solid. alot more heavy duty than stock
I'm curious how those velocity stack intakes work. Is there a filter I can't see?
Cool, I may be interested. I have three different setups I'm going to test fit this weekend to decide what I want (EG cold air, DC cold air, ITR/EG6 OEM tube/box).
I vote for this. I had an AEM short ram on my '98 coupe years ago and it would fit great in an ef. The mount that's welded onto it should work as well...unless you go with a generic and just make your own mount.
I'm going to sell my AEM cold air that I had powdercoated black soon. It's too small for a b-series and being on the dyno 3 times still couldn't get vtec cross over to not dip. I'd sell it to you cheap, but I have to get a suitable replacement first.
I'm going to sell my AEM cold air that I had powdercoated black soon. It's too small for a b-series and being on the dyno 3 times still couldn't get vtec cross over to not dip. I'd sell it to you cheap, but I have to get a suitable replacement first.
I also agree with using the EK intake on an EF.
Here is the EK Si AEM intake on my first CRX, back in ~'01:

And here is another EK Si AEM intake on my previous CRX:
Here is the EK Si AEM intake on my first CRX, back in ~'01:

And here is another EK Si AEM intake on my previous CRX:
i like cold air intakes from DC integras. not sure if they work on CRX's. you'd definately have to move the battery at least. it goes in front of the tranny.
like this:
like this:
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,113
Likes: 0
From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA

As for the '99-00 si cold air intake...it'll work for a d-series, but for a b-series, it sucks. I don't get it. They made it for a b16a, but it's too small for my GSR. Threw a short ram on my car on the dyno and my power curve immediately became smooth with no dip at vtec x-over.
Unfortunately it won't work. The unibody is designed differently up there. On an EF, when the intake bends towards the right side of the car, it'll just hit the framing. 
As for the '99-00 si cold air intake...it'll work for a d-series, but for a b-series, it sucks. I don't get it. They made it for a b16a, but it's too small for my GSR. Threw a short ram on my car on the dyno and my power curve immediately became smooth with no dip at vtec x-over.

As for the '99-00 si cold air intake...it'll work for a d-series, but for a b-series, it sucks. I don't get it. They made it for a b16a, but it's too small for my GSR. Threw a short ram on my car on the dyno and my power curve immediately became smooth with no dip at vtec x-over.
help please folks. put a 92 b15b7 from a eg into my 1991 si. changes the driverside mount and mount bracket with an ef one. got a custom passenger side mount because im keeping the hydraulic tranny.now im just trying to get her wired up and running. I have a few things u guys tell me what I should do. I have a dpfi harness and a 1991 si mpfi harness. i also have a obd0 to obd1 jumper. I was hoping the mpfi harness could be used with the stock eg intake manifold and then I could use the jumper harness to run the obd1 ECU dizzy ad 02 sensor. I also have a bare intake manifold from a d16a6 I could use. someone please give me some advice.also i couldnt get the rear mount to line up.which one do I use? thanks guys!


so you took out the d16 and si tranny for a d15 and dx tranny. seems like alot of work to be slower.
you cant use the obd1 harness, just put the a6 harness on the b7 use all the a6 parts plugs right up, if you use the a6 injectors.
the rear mount isnt just going to magically line up.
you cant use the obd1 harness, just put the a6 harness on the b7 use all the a6 parts plugs right up, if you use the a6 injectors.
the rear mount isnt just going to magically line up.
so you took out the d16 and si tranny for a d15 and dx tranny. seems like alot of work to be slower.
you cant use the obd1 harness, just put the a6 harness on the b7 use all the a6 parts plugs right up, if you use the a6 injectors.
the rear mount isnt just going to magically line up.
you cant use the obd1 harness, just put the a6 harness on the b7 use all the a6 parts plugs right up, if you use the a6 injectors.
the rear mount isnt just going to magically line up.
clean title si from orig owner-250
b15a7 with less then 90xxx miles-250
jumpers-less then 200
obd1 ECU and d16a6 harness-free
innovative mounts-220
sonem racing hydraulic tranny conversion with steel braided lines-220
so total comes to less then 1200. thats a good deal for a clean 1991 ef si running with a clean engine bay and in as good as shape as mine is. i dont mind the small hassels, because when im done it'll be a CLEAN daily driver. I drive a sr20 s13 with a garrett t28 and all the bells and whistles. if it was about power id just find a GSR and throw it in. this is a project.
so the crx is down again grr...
Had it running awesome for about a week when the tranny (cable J1) started to give me problems. It sounded like a "clinking" sound coming from the transmission area. This is before I pulled the motor to replace the head gasket and throwout bearing (which I thought was the original problem because the transmission was tough to get into gear).
So after I get to look at the tranny I went to replace the throwout bearing when I noticed that the spring on the bearing was only clipped on one side. Odd...
Replaced and put back together and car is running fine except for said "clinking" was still present!
AND now the car would be in gear and I would be at a stop with the clutch in and the car would suddenly grab and pull me forward! WTF!? This would only happen randomly though and not all the time.
With in a day or two the car became increasingly difficult to get into and out of gear until it would not go into gear anymore, or when motor is off put into gear and wont come out after motor is started. F*CK...
So this is what I need...
#1. Whats the best way to get the tranny out?:
-Pull the whole motor or just the tranny?
#2. Possible diagnosis:
-Bad clutch, or internals?
Cliffs:
-Tranmission is giving me problems.
-Car lurches forward when in gear and clutch down at a stop.
-Weird "Clinking" sound coming from tranny area.
-Replaced throwout bearing when tranny was apart from motor and half the spring was detatched.
-and now the car won't go into gear when started and wont come out after putting it in gear and started and acts like the clutch is not depressed.
Had it running awesome for about a week when the tranny (cable J1) started to give me problems. It sounded like a "clinking" sound coming from the transmission area. This is before I pulled the motor to replace the head gasket and throwout bearing (which I thought was the original problem because the transmission was tough to get into gear).
So after I get to look at the tranny I went to replace the throwout bearing when I noticed that the spring on the bearing was only clipped on one side. Odd...
Replaced and put back together and car is running fine except for said "clinking" was still present!

AND now the car would be in gear and I would be at a stop with the clutch in and the car would suddenly grab and pull me forward! WTF!? This would only happen randomly though and not all the time.
With in a day or two the car became increasingly difficult to get into and out of gear until it would not go into gear anymore, or when motor is off put into gear and wont come out after motor is started. F*CK...
So this is what I need...
#1. Whats the best way to get the tranny out?:
-Pull the whole motor or just the tranny?
#2. Possible diagnosis:
-Bad clutch, or internals?
Cliffs:
-Tranmission is giving me problems.
-Car lurches forward when in gear and clutch down at a stop.
-Weird "Clinking" sound coming from tranny area.
-Replaced throwout bearing when tranny was apart from motor and half the spring was detatched.
-and now the car won't go into gear when started and wont come out after putting it in gear and started and acts like the clutch is not depressed.
hmm..
most likely its a busted disc...seen the springs blow out and cause WEIRD engagement. multiple multiple times.
-dont yank the engine. you can take the trans alone out the bottom in about 30 minutes if you rule the school.
easy peasy japaneasy.
1) jack up WAY HIGH, put on jackstands, pull wheels
2) break the 32mm axle nuts loose, pop the lower ball joint loose.
3) drain trans, pop axles out, pop shift linkage off
4) pull a bunch of 17mm trans bolts, take the mounts off, and put a jack or jackstand (with a piece of wood on top) supporting the engine.
BAM, your off.
we've pulled trannies, tanken them apart, fixed something inside, and popped them back in in under 1 hour.
get all the tools in one spot, clean, well lit. drink a few coffiees. put on some Millencollin, and get wrenching. thats what i do.
good luck buddy.
most likely its a busted disc...seen the springs blow out and cause WEIRD engagement. multiple multiple times.
-dont yank the engine. you can take the trans alone out the bottom in about 30 minutes if you rule the school.
easy peasy japaneasy.
1) jack up WAY HIGH, put on jackstands, pull wheels
2) break the 32mm axle nuts loose, pop the lower ball joint loose.
3) drain trans, pop axles out, pop shift linkage off
4) pull a bunch of 17mm trans bolts, take the mounts off, and put a jack or jackstand (with a piece of wood on top) supporting the engine.
BAM, your off.
we've pulled trannies, tanken them apart, fixed something inside, and popped them back in in under 1 hour.
get all the tools in one spot, clean, well lit. drink a few coffiees. put on some Millencollin, and get wrenching. thats what i do.
good luck buddy.
im pretty sure they were on top versus the other high performance tires in the same range but this was some time ago. it was a grassroots article.
TireRack says dry grip...no other non r-comps can compete, but the feel isn't as good, and in the wet they're worthless
Either way....for about $100 less for the set, and outstanding dry grip....it's hard to say no lol
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,113
Likes: 0
From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
easy peasy japaneasy.
1) jack up WAY HIGH, put on jackstands, pull wheels
2) break the 32mm axle nuts loose, pop the lower ball joint loose.
3) drain trans, pop axles out, pop shift linkage off
4) pull a bunch of 17mm trans bolts, take the mounts off, and put a jack or jackstand (with a piece of wood on top) supporting the engine.
BAM, your off.
we've pulled trannies, tanken them apart, fixed something inside, and popped them back in in under 1 hour.
get all the tools in one spot, clean, well lit. drink a few coffiees. put on some Millencollin, and get wrenching. thats what i do.
good luck buddy.
1) jack up WAY HIGH, put on jackstands, pull wheels
2) break the 32mm axle nuts loose, pop the lower ball joint loose.
3) drain trans, pop axles out, pop shift linkage off
4) pull a bunch of 17mm trans bolts, take the mounts off, and put a jack or jackstand (with a piece of wood on top) supporting the engine.
BAM, your off.
we've pulled trannies, tanken them apart, fixed something inside, and popped them back in in under 1 hour.
get all the tools in one spot, clean, well lit. drink a few coffiees. put on some Millencollin, and get wrenching. thats what i do.
good luck buddy.








