Sounds like your talking about power locks. Ha. The only thing that would really go bad is the motor. And the civic sedan motors are the same thing, bolt right in. I worried about it being more of a hassle than it was, so simple, and so awesome to have power windows.

 

25 1991 CRX SE's had Power windows and A/C installed by Honda Factory.

And yeah, someone who owned the civic before you had the PW installed..
No Canadian or American civic hatches came with them from factory. Look in the brochures.

 

I know about as much about power windows and locks as I do about women. LOL

 

Can anyone tell me what IM is best for going mpfi from the stock d15b2? And would it be best to use the EF's Si ecu afterwards?

 

they are still available:
http://www.westshorefabricators.com/Honda/index.htm
they say there's no modification required & they're still probably pricey.
'rota92' on here has posted that he can make them too

(sorry to comment on an old post, but i read the thread backwards )

 

I'm no D-series expert, but I'd run a z6 intake mani with a B16 throttle body. I ran this combo on the y7 motor out of my coupe in my '88 crx DX when I had it. I'm pretty damn sure that combo will work on any d-series head.

WHO RUNS A CATCH CAN SET-UP? Can you post pictures of your set-up please???

 

I *think* I remember seeing a huge thread regarding this w/ tons of pictures in the welding/fabrication section.

 

That. Or just straight A6 IM. If you want as much hp as possible form it the y7 flows best but than I heard there are some idle problems and such.

 

Yeah...I've been doing a lot of research and I'm finding so many mixed messages. It's rather frustrating.

 

I do off the back of the block, why what u need to know?

 

You mean Y8?

 

Yeah, my bad. Y8.

 

It's confusing. I'm going with an endyn style setup though. I have the fittings for the back of the block and the tubing if you're interested. I went to an AN setup. All you'll need is the catch can.


and for the seat rail post earlier, I had buddy club rails in my 2000 coupe. They were great rails. From what I've been looking at, it's pretty hard to get anything from Buddy Club at the moment. I went with Bride rails and I'm still waiting on my driver side. It's been a few months.

 

You removed the factory black baffle box? I'm thinking of just going from valve cover to catch can and then catch can to PCV and into black box on back of block.

BUT, a lot of guys buy the Z10 plug and plug up the black box and then tap into two points in the back of the block. I'm not sure what's right...

 

From what I read (whether its correct is yet to be determined) the guys plugging the back of the black with the Z10 are more high HP turbo set-ups who need to run lines back into the block with the prelude fittings to avoid catch can puking and re leave some crank case pressure.

I want to remove the "black box" but I didnt want to run return lines mainly b.c I dont think it will be necessary, but may want to avoid having my catch can throw up. I am unsure if you can just plug it and not run anything else to it, it may need more venting, but a catch can creates more venting than normal anyway so Im really unsure. I too am in for for info on "venting the block" properly.

My plan is to run 2 lines off the FRONT of the VC (most likely -10AN) to a catch can with baffles inside and a filter on top and a drain on the bottom. The reason I am going with the front is b.c there is already a baffle in place on a gsr VC. (using the back of the VC you may need to weld a baffle in) I also wanted to weld the normal nipple near the oil cap shut. Really not 100% on it yet as I wanted to know more before I just go and set-up a 400$ system for no reason.

heres a link to a thread on here with all sorts of set-ups. A couple pages back a guy used the exhaust to pull out crankcase pressure..
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...970101&page=51

 

It differs between NA and turbo setups. For an NA setup, you want a line from your intake to the catch can, on the other port of the can you want to run it to the block (if you have a breather box) and T in the valve cover breather to that line.

For turbo setups, it's the same except instead of the upper charge pipe, you need to use a pre-boost source, such as the turbo intake.

 

Get the endyle (theoldone) kit. Toss teh balck box, and plug the hole. Then remove the two 14mm allen head plugs (like 1-1,5" in diameter) and just install his baffled fittings, run then to the can and done

http://www.theoldone.com/components/breather/

 

The only thing I dont like is returning the oil that ends up in the catch can back to the crankcase. I realize for some race applications its necessary if there's an excess amount and you cant risk overflow. The oil that ends up in the can is typically nasty stuff. Ive set up catch cans on other cars and I just keep an eye on them and empty/clean them out at each oil change.

 

guess you missed the part where i said i have the original bill of sale and the original owner had bought a bunch of options, and power windows was one of them

 

The dealer installed it then. I highly doubt it came from factory with power windows.

 

lol dude ive been sayin that all along, i never said it came stock, i said dealer options

 

I agree, i dont run a return, I empty it once every change. And I produce a decent amount of blow by in full boost.

 

Anyone have a working mpfi ef dizzy for sale? Thinking about converting my dx to mpfi if the price is right. I already have an si ecu and a line on a killer deal for a mpfi manifold with injectors.

 

your best bet is probably a parts store, get one with a lifetime warranty (they die)

every car from our shop with OBD0 MPFI is pretty much required to have a spare dizzy and a 12mm wrench IN THE CAR at all times.

we've had almost ever one die a few times.

 

Did you use the Z10 plug ?