The Official EF Discussion Thread
Thanks for the help, guys. I might just source an LCA and a radius rod and see if that solves it. It doesn't seem to affect the drive, but I know something is bent so it's driving me crazy.
Weaksauce is apparently giving away FF LCAs when you buy the FF coilovers. I've heard good things, but probably not as much good as GC/Koni. I'm still undecided because I don't want to overspend for a 20 year old daily driver. I must be getting old, I can't throw down jack without remorse like I used to.
My friend just did that deal for his ek. suspension is nice. works good. i liked the LCA's to. There designed well
i read this thread a few months ago and found it again for you it may help you out na-all-the-way
When you look at the lower control arm, there is a seam from the casting process that runs the length of the arm. This seam should be straight. You can use a string and pull it taught from end to end and see if it is bent.

When I hit a curb to doge an Excursion, I gunned it right before impact to shift the weight off of the front and luckily my car jumped the curb which limited the damage. I still replaced: front lower control arm, front upper control arm, knuckle/hub, radius rod, and shock fork. After an alignment I still have some caster issues but it is almost perfect. (I probably bent the rear subframe too)

When I hit a curb to doge an Excursion, I gunned it right before impact to shift the weight off of the front and luckily my car jumped the curb which limited the damage. I still replaced: front lower control arm, front upper control arm, knuckle/hub, radius rod, and shock fork. After an alignment I still have some caster issues but it is almost perfect. (I probably bent the rear subframe too)
A friend of mine just bought a '90 LX sedan and the driver side power seat belt doesn't work. Is there a common problem with that? I'm wondering if it's a fuse or if the motor is bad.
Should be a warranty issue. Tell him to bring it to Honda if it isn't a fuse problem.
any info guys?
dpfi to mpfi:
alright so i managed to fix my bogging issue, it was some wiring(flipped positions) and it cured the bogging, but now it still shows check engine for code 16.
how do i test a fuel injector? btw all the injectors are getting power through the wiring.
dpfi to mpfi:
alright so i managed to fix my bogging issue, it was some wiring(flipped positions) and it cured the bogging, but now it still shows check engine for code 16.
how do i test a fuel injector? btw all the injectors are getting power through the wiring.
so it still cranks? try resetting the ecu. most code 16s are caused by the main relay not the injectors themselves. if it wouldnt crank once it would store that code. try resetting it and see. if not try changing the main relay.
Attending my first HPDE even tomorrow. I have about 100 things to get done before I head down to the Phoenix area this afternoon. 
Should be fun. My buddy has one of those Go Pro cameras, so I should be able to at least get one run on that track with that. We might get to see some track action from the Y-49 here.

Should be fun. My buddy has one of those Go Pro cameras, so I should be able to at least get one run on that track with that. We might get to see some track action from the Y-49 here.
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
Attending my first HPDE even tomorrow. I have about 100 things to get done before I head down to the Phoenix area this afternoon. 
Should be fun. My buddy has one of those Go Pro cameras, so I should be able to at least get one run on that track with that. We might get to see some track action from the Y-49 here.

Should be fun. My buddy has one of those Go Pro cameras, so I should be able to at least get one run on that track with that. We might get to see some track action from the Y-49 here.

Lookin' for some opinions from you guys. Going to order a new set of "stunna" wheels for the CRX. I'm looking at these Volks:
Volk RE30 -Mag Blue or Diamond Black
Volk TE37 -Gloss Black or White
Also considering
Gram Light GO7's






