the jdm corners are the same as usdm corners (fitment wise).

 

well thats good to know.
i saw that harness in like 4 different threads. It was with the vacuum hose incorporated into it. looked real good to me. But it did not work properly. What's wrong with me making a mental note? BC is the one that told us about it.

 

rywire is god here...even though their shipping was slow as crap and i got the wrong harness

 

we had to do the same thing to my jumper harness (streetlights/zerg industries) loose connection and mushy plastic black plugs that failed. they come with lifetime warranty but i'm not going to waste my time unless they came out with better plastic plugs.

the only difference is mine was and still is throwing a code 9 (no connection from ecu to orange and white wires.)

after creating our own connections, the code 9 went away....and now it's back!

ef problems

 

Thank you sir.

Chemist I wasnt say just clear the code, I meant maybe help you pinpoint the problem.

 

man that sucks, is that why you had that rev limit problem?

yeah ive been talking to both evans and rywire. Trying like hell to chase this down before my tuning appointment (8 days)

 

whats funny is this:

i had a code 6 (my fan switch plug was swapped with my ect plug). this wasn't allowing me to rev past 5000 at idle and 3400ish while driving


fixed that by swapping the two.

after a letting it idle for 20 minutes, (to let the thermostat open to burp the coolant, which never happened) code 9 came up.

code 9 won't let me rev past 4400ish at idle and i haven't tried driving it yet.

timing was on but ignition timing was never set but from my understanding tht shouldn't affect it.

did what i stated in last post, code 9 went away for a good while, and now is back!

so my friend is bringing by his dizzy tommorrow, i think, to check to see if this fixes it.

 

I get this code on both my old and BNIB honda dizzy woot

 

I may buy it if i have to jump ship on mine lol

 

if this happens to me i'm going to have to BFH a single vtec in my rhd.

 

im thinking im just going to part out, cant seem to get an answer or info from anyone... but if i posted about my zero offset rims or how i painted my bay yellow red pink nad green all the ***s would be all over my nuts.

 

Mental note away, but your comment stirs sh*t.

Meh, my job isn't to defend rywire as a fanboy anyway. Comment away...

 

Just like what Jolleygreen said, don't do it! Don't give up! It took me nearly 2 years just to have my car on the road and running and still not done at all. Patient my friend!

 

Just so its clear im not trying to blame ryan.

 

you and me both lol

boosted...dont part it out man

i parted out my red car after it suffered an electrical gremlin and i couldnt figure it out, and it was such a fu**ing hassle with lowballers and shipping parts etc. your car is awesome and you almost have it running

you may be able to get back most of what you spent on it, but there is no way that will make up for the blood,sweat tears and time you put into it....keep it

 

Best quote ever!!!

 

if i can get the socket in there and swivel or wobble, its on like donkey kong!

 

I have a little problems with lining up my doors. Well drivers side.

I'm wondering if at Honda factory, all the panels are put on before paint and then they put windows on? Reason why I ask is because when my driver side window is down, the door shuts easily and its lines up rest of the panels, when the window is up, it kinda hard to shut and the window grabs the rubber and looks like it try to pull it off.

Is my window rack need adjustment? Enlighten me on this....

 

dead thread?

 

If I was in Cali id buy it. Heck if the price was right Id still buy it, only problem is getting it home :S I could drive it instead of flying back next month, but its so complcaited with insurance and crap.. essentially Id have to ship it back as I would be unable to get insurance on it, since it isnt in my name... our laws are tough when it comes to vehicle ownership transfer etc

 

My doors close easier with the windows down or even just cracked. I think cabin pressure is whats making the difference. As for misalignment, I have no clue.

 

have you removed the doors yourself in the past? if so, where did you focus on the alignment when reinstalling the doors?

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OT: we fixed all my ecu codes and axle problems yesterday. does anyone know why my redline would be at 5000ish rpms?

my ecu is not throwing any codes. we switched around some fuel pressure regulators and the only thing not wired up is my speed sensor (electronic.)

everything else runs more than ok. idle isn't jumpy and temperature gets where it needs to minus the stuck thermostat.

...it seems like where vtec needs to kick in is where my redline is.

specs:
p28 ecu
stock h22a longblock
usdm 95 gsr tranny

 

its a dizzy issue, loose pin, bad dizzy w/e. I know im goin through the same bs

 

i figured it could be one of the following problems.

-fuel pressure (fuel pump going bad....etc.?maybe)
-ignition coil connection
-timing off by two teeth
-a bad ecu (or two because that's how many i have and tested)
-vehicle speed sensor wiring (or lack there of for my situation )

i'm not giving up

 

Did you unplug your ecu overnight to clear the code yet? I've had this problem before, but I can't remember what the problem was. this is a obd1 b series vtec distributor right? I would take the dist apart and make sure all the connections inside are good and tight. Not too tight, since you will one day have to remove certain screws, but you know what I mean. If yours is a non vtec, I have a known good case you can swap the internals of yours into to test with another distributor. I'd be willing to ship it to you as long as you ship it back when you're done.