The Official EF Discussion Thread
lol. my gauge cluster hood isnt screwed down, but i think it'd still sound like a bag of marbles. i miss rubber mounts. almost enough to call up LHT and do their mount kit instead. i have the hardest urethane ones from innovative. they were what i had layin around.
and you're welcome. that's for not putting lame techno music in my youtube clip haha
and you're welcome. that's for not putting lame techno music in my youtube clip haha
i sooooo need $5k right about now
http://importsnc.com/forums/vehicles...rx-7-fd3s.html
http://importsnc.com/forums/vehicles...rx-7-fd3s.html
I would use conc H2SO4 , organic solvents wont do ****. A base bath prob would get it off but etch the **** out of it. I would drop the part in a conc acid bath and add water SLOWLY, this will cause the acid to heat up and maybe get that crap off. If not aqua rega and other nasty **** like chromium bath.
idk ive left some annodized bicycle parts in purple power over night and it was gone. I just cant unbolt the valvestem from the wheel with out breaking the bead.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
What's up guys? Can anyone help me with a continuity question I have? I tested the heater blower resistor and it's cool. So, I yanked out my cracked-as-hell climate control to pull the fan switch to check it, but it's asking me to check three things at once.
Here's the link: https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm
My question is, do have to touch all three together to check continuity? Or do I touch, for example on level 1, terminals 1 and 4 and then 1 and 6...or 1, 4, and 6 together.
Thanks much!!! I need this heater fixed...the tundra is costing me a load in gas driving 120 miles a day!
Here's the link: https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm
My question is, do have to touch all three together to check continuity? Or do I touch, for example on level 1, terminals 1 and 4 and then 1 and 6...or 1, 4, and 6 together.
Thanks much!!! I need this heater fixed...the tundra is costing me a load in gas driving 120 miles a day!
I would use conc H2SO4 , organic solvents wont do ****. A base bath prob would get it off but etch the **** out of it. I would drop the part in a conc acid bath and add water SLOWLY, this will cause the acid to heat up and maybe get that crap off. If not aqua rega and other nasty **** like chromium bath.
bwhahahah!
Anodize is basically dying the metal it won't come off with convential removers. Its more likely to just fade after time...a very long time
What's up guys? Can anyone help me with a continuity question I have? I tested the heater blower resistor and it's cool. So, I yanked out my cracked-as-hell climate control to pull the fan switch to check it, but it's asking me to check three things at once.
Here's the link: https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm
My question is, do have to touch all three together to check continuity? Or do I touch, for example on level 1, terminals 1 and 4 and then 1 and 6...or 1, 4, and 6 together.
Thanks much!!! I need this heater fixed...the tundra is costing me a load in gas driving 120 miles a day!
Here's the link: https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm
My question is, do have to touch all three together to check continuity? Or do I touch, for example on level 1, terminals 1 and 4 and then 1 and 6...or 1, 4, and 6 together.
Thanks much!!! I need this heater fixed...the tundra is costing me a load in gas driving 120 miles a day!
So I was driving my car the other day and heard some weird clunking sound coming from under the hood when I was engaging the clutch pedal. The shifter was moving too..."Wtf?". Pop'd the hood and looked around for a bit and noticed my tranny mount was separated from the tranny!!! The bolts (all three) must of backed themselves out because I know I torqued those bitches down.




