The Official EF Discussion Thread
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Anne Arundel, MD
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
i know the idea of hybrid suspension has been beaten to death but i'm hoping someone has some personal experience with my particular setup.
I'm curious if you use some lowering springs on KYB shocks for an EF and the car is slammed; then you put the same exact springs on KYB shocks for DC/EG will the car raise up any?
any idea?
I'm curious if you use some lowering springs on KYB shocks for an EF and the car is slammed; then you put the same exact springs on KYB shocks for DC/EG will the car raise up any?
any idea?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 19,768
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From: gold rust on my mugen rims
Re: (g2_teg_)
theoretically from what I understand off my own street knowledge it will lower the car.
say u put DA springs on a EF it will raise the car in the rear only. Odd but true. I ad DA Tein S-Tech springs on the front of my car and it lowered like normal but when I put the rear ones on it raised the car.
Integra
Specs: -2 Front, -2 Rear
212 lbs/in Front, 140 lbs/in Rear
Civic
Specs: -1.5 Front, -1.4 Rear
269 lbs/in Front, 123 lbs/in Rear
Iunno maybe someone else can better explain this because it kinda confused me with me results. Unless my B16 played a large factor in the 50+ difference int he front of the car.
say u put DA springs on a EF it will raise the car in the rear only. Odd but true. I ad DA Tein S-Tech springs on the front of my car and it lowered like normal but when I put the rear ones on it raised the car.
Integra
Specs: -2 Front, -2 Rear
212 lbs/in Front, 140 lbs/in Rear
Civic
Specs: -1.5 Front, -1.4 Rear
269 lbs/in Front, 123 lbs/in Rear
Iunno maybe someone else can better explain this because it kinda confused me with me results. Unless my B16 played a large factor in the 50+ difference int he front of the car.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 779
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From: John Connor
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I get clowned on by morons all the time about **** like this
what people tend to forget is these are phuckin 19+ year old cars
nothing and I mean NOTHING and EVERYTHING is not going to fit perfect. Even when purchased brand new. Weather conditions like hot and cold do this to metal along with every other man made material in the world.
I hope everyone who has ever said any kinda dumb *** comment about how my front end fits is reading these
someone needs to copy and paste this a FAQ thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't clowning his car dude, I was simply asking why the bumper is wavy under/infront of the headlights. The bumper is urethane not metal, as I'm sure you are well aware of. The fender/bumper fitment/gap can easily be fixed by jogging the fenders, using washers and properly gapping the doors and hood. I am in the market for an siR front bumper and wanted to know why this particular bumper seems to be distorted near the headlights. I have seen the same thing on a white crx also. That is why i asked if he was missing a support bar.
Ps. Anyone who asks a question is a moron?
I get clowned on by morons all the time about **** like this
what people tend to forget is these are phuckin 19+ year old cars
nothing and I mean NOTHING and EVERYTHING is not going to fit perfect. Even when purchased brand new. Weather conditions like hot and cold do this to metal along with every other man made material in the world.
I hope everyone who has ever said any kinda dumb *** comment about how my front end fits is reading these
someone needs to copy and paste this a FAQ thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>I wasn't clowning his car dude, I was simply asking why the bumper is wavy under/infront of the headlights. The bumper is urethane not metal, as I'm sure you are well aware of. The fender/bumper fitment/gap can easily be fixed by jogging the fenders, using washers and properly gapping the doors and hood. I am in the market for an siR front bumper and wanted to know why this particular bumper seems to be distorted near the headlights. I have seen the same thing on a white crx also. That is why i asked if he was missing a support bar.
Ps. Anyone who asks a question is a moron?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 19,768
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From: gold rust on my mugen rims
Re: (nuckingfuts)
when u buy your front end buy it off of someone elses car who is selling it
don't buy it in seperate pieces is my best suggestionit'll be cheaper if you buy it in parts but then you risk having mis-matched parts that may not line up.
that comment was directed towards you directly mang.
I wasn't callin you a moron
don't buy it in seperate pieces is my best suggestionit'll be cheaper if you buy it in parts but then you risk having mis-matched parts that may not line up.
that comment was directed towards you directly mang.
I wasn't callin you a moron
EFSS153
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,826
Likes: 1
From: Tornado Alley
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when u buy your front end buy it off of someone elses car who is selling it
don't buy it in seperate pieces is my best suggestionit'll be cheaper if you buy it in parts but then you risk having mis-matched parts that may not line up.
that comment was directed towards you directly mang.
I wasn't callin you a moron</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like someone already said, James, it all comes down to how much time and effort you put into your fitment. All the parts are the same shape, regardless of which car they came from. If you want OEM fitment, you must spend hour upon hour loosening bolts, tightening bolts, adjusting and re-adjusting. It takes a certain level of skill (not saying I have it) and expertise to know when and where to move parts around. It's a long, long process to get it right. Haven't you ever watched Chip Foose build a car on TV? There are entire teams of people dedicated to test fitting before the car is sent to paint. Many times those old cars are pieced together with parts from many different cars, but when they are done, it's show-winning quality.
I'm fortunate enough to have a perfect fitting front end, just because it's never been wrecked or dis-assembled. I plan on keeping it that way, too. Taking fenders/bumpers/etc. off and putting them back on creates way too much work if it's done properly.
don't buy it in seperate pieces is my best suggestionit'll be cheaper if you buy it in parts but then you risk having mis-matched parts that may not line up.
that comment was directed towards you directly mang.
I wasn't callin you a moron</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like someone already said, James, it all comes down to how much time and effort you put into your fitment. All the parts are the same shape, regardless of which car they came from. If you want OEM fitment, you must spend hour upon hour loosening bolts, tightening bolts, adjusting and re-adjusting. It takes a certain level of skill (not saying I have it) and expertise to know when and where to move parts around. It's a long, long process to get it right. Haven't you ever watched Chip Foose build a car on TV? There are entire teams of people dedicated to test fitting before the car is sent to paint. Many times those old cars are pieced together with parts from many different cars, but when they are done, it's show-winning quality.
I'm fortunate enough to have a perfect fitting front end, just because it's never been wrecked or dis-assembled. I plan on keeping it that way, too. Taking fenders/bumpers/etc. off and putting them back on creates way too much work if it's done properly.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,032
Likes: 0
From: CA, US
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
Realistically speaking, if you have the late-model EF3 T-bar and everything else lines up perfectly (i.e. your rad support has never been replaced and your car has never been in an accident that would put the frontend out of wack)...
1) Check your hood hinges and replace if necessary. 20 years of road use/abuse will (as you've said before) deform the metal slightly.
2) Check your hood alignment via the hood hinges
3) Check your hood latch alignment from both the hood and the T-bar
4) Check the rubber bumpstop adjusters and shim up if necessary
It can only be so many things. As with any cars of this age; there are bound to be one or two body panels that don't fit like they did from the factory. It doesn't really take years of bodywork experience to finesse some thin gauge Honda sheet metal back into place, lol. Doing it right, however, is a different story
1) Check your hood hinges and replace if necessary. 20 years of road use/abuse will (as you've said before) deform the metal slightly.
2) Check your hood alignment via the hood hinges
3) Check your hood latch alignment from both the hood and the T-bar
4) Check the rubber bumpstop adjusters and shim up if necessary
It can only be so many things. As with any cars of this age; there are bound to be one or two body panels that don't fit like they did from the factory. It doesn't really take years of bodywork experience to finesse some thin gauge Honda sheet metal back into place, lol. Doing it right, however, is a different story
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, Canada
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah props to Woddy for driving around slammed.
I took the skunk2 all the way to the bottom
my header was 2 and a half fingers off the ground and I drove 120 miles like that one way
scared me shitless
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn man, that thing looks BEAUTIFUL slammed...
I took the skunk2 all the way to the bottom
my header was 2 and a half fingers off the ground and I drove 120 miles like that one way
scared me shitless
</TD></TR></TABLE>damn man, that thing looks BEAUTIFUL slammed...
EFSS153
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,826
Likes: 1
From: Tornado Alley
Re: (1989CivicSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe I just got lucky because my hood will not fit right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure the hood is the problem? That's where this fitment stuff gets tricky. One or both of the fenders could be out of place, making you think there is an issue with the hood. You can loosen the bolts on top of each fender and slide the in or out. Try 1989CivicSi's suggestions, then check the fenders.
Are you sure the hood is the problem? That's where this fitment stuff gets tricky. One or both of the fenders could be out of place, making you think there is an issue with the hood. You can loosen the bolts on top of each fender and slide the in or out. Try 1989CivicSi's suggestions, then check the fenders.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 0
From: gold rust on my mugen rims
I'LL TAKE A PIC WHEN I GET HOME
I DON' THINK I HAVE EVER REALLY HAD ANY SERIOUS HELP WITH MY HOOD SO THIS MAY HELP
BUT THE ISSUE IS THAT WHEN THE HOOD IS CLOSED THE FRONT OF THE HOOD SIT LOWER THEN THE FENDERS.
WHEN THE HOOD IS POPPED IT ALL LINES UP ALMOST PERFECT.
FROM WHAT I REMEMBER THE EF3 T-BAR IS THE SAME AS THE USDM ONE BUT IT STICKS OUT MORE
IF YOU HAVE A EF9 T-BAR THEN IT NEEDS MODIFICATION
RIGHT??
I DON' THINK I HAVE EVER REALLY HAD ANY SERIOUS HELP WITH MY HOOD SO THIS MAY HELP
BUT THE ISSUE IS THAT WHEN THE HOOD IS CLOSED THE FRONT OF THE HOOD SIT LOWER THEN THE FENDERS.
WHEN THE HOOD IS POPPED IT ALL LINES UP ALMOST PERFECT.
FROM WHAT I REMEMBER THE EF3 T-BAR IS THE SAME AS THE USDM ONE BUT IT STICKS OUT MORE
IF YOU HAVE A EF9 T-BAR THEN IT NEEDS MODIFICATION
RIGHT??
EFSS153
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,826
Likes: 1
From: Tornado Alley
Re: (1989CivicSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FROM WHAT I REMEMBER THE EF3 T-BAR IS THE SAME AS THE USDM ONE BUT IT STICKS OUT MORE
IF YOU HAVE A EF9 T-BAR THEN IT NEEDS MODIFICATION
RIGHT??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it needs mod'ing, IIRC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BUT THE ISSUE IS THAT WHEN THE HOOD IS CLOSED THE FRONT OF THE HOOD SIT LOWER THEN THE FENDERS.
WHEN THE HOOD IS POPPED IT ALL LINES UP ALMOST PERFECT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try this suggestion for that if it's not off by a ton. \/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4) Check the rubber bumpstop adjusters and shim up if necessary</TD></TR></TABLE>
IF YOU HAVE A EF9 T-BAR THEN IT NEEDS MODIFICATION
RIGHT??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it needs mod'ing, IIRC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BUT THE ISSUE IS THAT WHEN THE HOOD IS CLOSED THE FRONT OF THE HOOD SIT LOWER THEN THE FENDERS.
WHEN THE HOOD IS POPPED IT ALL LINES UP ALMOST PERFECT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try this suggestion for that if it's not off by a ton. \/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4) Check the rubber bumpstop adjusters and shim up if necessary</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,032
Likes: 0
From: CA, US
Re: (-NA-aLL-thE-wAy-)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'LL TAKE A PIC WHEN I GET HOME
I DON' THINK I HAVE EVER REALLY HAD ANY SERIOUS HELP WITH MY HOOD SO THIS MAY HELP
BUT THE ISSUE IS THAT WHEN THE HOOD IS CLOSED THE FRONT OF THE HOOD SIT LOWER THEN THE FENDERS.
WHEN THE HOOD IS POPPED IT ALL LINES UP ALMOST PERFECT.
FROM WHAT I REMEMBER THE EF3 T-BAR IS THE SAME AS THE USDM ONE BUT IT STICKS OUT MORE
IF YOU HAVE A EF9 T-BAR THEN IT NEEDS MODIFICATION
RIGHT??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, early model (pre-facelift) EF3's should have an identical T-bar to the USDM Civic/CRX's though. Either way, IMHO modding the EF9 or USDM T-bar is sort of ghetto and a lot of people don't take the time to do it right (i.e. their hood flies up on them). I personally run the facelift EF3 T-bar and everything just bolts up perfectly.
On a side note, is anyone going to see this movie when it comes out?!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCDtdhiCm6A
I'm pretty stoked about it. A parody of a Vietnam war movie but it's not a war movie -- it's an actual war
. Gonna go see it with friends for sure on the 13th haha
I DON' THINK I HAVE EVER REALLY HAD ANY SERIOUS HELP WITH MY HOOD SO THIS MAY HELP
BUT THE ISSUE IS THAT WHEN THE HOOD IS CLOSED THE FRONT OF THE HOOD SIT LOWER THEN THE FENDERS.
WHEN THE HOOD IS POPPED IT ALL LINES UP ALMOST PERFECT.
FROM WHAT I REMEMBER THE EF3 T-BAR IS THE SAME AS THE USDM ONE BUT IT STICKS OUT MORE
IF YOU HAVE A EF9 T-BAR THEN IT NEEDS MODIFICATION
RIGHT??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, early model (pre-facelift) EF3's should have an identical T-bar to the USDM Civic/CRX's though. Either way, IMHO modding the EF9 or USDM T-bar is sort of ghetto and a lot of people don't take the time to do it right (i.e. their hood flies up on them). I personally run the facelift EF3 T-bar and everything just bolts up perfectly.
On a side note, is anyone going to see this movie when it comes out?!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCDtdhiCm6A
I'm pretty stoked about it. A parody of a Vietnam war movie but it's not a war movie -- it's an actual war
. Gonna go see it with friends for sure on the 13th haha
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,032
Likes: 0
From: CA, US
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
Did you just get the EF3 T-bar? I'm only asking because in the picture above it is an EF8/EF9 T-bar.
Either way, the hood should close with the EF3 T-bar and rubber bumpstops. Try screwing them in all the way first then putting a bit of force to get the hood to close. So long as your hood latch is in alignment, there should be no issues. I would get over there and give you a hand as it's literally a 5 minute job, but you're in SD
Either way, the hood should close with the EF3 T-bar and rubber bumpstops. Try screwing them in all the way first then putting a bit of force to get the hood to close. So long as your hood latch is in alignment, there should be no issues. I would get over there and give you a hand as it's literally a 5 minute job, but you're in SD
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,113
Likes: 0
From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I HAVE THE EF3 T-BAR
BUT I DON'T HAVE THOSE RUBBER STOPS ON THE BOTTOM OF MY HOOD
IF I DID THEN MY HOOD WOULDN'T CLOSE ALL THE WAY</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Sell it
2. Buy a real EF9
/discussion
BUT I DON'T HAVE THOSE RUBBER STOPS ON THE BOTTOM OF MY HOOD
IF I DID THEN MY HOOD WOULDN'T CLOSE ALL THE WAY</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Sell it
2. Buy a real EF9
/discussion
Re: (nickrps)
I'll buy it if it's cheap enough. Maybe I need it cuz my stuff doesn't line up 100%. JDM EF3 bumper/filler/lights/hood and USDM 90-91 T-Bar on a 91 hatch... but then again my **** never lined up perfectly ever hahaha
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 0
From: gold rust on my mugen rims
Re: (nickrps)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. Sell it
2. Buy a real EF9
/discussion
</TD></TR></TABLE>
rhd....over-rated
I'm just as fast minus the blind spot
1. Sell it
2. Buy a real EF9
/discussion
</TD></TR></TABLE>rhd....over-rated
I'm just as fast minus the blind spot
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,113
Likes: 0
From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
Re: (vega_ROCKS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
rhd....over-rated
I'm just as fast minus the blind spot </TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh, the fact that it goes against convention is still cool. My roommate says it gets old...but I just dont' believe him!
rhd....over-rated
I'm just as fast minus the blind spot
</TD></TR></TABLE>Eh, the fact that it goes against convention is still cool. My roommate says it gets old...but I just dont' believe him!
EFSS153
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,826
Likes: 1
From: Tornado Alley
Re: (1989CivicSi)
Does anyone have any idea which EF this is from? I told the salvage yard to pull one for me from an '88-'91 Civic 4 door, but I got this. The flange is in the wrong place and it doesn't look like a 4 door axle back to me.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Sonora, Mexico
hey guys.
im totally new to EF's.
i recently fell in love with these hatches after i sold my beloved DA...tear...anyways.
im planning on buying an EF but i want to swap the motor for a d15B, what all will i need?
can i keep the 4 speed tranny?
thanks guys....
im totally new to EF's.
i recently fell in love with these hatches after i sold my beloved DA...tear...anyways.
im planning on buying an EF but i want to swap the motor for a d15B, what all will i need?
can i keep the 4 speed tranny?
thanks guys....
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 0
From: gold rust on my mugen rims
Re: (RuDsOnEr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuDsOnEr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys.
can i keep the 4 speed tranny?
thanks guys....</TD></TR></TABLE>
are gas prices really that bad
yeah u can keep your original tranny
can i keep the 4 speed tranny?
thanks guys....</TD></TR></TABLE>
are gas prices really that bad
yeah u can keep your original tranny