Any EF heads out there have experience with the E-bay Upper Control Arm/Tie Rod Ends/Suspension kits? I really have no problem going all OEM Honda, but the few hundred saved could go towards food and textbooks, lol.

I figure since I have a little more cash this month and I already have my entire frontend apart I may as well replace all wear items.

 

i have the ebay uca's and tie rods and they seem to be nice, but i havent driven on them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


are gas prices really that bad

yeah u can keep your original tranny</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha i live in mexico d00d.

89 is about 7.3x a liter (sold in liters here)
thats about 3.50 a gallon.

i asked because i dont have enough for the cable to hydro conversion kit.

another question.

how low can i have it?

for example; a DA can be real low but it scrapes on just about everything.
and an EK can be real low and it doesnt scrape on everything...

kthanx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I HAVE THE EF3 T-BAR
BUT I DON'T HAVE THOSE RUBBER STOPS ON THE BOTTOM OF MY HOOD
IF I DID THEN MY HOOD WOULDN'T CLOSE ALL THE WAY</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try adjusting the actual latch thats on the hood. If u look underneath the spring u will see a locknut. Loosen that nut and screw the latch shaft (dont know the technical name at the moment) in/out with a flat head screwdriver. See what that does for you.

Also, as 1989civicsi stated, get new hood hinges. I swear it improved my hood fitment 200% after i changed them. And no, dont get junkyard ones, get NEW ones from honda.

1989civicsi: I hate to say it but bite the bullet and buy oem stuff. i have found that the aftermarket stuff wears out prematurely. Its just not worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuDsOnEr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how low can i have it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As low as you can bear to ride/drive around in it lol. I know with my Koni's/GC's/tophats I can literally almost drop the frame on the ground, but I'll have absolutely no suspension travel. Not to mention I wouldn't even be able to get out of my own driveway let alone the garage.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1989civicsi: I hate to say it but bite the bullet and buy oem stuff. i have found that the aftermarket stuff wears out prematurely. Its just not worth it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, you're probably right. I was just about to order the e-bay stuff too haha. As a broke college student I really want to save money, but so long as the parts last like 100k+ miles I'll be pretty happy

 

use rockauto.com and buy moog parts.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any EF heads out there have experience with the E-bay Upper Control Arm/Tie Rod Ends/Suspension kits? I really have no problem going all OEM Honda, but the few hundred saved could go towards food and textbooks, lol.

I figure since I have a little more cash this month and I already have my entire frontend apart I may as well replace all wear items.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am currently using this set. Its not that bad really. I havent seemed to have any problems yet!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rhd....over-rated
I'm just as fast minus the blind spot </TD></TR></TABLE>

You said the same thing about wire tucks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevtecnician &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You said the same thing about wire tucks </TD></TR></TABLE>


SHHHHHHH

AHAHA

I actually did
peer pressure is a bitch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuDsOnEr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i asked because i dont have enough for the cable to hydro conversion kit.

another question.

how low can i have it?

for example; a DA can be real low but it scrapes on just about everything.
and an EK can be real low and it doesnt scrape on everything...

kthanx</TD></TR></TABLE>

d15...

SKY IS THE LIMIT
JUST LOOK @ WOODY CAR

YOU DON'T HAVE TP GO HYDRO TRANNY.
BASICALLY ALL D SERIES MOTOR WILL MATE UP WITH THE CABLE TRANNY AS LONG AS IS CAME FROM A CIVIC.
D16 (SOHC OR DOHC)
D15
D13
ALL GOOD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Yeah, you're probably right. I was just about to order the e-bay stuff too haha. As a broke college student I really want to save money, but so long as the parts last like 100k+ miles I'll be pretty happy </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont count on 100k. Only thing that will last 100k is the OEM stuff. When i said prematurely i meant like 10-15k miles! i put in a set of aftermarket lower ball joints and they had play in them after 10k. I had to do the job all over again with oem ones. Thats why i said its not even worth it!

If you're only option is ebay, then inspect what u have. If the joints and stuff on your car are fine now, dont mess with it. Used but still good oem is waaaay better than the aftermarket stuff.

 

Yeah, I'm definitely going OEM Honda. Just a matter of when my next paycheck comes in. I also want some Function 7 LCA's, but that's another story (and an entirely different paycheck)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE>


Looks great eric. HIDs are nice and match the round fogs.

 

Thanks Joe, it's slowly coming back together

You still work for Honda, right? I'm seriously considering purchasing all new OEM bushings and wear items in addition to trim, weatherstripping, and mouldings at the same time (since I already have the entire car apart). Would you be willing to help me out with that if I make out a list and give you the money? Or should I just order from Majestic Honda?




Modified by 1989CivicSi at 4:13 PM 8/2/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

d15...

SKY IS THE LIMIT
JUST LOOK @ WOODY CAR

YOU DON'T HAVE TP GO HYDRO TRANNY.
BASICALLY ALL D SERIES MOTOR WILL MATE UP WITH THE CABLE TRANNY AS LONG AS IS CAME FROM A CIVIC.
D16 (SOHC OR DOHC)
D15
D13
ALL GOOD </TD></TR></TABLE>

d15 what?
i want to drop a d15b, which one are you talking about?

if i keep the original motor thats in there (d15b2 i think) i plan on doing a full wire tuck.

what cable would be best to use?
are all cable d-series tranny's 4 speed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuDsOnEr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

d15 what?
i want to drop a d15b, which one are you talking about?

if i keep the original motor thats in there (d15b2 i think) i plan on doing a full wire tuck.

what cable would be best to use?
are all cable d-series tranny's 4 speed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

STD TRANNIES ARE 4 SPD
DX/SI ARE 5 SPEED.
ALL HOOK UP THE SAME
D15B IS THE VTEC MOTOR SINGLE CAM THAT CAME IN THE 90-91 SI IN JAPAN AS WELL AS THE EG
D16Z6 EQUIVALENT
WIRE IT UP OBD-1 FOR BETTER TUNE OPTION LATER ON

 

so then i have to buy a dx or si cable tranny then haha...

yeah thats what i had planned on doing, converting it to obd-1, bacause im planning on boosting the single cam.

in the future im going to research the DA front bumper swap too.

so many plans...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Joe, it's slowly coming back together

You still work for Honda, right? I'm seriously considering purchasing all new OEM bushings and wear items in addition to trim, weatherstripping, and mouldings at the same time (since I already have the entire car apart). Would you be willing to help me out with that if I make out a list and give you the money? Or should I just order from Majestic Honda?




</TD></TR></TABLE>

majestic wont have those items. im positive about that. but i think i can match their prices.

 

 

/\ that's a clean buggy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuDsOnEr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d15 what?
i want to drop a d15b, which one are you talking about?

if i keep the original motor thats in there (d15b2 i think) i plan on doing a full wire tuck.

what cable would be best to use?
are all cable d-series tranny's 4 speed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Be careful when you purchase yur d15b. Some are carburated and have no vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

majestic wont have those items. im positive about that. but i think i can match their prices. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll start making out the list then. Hopefully I'll have it finished by end of this upcoming week

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Eh, the fact that it goes against convention is still cool. My roommate says it gets old...but I just dont' believe him! </TD></TR></TABLE>

it does nick the way i see it if a car is hot it doesnt really matter if its rhd or lhd, it will still be sick

but i guess it's easy for me to say that on this side of the fence

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabef-8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it does nick the way i see it if a car is hot it doesnt really matter if its rhd or lhd, it will still be sick

but i guess it's easy for me to say that on this side of the fence </TD></TR></TABLE>

True that. What really does it for me isn't necessarily RHD, LHD, Ridiculous awesome parts, etc. It's more or less the dedication, time, and passion gone into a project . I've seen far too many cars out there with awesome parts, but limited to nonexistent passion of the builder resulting in a poorly assembled car. Case and point is that khaki colored EK that looked amazing on the outside, but motor-wise and internally it was complete and utter garbage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gabef-8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it does nick the way i see it if a car is hot it doesnt really matter if its rhd or lhd, it will still be sick

but i guess it's easy for me to say that on this side of the fence </TD></TR></TABLE>

And how is the car coming along? FYI, Ry and I will be in L.A. next weekend

 

Posted this in the EF squad thread, but hopefully someone can get back to me with a definite answer :

Is anyone here running a Koyo radiator? Thinking about picking one up tonight, but here is my problem:

Koyo radiator is R1945 for the 88-91 Civic/CRX's (which I'm assuming the radiator has D-series hose necks?)

My car is awaiting a B17a1 swap which is pretty much a stroked B16 (i.e. B-series coolant necks)

So my question is...

Will the Koyo radiator for the 88-91 Civic/CRX's work with my swap or will I have to get a 90-93 DA radiator instead?

Thanks in advance guys!