<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Just tried replacing that, brand new from Acura. No luck. So I need to go take that back to acura.

Car just cranks, doesnt start. Radio and lights all work. Belts spin when cranking...

Any other options guys, I really need to get my car running.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i cant belive you changed that without checking for spark first...

and testing for spark is quite easy... just to what project said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i cant belive you changed that without checking for spark first...

and testing for spark is quite easy... just to what project said</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well **** man, thats what a lot of people told me the problem was.

Just pop the plug out and crank?

Do I need to ground it or anything.

 

heres my DA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you check for spark? if its making a popping sound, the cylinders coud be loading up with fuel, but not sparking... a honda with a bad distributor? not possible </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kNOwLedGe. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's not the main relay, it going to be either the rotor, coil, or ignitor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

those two quotes got lost among the 400 quotes of the pic of that k20

 

original paint ftw






Modified by Dateggy21 at 9:34 PM 7/14/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

those two quotes got lost among the 400 quotes of the pic of that k20</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to say the same thing

You should've checked for spark. The problem could be as simple as a broken rotor. Take off the distributor cap and look.

 

Yea, i was thinking somthing Dizzy wise too... i had it hapen to me w/ my Rex just after i swapped it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dateggy21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">original paint ftw




Modified by Dateggy21 at 9:34 PM 7/14/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
original paint FTW, mine is nice too as someone who seen my car would say

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RA22FEVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres my DA

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I really like those rims!!!

 

No spark guys.

So possibly my Rotor or Coil?

All I need to do is pop off the distrubutor cap to check those out right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No spark guys.

So possibly my Rotor or Coil?

All I need to do is pop off the distrubutor cap to check those out right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

most likely it is not your rotor. most like gonna be your ignitier. to check your coil just crank your car and your rpm needle should bounce around. and to check your ignitier your gonna need a volt meter search ht couple good articles on how to do that

 

So assuming my RPMS dont bounce when I crank, thats a symptom of a bad Coil?

Is there anyway to check the coil physically?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RA22FEVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres my DA







</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahhh. Youre the guy with the Celica project. Love your DA...and the project.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So assuming my RPMS dont bounce when I crank, thats a symptom of a bad Coil?

Is there anyway to check the coil physically?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup no bounce= bad coil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DATZ WEAKSAUCE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yup no bounce= bad coil</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine didnt bounce and i had a bad ignitor. check resistance on the coil and make sure its within spec first before assuming its the coil.

 

RPMs didnt bounce

Although, I was looking over my plugs and plugs 1 and 2 are COVERED in oil, like covered.

Plugs 3 and 4 are fine.

Should I try cleaning the plugs? Or does that not matter considering plug 4 is clean and wasn't getting a spark.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSRxSALSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

mine didnt bounce and i had a bad ignitor. check resistance on the coil and make sure its within spec first before assuming its the coil. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How do I go about doing that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How do I go about doing that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hold on let me go check my chiltons and see if it shows the range its supposed to be in. i dont know it from the top of my head

 

alright here we go since my scanner is broken im going to type this out for you. make sure this is done with the KOEO.

1.with the ignition off, remove the distributor cap.
2. remove the 2 screws to disconnect the blk/yel wire from teminal A (positive) and wht/ blu from terminal b (negative) of the coil.
3. using and DVOM, check resistance between terminals. replace coil if not within specification.
-&gt; resistance will vary with coil temp. specifications are at 70F (20c)
4. check the primary windings resistance between terminals A and B is at 0.6-0.8 ohms
5. check the secondary windings resistance terminals A and the coil tower is 9760-14640 ohms.
6. replace coil if the resistance is not within spec.

i hope this helps :D

 

**** I dont have a volt meter

Off to Autozone, again...

I took out my plugs and cleaned them off, the actually terminals on the plugs are fine, so thats not the problem.

whenever I turn my key to III and don't try to start the car, my CEL stays on, is that normal? If not I have my ECU out ready to go to check codes, I just don't know how to do that either

 

anyone have the champagne color DA?? im thinkin bout pickin one up.....thanx

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** I dont have a volt meter

Off to Autozone, again...

I took out my plugs and cleaned them off, the actually terminals on the plugs are fine, so thats not the problem.

whenever I turn my key to III and don't try to start the car, my CEL stays on, is that normal? If not I have my ECU out ready to go to check codes, I just don't know how to do that either </TD></TR></TABLE>

didn't get the chance to read any ones advice yet. but have you checked the main relay? could just be that.

 

hahaha ***...he already bought a new one and it didnt work...he went back to Acura to return it

 

who's an ***? i was just saying lol. was too lazy to read the last 2 pages.