Alright guys I was hoping someone on here would be knowledgeable on this...

I'm having trouble with my ABS system. The pump makes a funny noise when I start the car, and after about 2 mins of driving my ABS light comes on. I'm seriously thinking of deleting the ABS. My mechanic says I need a new module which is gonna be expensive.

I found a thread about deleting it the "easy way" but I never heard the guy's follow up - he just vanished. Any one else had this problem?

 

Sounds like the pump is over running for some reason. Normally unless triggered in an emergency stop the pump will never operate. Sounds like for some reason yours is kicking on. It's possible that the high pressure side is leaking down and the pump is trying to correct the drop in pressure when you start it. Any leaks noted? Hows the level and the distribution block reservoir?

I have deleted mine out of my DA9 awhile ago. I removed everything though and made adapter lines from the prop to the splitter for the ABS unit. I simply unplugged my ABS module and threw it away. It operates on it's own "system" and all related wiring is separate aside from some inputs from brake switch, ebrake, etc.

Never had any issues once removed. It will no longer operate the pump if you remove the module from my understanding.

Honestly though if it's a simple daily driver I'd fix the problem and just keep it installed.

 

Ah I see. Thanks. very helpful!

I will look into the leaks, I am fairly confident that there is one.

 

What fluid do I use for a ys1 I went to autozone and they told me to use motor oil it didn't sound right to me though.?

 

Yeah its motor oil

 

Hello fellow DA guys... Im no newb, but this is my first DA platform. (EG/DC guy that went old school)

Im planning my suspension set-up... First off im buying Shocks/Springs

-Koni Sport (yellow) with Ground Control coilovers (fitted for Koni) Theyre Tried and true, ive had them, theyre awesome, warranty is perfect, quality is top notch.

What springs rates should I get for the DA9?
Its an LS, moonroof, power options, and full interior
I drive it every day, BUT I also live in the mountains and I DRIVE IT every day lol I expect it to impress me.

Tips? educated answers only from please. I dont need a newb telling me to go buy Function/Form and **** hammer it.

 

Im thinking 380-400(f) and maybe 300-350(r)?? Im unsure.

Off the shelf rates are 340/250.

 

Call HONDA instead of Uh-Oh-Zone....

Honda Genuine Manual Transmission Fluid... $7.70/qt It will be in stock. Your trans holds between 2 and 2.3qts... So buy 3qts ($23.10), return 1qt if she only takes 2 to fill.

 

A sneak peak of my project

 

Autozone isn't that far off. Normal motor oil was actually what Honda recommended when our cars were new. Later on they started making Honda MTF and now that's a recommendation. If you look at any of the old repair manuals they call for standard motor oil.

But yeah, now I'd definitely use MTF even though standard motor oil won't harm anything. If your synchros you can also use GM Synchromesh as an additive to help that. I've been listening in on some of the road race guys and apparently a lot of them are using a new Motul 75w-90 made specifically for transmissions like ours. Looks fairly difficult to get right now though and I couldn't even find it on their website. I'm gonna try to get my hands on it and use it before my next track day.

 

That k20 DA makes me want to see more! Lol

 

EDIT

I didnt see the need to confuse the obviously ignorant Honda owner (asks autozone for anything more than a spark plug) with tales of the early 90s Honda fluid requirements... I simply gave him the RIGHT answer.

JUST USE HONDA MTF!

 

There's a build thread!

It sounds like we're over thinking this (not you)

 

So guys... any good DA/DB ground control/koni spring rate recommendations?

I just read that 380(f)/350(r) is a good street/weekend warrior rate for a DA9.
380 is a fairly comfortable rate up front and allows the front end to "dive" a bit and turn in easily, and 350 being very close to even to the front will keep my rear end fairly light and agile to some off throttle rotation...

so much to consider, Ill most likely be using OE front sway bar, and I MIGHT up-size the rear slightly.

340(f)/250(r) just seems like pansy rates to me, especially in the rear. I dont have kids, but id like to keep my teeth lol and have a VERY well balanced turn in from my car, with daily drive-ability.

 

Harder rear spring rates won't do much good since the car is FWD and relatively front-heavy. Actually harder rear springs will probably make it handle worse. The rear ends on these cars are so light that they really don't need stiff springs. Plus stiff does not always equate to good handling. Any imperfection in the road could toss your back end in the air. The 350s will probably not give your car any real handling advantages. It would just be very harsh. Plus the front is supposed to be stiffer than the rear on these cars, 380/350 would be unbalanced.

 

Use Honda manual transmission fluid or Acura. It's the same stuff. Go to the dealer and ask em for what trans year dada da da etc...2 quarts actually does it for my ys1.

 

Latest pic of my teg. @ 2012 Wrong Fitment Crew meet.

 

umm, What?...

Hard rear rates will assist in promoting over-steer at the limit or in heavy throttle changes, especially if I plan to maintain stock, or mildly upgraded sway bars. And an imperfection in the road tossing my 2600lb integra in the air on 350lb/in springs? YOU ARE VERY WRONG.

Many avid racers are using rates like 450(f)/500(r) in our fwd Hondas... some even 700(f)/575(r)... 350 is a ***** spring rate when it all boils down to it. Which is why im considering it for my daily driver/afternoon mountain chaser/weekend Solo warrior.

Please keep your bearly educated opinions to yourself.

IM LOOKING FOR REAL WORLD "SPOKEN FROM EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SET-UP AND PLATFORM" ADVICE....

Not replying is a better option for you. No offence meant.

 

I'm running 12kg/mm (674lbs) front and 10kg/mm (574lbs) rear on swift springs and it's pretty stiff for the streets, but at a competition it feels beautiful. I would probably run 8kg/mm (450lbs) front and 6kg/mm (337lbs), which I have before on some cheap imitation skunk2 springs but it felt too soft. Maybe, because they weren't a quality spring. When I switch out the springs I will get a set of swift springs and see how it feels soon for better comfort on the street though. With the adjustable dampening shock like Koni an 8kg/mm 6kg/mm setup would be ideal since you can make the shock dampening stiff for competition and soft for streets. It also depends on your height too how the ride will feel and handle along with alignment.

My setup:
Tokico Illumina shocks (setting 2 front and setting 2 rear for daily driving. 4 front and 3 rear for competition.)
Swift springs on coil sleeves 12kg/mm front, 10kg/mm rear.
Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bar
Full Energy Suspension bushing kit
Honda OEM rear trailing arm bushing
Rebuilt steering rack, new inner tie rods and outer tie rods, new front upper control arms, new front lower ball joints
Stock alignment settings with -2.4 camber in front and -1.7 rear, 0 toe front and rear, stock caster

 

Thank you sir...

I keep the tires about even with the fender, maybe just 1/4" lower (slightly tucking the tread section only)... I have Enkei Racing 16x7 +38 with a 205/45. so no hella-flush garbage. Depending upon the way the car tracks when finished, I may add extended studs and a mild 5-10mm spacer depending upon where I feel it needs widened.

BUT, I would NOT go low enough to point the LCA's upward, I usually set the height to keep them flat and parallel with the pavement.

There is a kit available through GC right now that has (no extra charge) options for 430/350... I think that might be my best bet. Right now im on 450/450 and the tail comes right around in off throttle. Its very nice in tight situations, but at higher speeds its un-predictable on my weak shocks.

(current, and most likely where it will sit forever)

 

I would not base your spring rates on the above opinion. Like Matty showed, the rates talked about here (sub 400) are quite mellow. I think they're good for many of us. And honestly if my car was a street car I'd go with pretty mellow rates. The benefits to increasing spring rate aren't that big and the benefit in comfort I personally think would be worth it. Now, keep in mind, that's coming from a 30yo with a stock height daily driver. 10yrs ago I would have given you a much different answer. Back then I was running about 550/450 and wouldn't have thought about going lower (rate).

A 350 rear rate will NOT throw the rear end in the air. 350 in the rear is very mellow. I have 600lb springs in the rear of my car and the rear end doesn't get tossed into the air. And keep in mind that the rear of my car is completely stripped (although it does have a roll bar which adds back some of that weight) and thus quite light.

"Balance" is very subjective, and it depends on much much much more than spring rate. There's no way that you can say "380/350" would be unbalanced. In fact, if anything I would say, all other things the same, it would be more balanced in regard to over/understeer. But like I said, that depends on tons of other factors, so it's really hard to make any judgement here.

Your comments about the front rates being higher than the rear do hold true with how the car came stock, and it make sense because the car is front heavy. But when you talk about performance you have to throw that out the window. The vast majority if FF track Hondas are running a stiffer rate in the rear than in the front. And if they aren't, the rates are going to be the same, very close, or they'll have a very big rear sway bar.

Now, with that said, I think a front bias (front stiffer) setup is the way to go for a street car. Why? Because you can still tune the car to handle very neutrally, however in less than ideal situations it will be safer and easier to control. There's a reason why car companies build understeer into their cars from the factory - it's safer.

 

LOL! I love Honda Tech. Kaboom!

You actually kinda did ask for opinions if you think about it, didn't say anything about real-world experience with hard spring rates, but it IS true that stiff does not always make it faster. And yes, I had that same setup (Koni/GC with 380/250) on my old car and it was very good. I had Race shocks though. Felt perfectly stiff with a good set of polyurathane bushings (a very overlooked mod) and rear LCA's. If you want it really stiff then go for it. It sounds like you know what you want, so...

Try not to get angry this time.


And sorry I'm used to spring rates in KG/mm not in Lbs/in so that's what probably threw me. Next time I will use a conversion calculator. I see now that 350 is only like 6.4x

 

Car looks great, I LOVE those wheels

Finding the rates you like is going to be subjective, so I don't think I need to suggested a specific rate combo. But I think you're for sure on the right track. What you're on now should be fairly comfortable and like you said, pretty balanced between under/oversteer depending on how everything else is setup. If you want to make it a little more mellow or safer for rainy conditions you could definitely go down to 450/350 and I think you'd still like it.

It's easy to get carried away with spring rates and lose focus on other things - like your driving. Or, even more importantly, that you may not have the "base" you need to even properly form an opinion on the spring rates you have and how the handling is. Ideally, I think the very first thing you should do to a DA in regard to suspension is bushings. I know it's not fun or glamorous, it's not necessarily cheap, and you don't get the looks that you do from lowering, but really its the most important thing with these cars. You could use $3000 external reservoir race shocks with perfectly matched spring rates and if your bushings are the stock worn out ones that car is going to handle like ****. If you haven't replaced all of your bushings, most importantly the rear trailing arm bushings, then don't even think about different spring rates, different sway bar sizes...etc...etc None of those other mods are going to perform properly or to their full potential until the foundation of the car is sound.

Stepping up to something like the poly ES bushings + OEM rear trailing arm bushings is affordable and will make a difference you can feel. But I'd have to say that now, with the availability of good quality hard rubber bushings (Hardrace) I'd go that route if it fits the budget. I'm currently going thru this process of changing from the ES bushings and Mugen RTA bushings that I've had for years and switching to Hardrace (except for the front LCA because Hardrace doesn't make a bushing for our front LCA's) plus PCI offset rear trailing arm bushings.

 

I hadn't made a new video since I put my motor back in so thought I'd go ahead and make one. 0-130
http://youtu.be/8YFhLzxN1bc

 

What's your set up?