DA Integra's Only
its very possible we did discuss it but where the problem that i would have with the header is where the half rad would sit which is why i didnt think a half rad would work i would have to sit it in a awkward position for the half rad to work im thinking of just using a stock teg rad and slim fan setup
Yes, it sits very, very low!
If you check part numbers, and they are the same, then bam, you have your answer. Yes, it will fit. However, if you check part numbers and they aren't the same you simply need to continue to search for your answer as usual. And what, you wasted 90 seconds of time?
I'd say the amount of times I've wasted 90 seconds finding that part numbers are different is no where near the same as the massive amounts of time I've saved myself when I find out that the part numbers are the same. The benefit to checking part numbers can be huge, whereas the drawback is nothing or next to nothing.
Go look at the part numbers, trust me.
Throwback:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wearedaughters/4091188568/http://www.flickr.com/photos/wearedaughters/4091188568/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/wearedaughters/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wearedaughters/4091188568/http://www.flickr.com/photos/wearedaughters/4091188568/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/wearedaughters/, on Flickr
Yup, just good for the increased stiffness and points of adjustment.
You can easily cut and notch your crossemember to clear just about any header you'd want to run and you can create adjustable caster with accord radius rods or even do something completely custom. And iirc there's even a spherical bearing setup you can run w/ the OEM style of radius rod.
This is one of those things that I'd love to have the time and resources to fully investigate, but realistically I don't. So until I run into a noticeable issue w/ my Full Race I'll be keeping it. I do however wish that I had installed the crossmember all by itself so that I could have a back to back comparison. Unfortunately I built the car from the ground up so there was no baseline with the stock crossmember.
I'm not so certain the FR crossmember is really that much of a benefit at all besides adjustable caster and header clearance. Well, and bling factor. I don't have any data to back it up, but I'm beginning to wonder if a modified OEM crossmember would be superior in all regards except bling.
You can easily cut and notch your crossemember to clear just about any header you'd want to run and you can create adjustable caster with accord radius rods or even do something completely custom. And iirc there's even a spherical bearing setup you can run w/ the OEM style of radius rod.
This is one of those things that I'd love to have the time and resources to fully investigate, but realistically I don't. So until I run into a noticeable issue w/ my Full Race I'll be keeping it. I do however wish that I had installed the crossmember all by itself so that I could have a back to back comparison. Unfortunately I built the car from the ground up so there was no baseline with the stock crossmember.
You can easily cut and notch your crossemember to clear just about any header you'd want to run and you can create adjustable caster with accord radius rods or even do something completely custom. And iirc there's even a spherical bearing setup you can run w/ the OEM style of radius rod.
This is one of those things that I'd love to have the time and resources to fully investigate, but realistically I don't. So until I run into a noticeable issue w/ my Full Race I'll be keeping it. I do however wish that I had installed the crossmember all by itself so that I could have a back to back comparison. Unfortunately I built the car from the ground up so there was no baseline with the stock crossmember.
Ah but Matt, you should consider the mounting location/method. Doesn't the Full Race bar mount to the tow hook location? I would think now you're dealing with force being applied in a different way and that the mounting plates wouldn't be as solid as the factory pieces. The subframe is only as solid as its weakest point. I've looked at it before and I think I feel the same way as Colin.
Ah but Matt, you should consider the mounting location/method. Doesn't the Full Race bar mount to the tow hook location? I would think now you're dealing with force being applied in a different way and that the mounting plates wouldn't be as solid as the factory pieces. The subframe is only as solid as its weakest point. I've looked at it before and I think I feel the same way as Colin.
Sorry, let me clear it up, I was just referring to the units themselves, not on the car.
I guess I mean tie downs, not tow hooks. There's two of them, one on each frame rail on the front of the car right behind the bulkhead. I think each has three 14mm bolts.
It mounts where the stock one mounts.. On each side, 1 bolt straight up into the frame and 2 - 3 bolts right into the frame vertically.
Maybe, maybe not, you're basically ignoring the best and easiest way to gather info regarding that question of whether it'll fit or not. Checking part numbers is the very first thing you should do to check fitment compatibility.
If you check part numbers, and they are the same, then bam, you have your answer. Yes, it will fit. However, if you check part numbers and they aren't the same you simply need to continue to search for your answer as usual. And what, you wasted 90 seconds of time?
I'd say the amount of times I've wasted 90 seconds finding that part numbers are different is no where near the same as the massive amounts of time I've saved myself when I find out that the part numbers are the same. The benefit to checking part numbers can be huge, whereas the drawback is nothing or next to nothing.
Go look at the part numbers, trust me.
If you check part numbers, and they are the same, then bam, you have your answer. Yes, it will fit. However, if you check part numbers and they aren't the same you simply need to continue to search for your answer as usual. And what, you wasted 90 seconds of time?
I'd say the amount of times I've wasted 90 seconds finding that part numbers are different is no where near the same as the massive amounts of time I've saved myself when I find out that the part numbers are the same. The benefit to checking part numbers can be huge, whereas the drawback is nothing or next to nothing.
Go look at the part numbers, trust me.
Originally Posted by mattb16teg
It mounts where the stock one mounts.. On each side, 1 bolt straight up into the frame and 2 - 3 bolts right into the frame vertically.
Sweet, yea hopefully we get down there at a decent time but I doubt it. lol
Remember to bring lots of clothes! It's gonna be freaking cold again.
hahah you had me thinking I was crazy! I've never seen a traction bar that mounts there, wonder what ones your talking about.
You have a point but I would rather buy something quality then attempt to make something half way work. That's just me though. It is also stiffer than the OEM unit. I did some playing around with them back when I put mine on. The OEM one flexed with forces applied to it more than the Full Race unit.
And yes, it does mount to where the stock tow hooks are bolted up, as well as 1/2 of the mounting locations the stock crossmember uses.
arent ef steering racks part numbers diffrent then da steering racks yet the ef rack will work in a da i understand some people wont people to look and search stuff which 70 percent dont find there answer when they search just like how searching the part numbers really dont tell me if it will work i have bout parts from the dealer with the same part number and it not be the right part s again part number dont answer my question
What sort of testing did you do? I don't see how you could do anything worth interpreting w/o some pretty intense equipment. And in an instance like this the rigidity of the part off the car is almost a completely useless comparison. the rigidity of the piece will change once bolted to the car because at that point the piece braces the car as well as the car bracing the crossmember. Additionally, some gnarly research may have gone in to the OEM crossmember, maybe it's designed in such a way that the flex you saw isn't an issue due to the way the forces are put on the piece when installed. Unless you're a high level automotive engineer I don't know how qualified you'd be to make any judgements regarding this stuff (no offense, I don't fall into that category either).
And yes, it does mount to where the stock tow hooks are bolted up, as well as 1/2 of the mounting locations the stock crossmember uses.
And yes, it does mount to where the stock tow hooks are bolted up, as well as 1/2 of the mounting locations the stock crossmember uses.
You point about judgment carries no meaning to me because it is my opinion, I'm not composing a write up for Super Street so no biggie.
I would rather spend the money and buy something that I feel is a superior product.
I also put my traction bar on with mounts, so even though I want to say it felt better, who knows how much of that is attributed to the traction bar itself.
arent ef steering racks part numbers diffrent then da steering racks yet the ef rack will work in a da i understand some people wont people to look and search stuff which 70 percent dont find there answer when they search just like how searching the part numbers really dont tell me if it will work i have bout parts from the dealer with the same part number and it not be the right part s again part number dont answer my question
Even though the part number is different and it can be put in.... you have to think about the things that have to be changed out to make it work. So in all reality it doesn't work because it's not plug and play like it should be when you order stuff from honda. Ive owned alot of hondas and i can say that i've never got the wrong part when i ordered sutff using the part numbers





