Holset users unite!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paul_VR6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Smaller turbine a/r the more shaft speed you get for a given exhaust flow. So, with boost control, boost onset is sooner due to more compressor/turbine revs per engine rev, so you have to bypass more exhaust volume to get to a particular turbo speed and boost level.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're completely disregarded the pressure increase caused by the smaller a/r.
Do you need a larger or smaller wastegate if you are running more boost on a given setup. Smaller. Why is a smaller A/R any different?
You're completely disregarded the pressure increase caused by the smaller a/r.
Do you need a larger or smaller wastegate if you are running more boost on a given setup. Smaller. Why is a smaller A/R any different?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerofdreams8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Someone did 558whp on the HX40/bullseye? I have been looking at those bullseye housings for a long time, but I am hestitant to go to a smaller turbine. I am torn between swapping my hx35 exhaust side for either the bullseye or an hy35. Any more info of the bullseye housings? this is the first time I have seen an A/R listed for his housings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that info was "proprietary" for a while..I just thought I'd give it a try and ask, and now we know. If you have an hx35, I would just stick with the regular 12cm^2 housing..
Someone did 558whp on the HX40/bullseye? I have been looking at those bullseye housings for a long time, but I am hestitant to go to a smaller turbine. I am torn between swapping my hx35 exhaust side for either the bullseye or an hy35. Any more info of the bullseye housings? this is the first time I have seen an A/R listed for his housings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that info was "proprietary" for a while..I just thought I'd give it a try and ask, and now we know. If you have an hx35, I would just stick with the regular 12cm^2 housing..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're completely disregarded the pressure increase caused by the smaller a/r.
Do you need a larger or smaller wastegate if you are running more boost on a given setup. Smaller. Why is a smaller A/R any different?</TD></TR></TABLE>
What paul is saying is that if boost (pressure above atmospheric) is constant the engine will STILL be flowing the same regardless of the turbine, but a smaller turbine will have higher flow sooner and need a larger wastegate to compensate. Uless of course I am misunderstanding, which is quite possible for someone on my level.
You're completely disregarded the pressure increase caused by the smaller a/r.
Do you need a larger or smaller wastegate if you are running more boost on a given setup. Smaller. Why is a smaller A/R any different?</TD></TR></TABLE>
What paul is saying is that if boost (pressure above atmospheric) is constant the engine will STILL be flowing the same regardless of the turbine, but a smaller turbine will have higher flow sooner and need a larger wastegate to compensate. Uless of course I am misunderstanding, which is quite possible for someone on my level.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, that info was "proprietary" for a while..I just thought I'd give it a try and ask, and now we know. If you have an hx35, I would just stick with the regular 12cm^2 housing..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I WAS happy with the spool of the hx35 on my B16 before I got my new manifold; a cast lovefab sidewinder. My old mani was a many times re-welded ssautochrome. Its really hard to make a direct comparison because the ssautochrome creeped so much that my car felt much faster in the top end w/ the ssautochrome. With the lovefab boost holds at exactly my wastegate spring (.5 BAR so like 7.5 lbs compared to 11-12 that I was running on the ssautochrome). Now the car feels like it is more torquey out of boost; (i think due to the smallish single runner after the collector) but I am concerned with the divided housing. The cast sidewinder terminates in a single circular port which is roughly the size of a DSM flange. This single (in my opinion) smallish runner is met by the rather wide and flat piece of the turbine that divides the housing so that now my total inlet area of the turbo is cut almost inhalf. I really would like to get a non-divided housing to solve this problem. I ported the manifold opening as much a possible as well as knife edged the divider- but I don't know if that did anything since I never drove it beforehand.
I see lots of merit in these - priority to the wastegate manifolds. However, I am wondering if it is possible that the wastegate be too large in this configuration(mine is only a 38mm tial). I feel a sudden loss of power when my wastegate opens up though I don't seem to lose any boost pressure. Maybe once the wastegate opens the exhaust is choosing the path of least resistance- but my boost gauge is holding steady. Any thoughts?
I am glad to see so many people realizing the potential not to mention cost of these holset turbos
Yeah, that info was "proprietary" for a while..I just thought I'd give it a try and ask, and now we know. If you have an hx35, I would just stick with the regular 12cm^2 housing..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I WAS happy with the spool of the hx35 on my B16 before I got my new manifold; a cast lovefab sidewinder. My old mani was a many times re-welded ssautochrome. Its really hard to make a direct comparison because the ssautochrome creeped so much that my car felt much faster in the top end w/ the ssautochrome. With the lovefab boost holds at exactly my wastegate spring (.5 BAR so like 7.5 lbs compared to 11-12 that I was running on the ssautochrome). Now the car feels like it is more torquey out of boost; (i think due to the smallish single runner after the collector) but I am concerned with the divided housing. The cast sidewinder terminates in a single circular port which is roughly the size of a DSM flange. This single (in my opinion) smallish runner is met by the rather wide and flat piece of the turbine that divides the housing so that now my total inlet area of the turbo is cut almost inhalf. I really would like to get a non-divided housing to solve this problem. I ported the manifold opening as much a possible as well as knife edged the divider- but I don't know if that did anything since I never drove it beforehand.
I see lots of merit in these - priority to the wastegate manifolds. However, I am wondering if it is possible that the wastegate be too large in this configuration(mine is only a 38mm tial). I feel a sudden loss of power when my wastegate opens up though I don't seem to lose any boost pressure. Maybe once the wastegate opens the exhaust is choosing the path of least resistance- but my boost gauge is holding steady. Any thoughts?
I am glad to see so many people realizing the potential not to mention cost of these holset turbos
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What paul is saying is that if boost (pressure above atmospheric) is constant the engine will STILL be flowing the same regardless of the turbine, but a smaller turbine will have higher flow sooner and need a larger wastegate to compensate. Uless of course I am misunderstanding, which is quite possible for someone on my level.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sort of
The smaller turbine needs a lower overall flow to maintain a set boost level (which makes it spool quicker), so more exhaust volume will have to go around the turbine (wastegate flow) to maintain a given boost.
What paul is saying is that if boost (pressure above atmospheric) is constant the engine will STILL be flowing the same regardless of the turbine, but a smaller turbine will have higher flow sooner and need a larger wastegate to compensate. Uless of course I am misunderstanding, which is quite possible for someone on my level.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Sort of
The smaller turbine needs a lower overall flow to maintain a set boost level (which makes it spool quicker), so more exhaust volume will have to go around the turbine (wastegate flow) to maintain a given boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can completly grind out the divider by in essence will create more lag...on a b16 shootin for low #'s...sub 300's...id say go w/ the 9cm housing...only youll be beggin for traction...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is the 9cm the HY35?
How could you completely grind out the divider? I don't think thats possible, the divider travels ALL the way the the blades. There is a picture somewhere around here that I have seen detailing a divided housing. It doesn't matter because I certainly don't need slower spool. I am planning on 400 whp.
Is the 9cm the HY35?
How could you completely grind out the divider? I don't think thats possible, the divider travels ALL the way the the blades. There is a picture somewhere around here that I have seen detailing a divided housing. It doesn't matter because I certainly don't need slower spool. I am planning on 400 whp.
ill tell you this....top end hx35 pulls like a frieght train at 15lbs...stock exh i was able to put to shame a galant vr4 w/ a green turbo running 15lbs...rool'd on from 2nd....he got me as i was waiting for boost to come on...5k full boost w/ a puny stock exh....soon as it came in...i shoot off like a rocket....3rd....was walkin side by side...and 4th was the stretch to get about 3/4 of a length....lets just say...i had fun...and shut a cocky kid up...god i love my hx35...i told him if he wanted to up the boost...id drop mine to 10...and pull of my dp plate....he said he was all set...guess he didnt want to see a better spool w/ more top end...omg im still shaking....
and yes the 9cm is off the hy35...
you can grind down the divider all the way down as far as you can see...i used a die grinder air tool...worked pretty well
and yes the 9cm is off the hy35...
you can grind down the divider all the way down as far as you can see...i used a die grinder air tool...worked pretty well
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerofdreams8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is the 9cm the HY35?
How could you completely grind out the divider? I don't think thats possible, the divider travels ALL the way the the blades. There is a picture somewhere around here that I have seen detailing a divided housing. It doesn't matter because I certainly don't need slower spool. I am planning on 400 whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The HY I have doesn't have a split housing. Take a look at the picts I posted, then again it is a 2003+ hy.
Is the 9cm the HY35?
How could you completely grind out the divider? I don't think thats possible, the divider travels ALL the way the the blades. There is a picture somewhere around here that I have seen detailing a divided housing. It doesn't matter because I certainly don't need slower spool. I am planning on 400 whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The HY I have doesn't have a split housing. Take a look at the picts I posted, then again it is a 2003+ hy.
Man, I'm trying to pick between a love fab mini me eq and a neukin mani. I like them both, but I was leaning toward the mini me and it seems that the mini me has the turbo flange sitting too close to the block and the big *** hy comp housing would hit. Any ideas?
Anyone have fitment issues with either mani and a holset?
Anyone have fitment issues with either mani and a holset?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paul_VR6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sort of
The smaller turbine needs a lower overall flow to maintain a set boost level (which makes it spool quicker), so more exhaust volume will have to go around the turbine (wastegate flow) to maintain a given boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you're still disregarding the pressure difference! lower a/r= higher pressure for the same amount of flow, intake manifold press and exhaust back pressure. the a/r changes the ratio of volume vs. pressure for a given amount of energy being extracted from the turbine. In order to create that higher pressure, the wastegate will be more closed, or smaller, or how ever you want to look at it.
Modified by rorik at 9:33 PM 9/18/2005
Sort of
The smaller turbine needs a lower overall flow to maintain a set boost level (which makes it spool quicker), so more exhaust volume will have to go around the turbine (wastegate flow) to maintain a given boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>you're still disregarding the pressure difference! lower a/r= higher pressure for the same amount of flow, intake manifold press and exhaust back pressure. the a/r changes the ratio of volume vs. pressure for a given amount of energy being extracted from the turbine. In order to create that higher pressure, the wastegate will be more closed, or smaller, or how ever you want to look at it.
Modified by rorik at 9:33 PM 9/18/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man, I'm trying to pick between a love fab mini me eq and a neukin mani. I like them both, but I was leaning toward the mini me and it seems that the mini me has the turbo flange sitting too close to the block and the big *** hy comp housing would hit. Any ideas?
Anyone have fitment issues with either mani and a holset? </TD></TR></TABLE>
my neukin fit...but it will only fit w/ the compressor on the driver side...and at that i had to ditch the a/c and cut the mount in half....the holset is much bigger than normal t3/t4's...my guess would be the same w/ the mini me...youd have to run the compressor on the driver side....otherwise if you want it on the passeneger...your def gonna have to have the flange be off the block face quite a bit...a good 5-6"
Anyone have fitment issues with either mani and a holset? </TD></TR></TABLE>
my neukin fit...but it will only fit w/ the compressor on the driver side...and at that i had to ditch the a/c and cut the mount in half....the holset is much bigger than normal t3/t4's...my guess would be the same w/ the mini me...youd have to run the compressor on the driver side....otherwise if you want it on the passeneger...your def gonna have to have the flange be off the block face quite a bit...a good 5-6"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i wish i had something to contribute about the manifold, but all i can say is make your own! Then you can make the split housing into an advantage, not the other way around. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My housing is not split. It is a 2003+ hy35 the turbine housing is not split. I think the hy will spool plenty fast on my gsr.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my neukin fit...but it will only fit w/ the compressor on the driver side...and at that i had to ditch the a/c and cut the mount in half....the holset is much bigger than normal t3/t4's...my guess would be the same w/ the mini me...youd have to run the compressor on the driver side....otherwise if you want it on the passeneger...your def gonna have to have the flange be off the block face quite a bit...a good 5-6"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you look at love fabs site the turbine flange on the mini me is really close to the block, I don't think that the hy35 will fit unfortunately. I will prolly go with the neukin.
BTW: anyone have any picts of how they held the internal wastegate closed on these??
I'll post picts of my feeble attempt in a couple of hours.
i wish i had something to contribute about the manifold, but all i can say is make your own! Then you can make the split housing into an advantage, not the other way around. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My housing is not split. It is a 2003+ hy35 the turbine housing is not split. I think the hy will spool plenty fast on my gsr.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my neukin fit...but it will only fit w/ the compressor on the driver side...and at that i had to ditch the a/c and cut the mount in half....the holset is much bigger than normal t3/t4's...my guess would be the same w/ the mini me...youd have to run the compressor on the driver side....otherwise if you want it on the passeneger...your def gonna have to have the flange be off the block face quite a bit...a good 5-6"
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you look at love fabs site the turbine flange on the mini me is really close to the block, I don't think that the hy35 will fit unfortunately. I will prolly go with the neukin.
BTW: anyone have any picts of how they held the internal wastegate closed on these??
I'll post picts of my feeble attempt in a couple of hours.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My housing is not split. It is a 2003+ hy35 the turbine housing is
BTW: anyone have any picts of how they held the internal wastegate closed on these??
I'll post picts of my feeble attempt in a couple of hours.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
take off the whole braket w/ the wg actautor....youll see a small metal bracket that is directly attached to the wg flapper....i closed the flapper all the way...then realized it was still open a lil...but the fmetal bracket was hitting the turbine housin....so i bent it outside the housing so the flapper sat shut close....then w/ one of the bolt holes left from removing the actautor bracket...i had a small piece of steel...drilled out 2 holes in it...and put one side of the steel over the lil **** off the wg flapper bracket...and used put a bolt thru the other hole into the turbine housing...whala...its closed...and unless it shears that bolt in the turbine housing...it aint opening!
BTW: anyone have any picts of how they held the internal wastegate closed on these??
I'll post picts of my feeble attempt in a couple of hours.
</TD></TR></TABLE>take off the whole braket w/ the wg actautor....youll see a small metal bracket that is directly attached to the wg flapper....i closed the flapper all the way...then realized it was still open a lil...but the fmetal bracket was hitting the turbine housin....so i bent it outside the housing so the flapper sat shut close....then w/ one of the bolt holes left from removing the actautor bracket...i had a small piece of steel...drilled out 2 holes in it...and put one side of the steel over the lil **** off the wg flapper bracket...and used put a bolt thru the other hole into the turbine housing...whala...its closed...and unless it shears that bolt in the turbine housing...it aint opening!
I just took a piece of allthread, a thick flat piece of steel, a piece of keystock and some nuts. And here's what I came up with.........................

The flat piece of steel is on the comp housing with the allthread through it and the keystock was ground down on one side to allow the original wastgate actuator shaft to fit with the original retaining clip. I drilled the keystock and tapped it and threaded the allthread into it. Double nuts on both sides will prevent it from ever coming loose.

The flat piece of steel is on the comp housing with the allthread through it and the keystock was ground down on one side to allow the original wastgate actuator shaft to fit with the original retaining clip. I drilled the keystock and tapped it and threaded the allthread into it. Double nuts on both sides will prevent it from ever coming loose.
my '01 HY doesn't use a split housing either and the dp is the 5 bolt style not a V band so for the wastegate flapper I drilled a hole in the flange for my dp, welded a nut to the inside of the flange where the hole was and threaded a bolt through until it hit the flapper and held it closed. I then removed the wastegate and grinded off the mount for the wastegate.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that works...nice job...see on mine where you see the flat peice where your lil metal bracket ends..i have bolts holes...so i didnt have to run a peice of threaded rod....looks good tho
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, yours sounds like it would be sturdy as well. Can't wait to run this baby.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by model x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my '01 HY doesn't use a split housing either and the dp is the 5 bolt style not a V band so for the wastegate flapper I drilled a hole in the flange for my dp, welded a nut to the inside of the flange where the hole was and threaded a bolt through until it hit the flapper and held it closed. I then removed the wastegate and grinded off the mount for the wastegate. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice, more than one way to skin a cat huh?? We should have another holset thread when we're all done with our set ups (though this one looks like it's standing the test of time). So we can show people what these baby's can really do.
Anyone know where to get a 4" v-band flange???
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks, yours sounds like it would be sturdy as well. Can't wait to run this baby.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by model x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my '01 HY doesn't use a split housing either and the dp is the 5 bolt style not a V band so for the wastegate flapper I drilled a hole in the flange for my dp, welded a nut to the inside of the flange where the hole was and threaded a bolt through until it hit the flapper and held it closed. I then removed the wastegate and grinded off the mount for the wastegate. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice, more than one way to skin a cat huh?? We should have another holset thread when we're all done with our set ups (though this one looks like it's standing the test of time). So we can show people what these baby's can really do.
Anyone know where to get a 4" v-band flange???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyone know where to get a 4" v-band flange???</TD></TR></TABLE>
try online diesel shops...or maybe geoff from full-race or stan from fast-turbo.com....im sure both having seen 4" setups will have a better idea...
Anyone know where to get a 4" v-band flange???</TD></TR></TABLE>
try online diesel shops...or maybe geoff from full-race or stan from fast-turbo.com....im sure both having seen 4" setups will have a better idea...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
try online diesel shops...or maybe geoff from full-race or stan from fast-turbo.com....im sure both having seen 4" setups will have a better idea...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool, thanks.
try online diesel shops...or maybe geoff from full-race or stan from fast-turbo.com....im sure both having seen 4" setups will have a better idea...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Cool, thanks.
FYI, Bullseye has the T3 input flange housings on sale right now... Anyone that has a 16cm^2 HX35 or a HX40 should jump on that ****! I don't wanna talk about prices and get our excellent thread locked, but suffice it to say it's about 1/3 less than what they usually sell them for. I'm probably going to pick one up because the smaller A/R will suit my needs far better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI, Bullseye has the T3 input flange housings on sale right now... Anyone that has a 16cm^2 HX35 or a HX40 should jump on that ****! I don't wanna talk about prices and get our excellent thread locked, but suffice it to say it's about 1/3 less than what they usually sell them for. I'm probably going to pick one up because the smaller A/R will suit my needs far better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much power do you suppose a hx35/bullseye combo is good for?
How much power do you suppose a hx35/bullseye combo is good for?


