Holset users unite!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: casper, wyo
Re: Holset users unite!
That's a grey area with Holsets. Some are component balanced and won't need to be rebalanced, others were balances as an assembly and must be rebalanced.
Either way I strongly suggest you have it rebalanced to remove any doubt. I'll try and find the HE351VE rebuild manual and see what it says.
Either way I strongly suggest you have it rebalanced to remove any doubt. I'll try and find the HE351VE rebuild manual and see what it says.
http://www.holset.co.uk/partsservice...Data_Sheet.pdf
Cummins Turbo Technologies -> Parts & Service -> Your Holset Turbocharger -> Service Literature -> Service Repair Manuals
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Holset users unite!
I think you mean 12 point lol.
See my HE351VE has a 12 point compressor lock nut and shows signs of material removal for the purposes of balancing on both the compressor wheel and turbine shaft. The weird thing is very little material was removed from the compressor wheel, an area of only 5.5mm x 3mm that's only about .13-.15mm in depth. That's only a few tenths of a gram in terms of balance so either this wheel casting happened to near perfect in terms of 0 balance or this unit was assembly balanced as a considerably large area was removed from the turbine shaft nut.
The way I was taught turbochargers was always have a unit rebalanced after assembly or wheel replacement, even if the compressor wheel was 0 balanced as it removes all doubt and ensures turbocharger longevity. Also though it sounds stupid and minimal something as small as a new shaft lock nut can have enough weight on one side to throw a cartridge out of balance.
You have to remember that traditional balance specifications are only half a GRAM @ 50,000rpm
See my HE351VE has a 12 point compressor lock nut and shows signs of material removal for the purposes of balancing on both the compressor wheel and turbine shaft. The weird thing is very little material was removed from the compressor wheel, an area of only 5.5mm x 3mm that's only about .13-.15mm in depth. That's only a few tenths of a gram in terms of balance so either this wheel casting happened to near perfect in terms of 0 balance or this unit was assembly balanced as a considerably large area was removed from the turbine shaft nut.
The way I was taught turbochargers was always have a unit rebalanced after assembly or wheel replacement, even if the compressor wheel was 0 balanced as it removes all doubt and ensures turbocharger longevity. Also though it sounds stupid and minimal something as small as a new shaft lock nut can have enough weight on one side to throw a cartridge out of balance.
You have to remember that traditional balance specifications are only half a GRAM @ 50,000rpm
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Holset users unite!
Any local turbo diesel shops tend to do balancing in house. However unless they are a main cummins service shop they won't have a VSR machine, only a strobe light wheel balancer deal that balances the turbine shaft and compressor wheel as an assembly outside of the CHRA
I know Pure Turbo has both standard balancers and access to a VSR rig, typically if you ask nicely they'll balance your turbo even if you assembled it. Prices IIRC, at least what I was quoted was something like 80 for standard balancing and around 125-130 for VSR balancing.
I know Pure Turbo has both standard balancers and access to a VSR rig, typically if you ask nicely they'll balance your turbo even if you assembled it. Prices IIRC, at least what I was quoted was something like 80 for standard balancing and around 125-130 for VSR balancing.
Re: Holset users unite!
My local guy says he can balance, but I know it's not a VSR.
Said to bring the assembly like you said...wheels outside of housings.
Never asked for a firm price.
I think I got lucky with my small H1c and marked the parts that weren't already, and carefully aligned them upon re-torque.
Only cleaned, and rebuilt with genuine Holset kit, original wheels tho.
Used an in.lb. torque wrench, trying not to pull to side.
Took seven tries to get the comp. wheel to end up where it needed to be.
It moves when cinching down.
Said to bring the assembly like you said...wheels outside of housings.
Never asked for a firm price.
I think I got lucky with my small H1c and marked the parts that weren't already, and carefully aligned them upon re-torque.
Only cleaned, and rebuilt with genuine Holset kit, original wheels tho.
Used an in.lb. torque wrench, trying not to pull to side.
Took seven tries to get the comp. wheel to end up where it needed to be.
It moves when cinching down.
Re: Holset users unite!
Any local turbo diesel shops tend to do balancing in house. However unless they are a main cummins service shop they won't have a VSR machine, only a strobe light wheel balancer deal that balances the turbine shaft and compressor wheel as an assembly outside of the CHRA
I know Pure Turbo has both standard balancers and access to a VSR rig, typically if you ask nicely they'll balance your turbo even if you assembled it. Prices IIRC, at least what I was quoted was something like 80 for standard balancing and around 125-130 for VSR balancing.
I know Pure Turbo has both standard balancers and access to a VSR rig, typically if you ask nicely they'll balance your turbo even if you assembled it. Prices IIRC, at least what I was quoted was something like 80 for standard balancing and around 125-130 for VSR balancing.
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Holset users unite!
Yea I mean for standard journal bearing CHRAs the strobe light balancers work (I don't even know what to call them lol).
Most of the modern ones have a load cell, camera that watches the wheel, and software that shows where the imbalance is just like a VSR rig, it just isn't as hyper-precise. The new ones are actually pretty cool, the camera looks for the white (or other contrasting paint mark) on the compressor wheel and tells the software that the mark is the 0/360 degree mark and then the software via counting rpm can use that index mark to indicate where and on what side of the wheel (hub or back side) and how much material to remove. It uses a similar process for the turbine wheel although since most turbine wheels are already 0 balanced as a component it's usually only the compressor wheel and/or shaft nut that has to have material removed.
I've even seen a few people use the balancing setups used for model airplane props to balance compressor wheels. It floats the wheel/prop on ball bearings and gravity pulls the heavy side down, remove very minute mounts of material until the wheel doesn't settle to one point and technically the wheel is 0 balanced. It's obviously not as precise but the turbochargers I've seen assemble with this method seem to survive just fine. People have also used the same method for turbine shafts. This method is also very popular and prevalent with people who build their own small scale jet turbine engines using commercial/custom wheels and they spin up to almost 200,000rpm and stay alive.
With ball bearing CHRAs and their tighter tolerances the VSR method is the only way to balance them. Granted with the removal of the thrust bearing, which is the Achilles heel of journal bearing turbochargers, dual ball bearing CHRAs are much more robust in terms of the thrust loads they can withstand such as compressor surge. Lately I've noticed that the majority of Japanese tuners using Garrett BB CHRAs aren't running blow off valves, regardless of how the vehicle is used (D1, FormulaD Japana, JGTC, Drag, Drift ((all the way from grassroots to professionals)), Super Taikyu, Time Attack, Super Lap Battle, and private track day cars) are all running without BOVs and so far reports indicate that unless the turbocharger just had a lot of miles or age, an oiling issue, or FOD, that properly maintained setups aren't suffering failures from surge from no BOV.
I'm friends with a lot of the big Japanese tuners and drivers (Tarzan Yamada, Daigo Saito, Robbie Nishida, Michi Takatori, Masato Kawabata, Yuki Oshima, Taka Aono, Hiro Sumida, Keisuke Takeuchi, Toshiki Yoshioka, Max Orido, Yuki Inaoka, etc) and they don't run BOVs on any of their personal cars, missile toys, or competition cars. Most of these guys are running Garrett/HKS BB CHRAs or genuine MHI units (I've never seen one Japanese tuner run precision lololol) and based on my talks with them and others between my iffy translation, crappy Pidgin, and broken english plus what others familiar with the Japanese "way" have said is that basically the Japanese view BOVs as an extra part to tune and fail plus I believe a good bit of it has to do with their driving style and way of building cars where simple and functional is best.
I'm seeing this trend start to carry over to the US, mainly in competition drift cars (most of which where built in Japan or here by a Japanese tuner) as well as Time Attack cars.
Sort of makes you wonder right?
I know a few people running Holsets without any sort of blow off valve without issue. Granted Holsets were designed with a fairly rugged and robust thrust bearing assembly, especially in comparison to your typical Garrett or similar journal bearing turbocharger. However most of that comes back to the original application they were engineered for. Both the light truck and commercial truck Holsets were designed with 500,000 mile intended service lives, on a turbo diesel much of which is spent in positive pressure in addition to running high pressure ratios. a typical modern VGT turbo diesel is only in vacuum at ilde and decel and under the slightest throttle inputs but 99% of the time they are making positive pressure. A large commercial single application can run up to 60psi and people running compound setups on street trucks can run in excess of 100psi. So obviously they have to be durable. The one thing that does help their longevity, and makes them so responsive on gasoline engines, is that diesel exhaust is slow and cold in relation to gasoline engines which puts far less stress on critical components. It also means the turbine wheels have to be very efficient to get proper turbine performance on a diesel application. This turbine efficiency is why your typical properly setup holset on a gasoline application is slightly more responsive than other gasoline oriented turbochargers of similar size.
Part of me wants to try the Japanese way on one of my setups. If the turbo goes pop I'll just rebuild it lol. I may have found a way to wind up running my HE351VE on the accord so who knows.
Most of the modern ones have a load cell, camera that watches the wheel, and software that shows where the imbalance is just like a VSR rig, it just isn't as hyper-precise. The new ones are actually pretty cool, the camera looks for the white (or other contrasting paint mark) on the compressor wheel and tells the software that the mark is the 0/360 degree mark and then the software via counting rpm can use that index mark to indicate where and on what side of the wheel (hub or back side) and how much material to remove. It uses a similar process for the turbine wheel although since most turbine wheels are already 0 balanced as a component it's usually only the compressor wheel and/or shaft nut that has to have material removed.
I've even seen a few people use the balancing setups used for model airplane props to balance compressor wheels. It floats the wheel/prop on ball bearings and gravity pulls the heavy side down, remove very minute mounts of material until the wheel doesn't settle to one point and technically the wheel is 0 balanced. It's obviously not as precise but the turbochargers I've seen assemble with this method seem to survive just fine. People have also used the same method for turbine shafts. This method is also very popular and prevalent with people who build their own small scale jet turbine engines using commercial/custom wheels and they spin up to almost 200,000rpm and stay alive.
With ball bearing CHRAs and their tighter tolerances the VSR method is the only way to balance them. Granted with the removal of the thrust bearing, which is the Achilles heel of journal bearing turbochargers, dual ball bearing CHRAs are much more robust in terms of the thrust loads they can withstand such as compressor surge. Lately I've noticed that the majority of Japanese tuners using Garrett BB CHRAs aren't running blow off valves, regardless of how the vehicle is used (D1, FormulaD Japana, JGTC, Drag, Drift ((all the way from grassroots to professionals)), Super Taikyu, Time Attack, Super Lap Battle, and private track day cars) are all running without BOVs and so far reports indicate that unless the turbocharger just had a lot of miles or age, an oiling issue, or FOD, that properly maintained setups aren't suffering failures from surge from no BOV.
I'm friends with a lot of the big Japanese tuners and drivers (Tarzan Yamada, Daigo Saito, Robbie Nishida, Michi Takatori, Masato Kawabata, Yuki Oshima, Taka Aono, Hiro Sumida, Keisuke Takeuchi, Toshiki Yoshioka, Max Orido, Yuki Inaoka, etc) and they don't run BOVs on any of their personal cars, missile toys, or competition cars. Most of these guys are running Garrett/HKS BB CHRAs or genuine MHI units (I've never seen one Japanese tuner run precision lololol) and based on my talks with them and others between my iffy translation, crappy Pidgin, and broken english plus what others familiar with the Japanese "way" have said is that basically the Japanese view BOVs as an extra part to tune and fail plus I believe a good bit of it has to do with their driving style and way of building cars where simple and functional is best.
I'm seeing this trend start to carry over to the US, mainly in competition drift cars (most of which where built in Japan or here by a Japanese tuner) as well as Time Attack cars.
Sort of makes you wonder right?
I know a few people running Holsets without any sort of blow off valve without issue. Granted Holsets were designed with a fairly rugged and robust thrust bearing assembly, especially in comparison to your typical Garrett or similar journal bearing turbocharger. However most of that comes back to the original application they were engineered for. Both the light truck and commercial truck Holsets were designed with 500,000 mile intended service lives, on a turbo diesel much of which is spent in positive pressure in addition to running high pressure ratios. a typical modern VGT turbo diesel is only in vacuum at ilde and decel and under the slightest throttle inputs but 99% of the time they are making positive pressure. A large commercial single application can run up to 60psi and people running compound setups on street trucks can run in excess of 100psi. So obviously they have to be durable. The one thing that does help their longevity, and makes them so responsive on gasoline engines, is that diesel exhaust is slow and cold in relation to gasoline engines which puts far less stress on critical components. It also means the turbine wheels have to be very efficient to get proper turbine performance on a diesel application. This turbine efficiency is why your typical properly setup holset on a gasoline application is slightly more responsive than other gasoline oriented turbochargers of similar size.
Part of me wants to try the Japanese way on one of my setups. If the turbo goes pop I'll just rebuild it lol. I may have found a way to wind up running my HE351VE on the accord so who knows.
Re: Holset users unite!
Yea I mean for standard journal bearing CHRAs the strobe light balancers work (I don't even know what to call them lol).
Most of the modern ones have a load cell, camera that watches the wheel, and software that shows where the imbalance is just like a VSR rig, it just isn't as hyper-precise. The new ones are actually pretty cool, the camera looks for the white (or other contrasting paint mark) on the compressor wheel and tells the software that the mark is the 0/360 degree mark and then the software via counting rpm can use that index mark to indicate where and on what side of the wheel (hub or back side) and how much material to remove. It uses a similar process for the turbine wheel although since most turbine wheels are already 0 balanced as a component it's usually only the compressor wheel and/or shaft nut that has to have material removed.
I've even seen a few people use the balancing setups used for model airplane props to balance compressor wheels. It floats the wheel/prop on ball bearings and gravity pulls the heavy side down, remove very minute mounts of material until the wheel doesn't settle to one point and technically the wheel is 0 balanced. It's obviously not as precise but the turbochargers I've seen assemble with this method seem to survive just fine. People have also used the same method for turbine shafts. This method is also very popular and prevalent with people who build their own small scale jet turbine engines using commercial/custom wheels and they spin up to almost 200,000rpm and stay alive.
With ball bearing CHRAs and their tighter tolerances the VSR method is the only way to balance them. Granted with the removal of the thrust bearing, which is the Achilles heel of journal bearing turbochargers, dual ball bearing CHRAs are much more robust in terms of the thrust loads they can withstand such as compressor surge. Lately I've noticed that the majority of Japanese tuners using Garrett BB CHRAs aren't running blow off valves, regardless of how the vehicle is used (D1, FormulaD Japana, JGTC, Drag, Drift ((all the way from grassroots to professionals)), Super Taikyu, Time Attack, Super Lap Battle, and private track day cars) are all running without BOVs and so far reports indicate that unless the turbocharger just had a lot of miles or age, an oiling issue, or FOD, that properly maintained setups aren't suffering failures from surge from no BOV.
I'm friends with a lot of the big Japanese tuners and drivers (Tarzan Yamada, Daigo Saito, Robbie Nishida, Michi Takatori, Masato Kawabata, Yuki Oshima, Taka Aono, Hiro Sumida, Keisuke Takeuchi, Toshiki Yoshioka, Max Orido, Yuki Inaoka, etc) and they don't run BOVs on any of their personal cars, missile toys, or competition cars. Most of these guys are running Garrett/HKS BB CHRAs or genuine MHI units (I've never seen one Japanese tuner run precision lololol) and based on my talks with them and others between my iffy translation, crappy Pidgin, and broken english plus what others familiar with the Japanese "way" have said is that basically the Japanese view BOVs as an extra part to tune and fail plus I believe a good bit of it has to do with their driving style and way of building cars where simple and functional is best.
I'm seeing this trend start to carry over to the US, mainly in competition drift cars (most of which where built in Japan or here by a Japanese tuner) as well as Time Attack cars.
Sort of makes you wonder right?
Most of the modern ones have a load cell, camera that watches the wheel, and software that shows where the imbalance is just like a VSR rig, it just isn't as hyper-precise. The new ones are actually pretty cool, the camera looks for the white (or other contrasting paint mark) on the compressor wheel and tells the software that the mark is the 0/360 degree mark and then the software via counting rpm can use that index mark to indicate where and on what side of the wheel (hub or back side) and how much material to remove. It uses a similar process for the turbine wheel although since most turbine wheels are already 0 balanced as a component it's usually only the compressor wheel and/or shaft nut that has to have material removed.
I've even seen a few people use the balancing setups used for model airplane props to balance compressor wheels. It floats the wheel/prop on ball bearings and gravity pulls the heavy side down, remove very minute mounts of material until the wheel doesn't settle to one point and technically the wheel is 0 balanced. It's obviously not as precise but the turbochargers I've seen assemble with this method seem to survive just fine. People have also used the same method for turbine shafts. This method is also very popular and prevalent with people who build their own small scale jet turbine engines using commercial/custom wheels and they spin up to almost 200,000rpm and stay alive.
With ball bearing CHRAs and their tighter tolerances the VSR method is the only way to balance them. Granted with the removal of the thrust bearing, which is the Achilles heel of journal bearing turbochargers, dual ball bearing CHRAs are much more robust in terms of the thrust loads they can withstand such as compressor surge. Lately I've noticed that the majority of Japanese tuners using Garrett BB CHRAs aren't running blow off valves, regardless of how the vehicle is used (D1, FormulaD Japana, JGTC, Drag, Drift ((all the way from grassroots to professionals)), Super Taikyu, Time Attack, Super Lap Battle, and private track day cars) are all running without BOVs and so far reports indicate that unless the turbocharger just had a lot of miles or age, an oiling issue, or FOD, that properly maintained setups aren't suffering failures from surge from no BOV.
I'm friends with a lot of the big Japanese tuners and drivers (Tarzan Yamada, Daigo Saito, Robbie Nishida, Michi Takatori, Masato Kawabata, Yuki Oshima, Taka Aono, Hiro Sumida, Keisuke Takeuchi, Toshiki Yoshioka, Max Orido, Yuki Inaoka, etc) and they don't run BOVs on any of their personal cars, missile toys, or competition cars. Most of these guys are running Garrett/HKS BB CHRAs or genuine MHI units (I've never seen one Japanese tuner run precision lololol) and based on my talks with them and others between my iffy translation, crappy Pidgin, and broken english plus what others familiar with the Japanese "way" have said is that basically the Japanese view BOVs as an extra part to tune and fail plus I believe a good bit of it has to do with their driving style and way of building cars where simple and functional is best.
I'm seeing this trend start to carry over to the US, mainly in competition drift cars (most of which where built in Japan or here by a Japanese tuner) as well as Time Attack cars.
Sort of makes you wonder right?
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: Holset users unite!
Orido is all about Harley's lately haha but he has this seriously sexy MKIV Supra I would give a kidney and kill my first born for. The thing I like most about it is how understated it is. Nothing flashy, mostly OEM body panels with key aero enhancements, and all of the right parts in the right places.
A few of the street cars I've seen belonging to a few are recirculated but I made it a point to ask about BOVs specifically and they all said the majority don't run one. About the only things I saw recirculated were OEM oriented setups, other small turbo setups have atmospheric BOVs but the 20G and larger setups didn't run one at all.
Admittedly the Japanese have always had their weird ways. Hell the government just approved for the military to fight on foreign soil for the first time since WW2. For some reason the thought of a Japanese guy in desert camo seems weird to me lol.
A few of the street cars I've seen belonging to a few are recirculated but I made it a point to ask about BOVs specifically and they all said the majority don't run one. About the only things I saw recirculated were OEM oriented setups, other small turbo setups have atmospheric BOVs but the 20G and larger setups didn't run one at all.
Admittedly the Japanese have always had their weird ways. Hell the government just approved for the military to fight on foreign soil for the first time since WW2. For some reason the thought of a Japanese guy in desert camo seems weird to me lol.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 954
Likes: 2
From: Seattle
Re: Holset users unite!
@@@@@@@@@WTB - HX35 7 BLADE@@@@@@@@@@
condition does not matter, as long as the bearing cartridge, and housings are intact.
I am considering a bae cast 62mm compressor wheel on a hx35 with a 64x70 turbine wheel and a 12cm2 housing. Will be using on a b18b1 with a built head, crower 404s, 81mm, 10:1 compression. shooting for as much power with 92 octane (~20 psi). Hoping for about ~430whp.
If I get a good deal on a hx35, I'll spend the 50$ extra and get a billet wheel.
condition does not matter, as long as the bearing cartridge, and housings are intact.
I am considering a bae cast 62mm compressor wheel on a hx35 with a 64x70 turbine wheel and a 12cm2 housing. Will be using on a b18b1 with a built head, crower 404s, 81mm, 10:1 compression. shooting for as much power with 92 octane (~20 psi). Hoping for about ~430whp.
If I get a good deal on a hx35, I'll spend the 50$ extra and get a billet wheel.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 1
From: Southern Oregon
Re: Holset users unite!
@@@@@@@@@WTB - HX35 7 BLADE@@@@@@@@@@
condition does not matter, as long as the bearing cartridge, and housings are intact.
I am considering a bae cast 62mm compressor wheel on a hx35 with a 64x70 turbine wheel and a 12cm2 housing. Will be using on a b18b1 with a built head, crower 404s, 81mm, 10:1 compression. shooting for as much power with 92 octane (~20 psi). Hoping for about ~430whp.
If I get a good deal on a hx35, I'll spend the 50$ extra and get a billet wheel.
condition does not matter, as long as the bearing cartridge, and housings are intact.
I am considering a bae cast 62mm compressor wheel on a hx35 with a 64x70 turbine wheel and a 12cm2 housing. Will be using on a b18b1 with a built head, crower 404s, 81mm, 10:1 compression. shooting for as much power with 92 octane (~20 psi). Hoping for about ~430whp.
If I get a good deal on a hx35, I'll spend the 50$ extra and get a billet wheel.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 954
Likes: 2
From: Seattle
Re: Holset users unite!
QFT. I even sold my sleeved block..
I had a 362whp b18b1 a couple years ago, and I simply loved it. Loved the torque curve. I like the quick power compared to vtec.
(Ive NEVER driven a vtec car, only built motors)
another reason why I'm going non vtec again, is because I don't have a burning sensation for 500whp+ anymore.
I am selling a gsr head I have with itr internals. I just bought a bare head with new in box dual valve springs, crower 404s, cam gears, blox intake manifold.
Can't decide whether or not to send a block to CSS, fill it with MOROSO block filler (seriously considering since it looks pretty straight forward) Or just run stock sleeves. Going to run eagle rods, gsr style compression pistons.
I am looking to piece together a hx35 right now. I know the hx40 comp wheel will perform well (~69lbs min) but I want a bit more. I want to compare to a 6262, which is why I want to run a 62mm wheel. Ive even consider a s366... but a t4 .88 ar won't perform the best. There is a dyno sheet I saw of a 1.8L, 9:1 compression, s366 with a .70 ar, get full boost around 6k. So with the larger housing, I will spool slower, so can't go with that, I wish I could, because 16-20 psi on a s366... that is near 500whp on a built b18b1.
Wantboost, what do you think about a 62mm comp wheel with a hx35 64x70 turbine shaft with a 12cm2? I don't plan to boost it over 20lbs (unless I decide to run e85 in the future) I want to get as much power as possible on 92 octane, and I'm pretty sure with the mods I listed, I can hit around 430-450whp (I am comparing my setup to lightningxx's old 455whp setup, 84mm, 9:1 compression, built head, precision 6262) If you don't mind chatting about turbos from time to time, and don't mind questions, feel free to message me on facebook (Travis mcgleno)
(Ive NEVER driven a vtec car, only built motors)
another reason why I'm going non vtec again, is because I don't have a burning sensation for 500whp+ anymore.
I am selling a gsr head I have with itr internals. I just bought a bare head with new in box dual valve springs, crower 404s, cam gears, blox intake manifold.
Can't decide whether or not to send a block to CSS, fill it with MOROSO block filler (seriously considering since it looks pretty straight forward) Or just run stock sleeves. Going to run eagle rods, gsr style compression pistons.
I am looking to piece together a hx35 right now. I know the hx40 comp wheel will perform well (~69lbs min) but I want a bit more. I want to compare to a 6262, which is why I want to run a 62mm wheel. Ive even consider a s366... but a t4 .88 ar won't perform the best. There is a dyno sheet I saw of a 1.8L, 9:1 compression, s366 with a .70 ar, get full boost around 6k. So with the larger housing, I will spool slower, so can't go with that, I wish I could, because 16-20 psi on a s366... that is near 500whp on a built b18b1.
Wantboost, what do you think about a 62mm comp wheel with a hx35 64x70 turbine shaft with a 12cm2? I don't plan to boost it over 20lbs (unless I decide to run e85 in the future) I want to get as much power as possible on 92 octane, and I'm pretty sure with the mods I listed, I can hit around 430-450whp (I am comparing my setup to lightningxx's old 455whp setup, 84mm, 9:1 compression, built head, precision 6262) If you don't mind chatting about turbos from time to time, and don't mind questions, feel free to message me on facebook (Travis mcgleno)
Re: Holset users unite!
QFT. I even sold my sleeved block..
I had a 362whp b18b1 a couple years ago, and I simply loved it. Loved the torque curve. I like the quick power compared to vtec.
(Ive NEVER driven a vtec car, only built motors)
another reason why I'm going non vtec again, is because I don't have a burning sensation for 500whp+ anymore.
I am selling a gsr head I have with itr internals. I just bought a bare head with new in box dual valve springs, crower 404s, cam gears, blox intake manifold.
Can't decide whether or not to send a block to CSS, fill it with MOROSO block filler (seriously considering since it looks pretty straight forward) Or just run stock sleeves. Going to run eagle rods, gsr style compression pistons.
I am looking to piece together a hx35 right now. I know the hx40 comp wheel will perform well (~ min) but I want a bit more. I want to compare to a 6262, which is why I want to run a 62mm wheel.
Wantboost, what do you think about a 62mm comp wheel with a hx35 64x70 turbine shaft with a 12cm2? I don't plan to boost it over* (unless I decide to run e85 in the future) I want to get as much power as possible on 92 octane, and I'm pretty sure with the mods I listed, I can hit around 430-450whp (I am comparing my setup to lightningxx's old 455whp setup, 84mm, 9:1 compression, built head, precision 6262)
I had a 362whp b18b1 a couple years ago, and I simply loved it. Loved the torque curve. I like the quick power compared to vtec.
(Ive NEVER driven a vtec car, only built motors)
another reason why I'm going non vtec again, is because I don't have a burning sensation for 500whp+ anymore.
I am selling a gsr head I have with itr internals. I just bought a bare head with new in box dual valve springs, crower 404s, cam gears, blox intake manifold.
Can't decide whether or not to send a block to CSS, fill it with MOROSO block filler (seriously considering since it looks pretty straight forward) Or just run stock sleeves. Going to run eagle rods, gsr style compression pistons.
I am looking to piece together a hx35 right now. I know the hx40 comp wheel will perform well (~ min) but I want a bit more. I want to compare to a 6262, which is why I want to run a 62mm wheel.
Wantboost, what do you think about a 62mm comp wheel with a hx35 64x70 turbine shaft with a 12cm2? I don't plan to boost it over* (unless I decide to run e85 in the future) I want to get as much power as possible on 92 octane, and I'm pretty sure with the mods I listed, I can hit around 430-450whp (I am comparing my setup to lightningxx's old 455whp setup, 84mm, 9:1 compression, built head, precision 6262)
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 954
Likes: 2
From: Seattle
Re: Holset users unite!
I see what you're trying to do, but, unfortunately, you can't compare the two systems. You're only looking at compressor wheel, and not exhaust wheel flow rates. That turbine wheels are sooooo different, that you'll see varying results. (Lighteningteg also used a Reaper, and not a 6262. Different exhaust wheel being used there, too.)
My issue is that hx40's turbine housings are typically massive and not a good match for my setup (as far as I know, 18cm2 housings are massive, which is the most common)
I know the hx40 turbine wheel is a much better match for the 62mm compressor wheel. Maybe I could pay this place to machine a hx35 12cm2 turbine hx40 turbine wheel, whatcha think about that? More $ than I wanted to spend, but could be a lot more expensive.
But... if I see myself using a hx40 shaft/wheel... I am tempted to just throw on a 67mm comp wheel, but Id have a feeling I would need a larger turbine wheel perhaps?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 954
Likes: 2
From: Seattle
Re: Holset users unite!
Ian at turbo lab confirmed I can put a 67mm wheel into a hx35 housing (of course bored out) and I can use a hx40 turbine shaft/wheel with a hx35 12cm2 (of course bored out as well)
his 67mm billet wheel weighs the same as a cast hx40 wheel, he said some people said it spools faster than a stock hx40, which is easily to believe.
the million dollar question, should I build this turbo? I have seen a speedo of a hx40 on a b18c4 (on youtube) and it spools around ~5500-6k rpms, which is okay with me on a non vtec (redline about 8400)
thoughts? wantboost?
his 67mm billet wheel weighs the same as a cast hx40 wheel, he said some people said it spools faster than a stock hx40, which is easily to believe.
the million dollar question, should I build this turbo? I have seen a speedo of a hx40 on a b18c4 (on youtube) and it spools around ~5500-6k rpms, which is okay with me on a non vtec (redline about 8400)
thoughts? wantboost?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 1
From: Southern Oregon
Re: Holset users unite!
Ian at turbo lab confirmed I can put a 67mm wheel into a hx35 housing (of course bored out) and I can use a hx40 turbine shaft/wheel with a hx35 12cm2 (of course bored out as well)
his 67mm billet wheel weighs the same as a cast hx40 wheel, he said some people said it spools faster than a stock hx40, which is easily to believe.
the million dollar question, should I build this turbo? I have seen a speedo of a hx40 on a b18c4 (on youtube) and it spools around ~5500-6k rpms, which is okay with me on a non vtec (redline about 8400)
thoughts? wantboost?
his 67mm billet wheel weighs the same as a cast hx40 wheel, he said some people said it spools faster than a stock hx40, which is easily to believe.
the million dollar question, should I build this turbo? I have seen a speedo of a hx40 on a b18c4 (on youtube) and it spools around ~5500-6k rpms, which is okay with me on a non vtec (redline about 8400)
thoughts? wantboost?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 954
Likes: 2
From: Seattle
Re: Holset users unite!
Shodan, can you machine turbine and compressor housings?
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