wow, that looks really good. Perfect height - no gap, no lower, no crazy camber - even tire paint works really well

Debated going K, but cant pull the trigger...

 

aren't we all lol

 

Thanks guys! I intend to track this car and its driven pretty aggressively on some twisty back roads as well. No time for "stance" and rubbing my fenders all to hell, haha!

Ive always wanted to try out the tire paint, I was worried my car wouldnt be aggressive enough to justify it. However, i think the paint gave the car that perfect touch of aggressiveness, that says "this car means business if I want it to!"

 

haha truth! I was going to K until I decided to rebuild my B18-R. Now Im pretty content with the power, with some cams it should be pretty quick.

 

I have debated it...until I smoked a bunch of K-series cars at last years FF battle. Seat time is cheaper than a k-swap and will make me faster.

 

Thats exactly what Im banking on!

I drove one of my friends K20 crx at several hpde weekends, so I have a good feel for the speed. Once I got my B18-R running in my car and ran it through the rpms, I knew it wasnt far off the pace for acceleration. Around the track, I think the extra power of the k20 will make less of a difference with more improvement in my driving.

FWIW, the K20 CRX made 215whp on a dynojet. My car made 186whp on an unknown dyno just before I rebuilt it. I would expect the new engine is around 185-190whp.

 

Anyone know what other non-hood-or-hatch body/interior panels were made in Carbon for the CRX? I'll be picking up a cowl and the fuel pump cover, but am wondering if there's anything else I should add to my list (and then cross off).

I got the carbon door sills in the mail today (Specialty Carbon).

 

Imagine what you would do with a K though...

 

Definitely, I mostly went for a K because the original B16A driveline in my car was a pile of junk and needed a lot of money spent on it to make it reliable on track. So rather than spend all that money on an old motor I decided to update. And it seems like B series parts aren't as cheap or plentiful over here in Australia as they are there in the US.

Picture of an EF9 I took at World Time Attack last year:

 

Okay you guys got me convinced. But i just rebuilt my D so...I'd actually be happy with finding an original JRSC for it. I'd prolly only do a B swap if i got it dirt cheap. But i'd still have to BAR ref it.

Presidential, what size, offset and tire size are you running? I'm running 15x7 et 35 which is just about perfect, but I think I need to add just a little more camber in the rear...

sxtswede - that carbon is nice - in a perfect world, I'd replace all of my plastic pieces with CF - from the door molding/trim, etc on - its getting hard to find the plastics anymore

 

My wheels are 15x6.5 +35, so pretty much the same as yours, just .25" narrower on each side. My rear fenders are not rolled, but I did have to roll the front. I will roll the rear also before the car hits the track because it is very close.

 

well I'm having to drop more $$$ in my engine. my own fault. got it rebuilt last year but I know I have to get forged rods and pistons if I want it to be reliable on the track with the turbo already have Eagle rods, now just trying to figure out the pistons. It's a toss up between Arias, Endyne Roller-Wave pistons, and the cheaper Supertech pistons. either way, I'm spending too much keeping the compression the same so I can stay around the 300whp mark

K-series looks so tempting at times like this, but there's no way my whole engine/turbo set-up would sell for what it's worth

 

yeah, its a tough battle..haha.

 

I never rolled the rears on my CRX and have been fine with 15x7's (+35) with 205 Nitto NT01s. It depends on your alignment specs, but you might be okay. I run -2.8 in the rear. No rubbing at all.

 

Ha! Agreed. But I think there is a point of diminishing returns with these cars...at least in my opinion. I'll always keep my CRX and coupe, but as soon as my truck is paid off, it's time to build an additional weekend/track toy.

 

I have to agree - unless you have specific collector car/tuner car coverage from hagerty or another company - it gets hard to put too much into these cars as they still are high theft prone items.

Good to know on the tire wheel size. I'm using 195/50/15's now and its real close if I go lower - but I'd like to run my 205's. I think I def need more camber. On my previous CRX I had 15x7 et 30 with 205's, much lower and all I needed was a small roll to the fender.

 

My ef has a dohc zc with a JRSC on it. If i can up the boost and hit 160-180 whp i think that would keep me happy for a long time and prevent me from going B. If i do hit those numbers the next step would only be a K but i dont see that happening for a very long time cause of the cost.

 

Niiice!! Man I wish our smog laws were more lax here...

 

My car is around 185-190whp and very fun at around 2000lbs, it will be more than capable around the track.

 

i think i'm going to ditch my turbo kit this time. as Nick was saying about those "diminishing returns", i think i've reached it. if i was going to just drive it and take it to the drag strip occasionally, then wouldn't be a problem. i just want to put $900 in another engine rebuild and then another couple hundred for an oil cooler set-up for the track. i think i'm going to call it quits on it. see if i can find someone to trade me a momo steering wheel & hub and a header for the kit lol

 

It takes a lot of time, money, setup, sweat and tears to have a fast reliable turbo track car. Especially a Honda. Ive been trying to get my buddy to ditch his turbo on his 4dr EF since he put it on. Its awesome for those few pulls, buts its just a ton of problems 85% of the time.

 

Very true - especially pieced together kits. The only kit that I've ever seen do daily duty, stay reliable and actually get better smog was the Edelbrock kit Marauder had on his civic - D16Y8 i believe. He just recently sold it to Spade (the car with the original setup), and its still just as nice. But that was designed as a complete system from the get go.

if I dont do a B swap - I would consider doing a D16Y8 swap with that kit so I could still stay SOHC and keep my cable trans.

At the end of the day - simple is still easier to deal with on a regular basis.

Oh hey - do you guys know if it'll change my autox classing if I swap my rear drums to disc?

 

I'd say 15% of the time for me

not true as the majority of kits are pieced together. my car gave me zero issues on the track and auto-x. it's the longevity and the cost to make the engine stand up to constant abuse that's making me change my mind. if only the cost of the parts for these cars were as cheap as american car parts


who are you running with? check their rule book. most clubs have them available online

 

woa...this thread is going STRONG!

I love all the track talk.

I passed many ITRs and swapped cars last year with my NA non vtec d16 in my ITA crx.... Power only helps on track a lil bit!

 

i have my car up for trade, but i'm going to put the turbo kit up for sale. just enough for me to get another steering wheel and header if the turbo kit sells, then keeping the car