Because finding the rare parts for the sedans just means a walk to the salvage yard?

 

almost 7yrs out of date. if they ever update the site i'm sure they'll do something like that

yup. the trunk rack (see all the time at the junkyard), arm rest...can't think of anything else. of course there's the JDM seats, opt. console and front end. i like the sedan crowd, there's really no "rare" parts and don't have to worry about failing hatch struts lol

 

There are a few pieces I'd like to have such as the flush mount spoiler, but yes, there aren't many options and most can be found relatively easily.

 

Its actually flat black, might just keep it like that depending on how it looks

 

I like the wing - different. Overall i'm still trying to keep mine in the 90's era styling (when I had bought my first 91 Si new) - so no JDM exterior pieces...

On the sedans, do they have a auto belt delete option? - Actually you have the entire Rover catalog for the sedan, nothing good really, but its available...

Is there any reason to have rear lower control arms with matching bends in them? While swapping some parts this weekend - I see my rear's are longer than my friends 89 si, but mine have a bend like someone had tried to compensate for xtra length?

They're identical from what i can see, just odd to me.

While we're at it, what's the general consensus on rear lca's? Stock best? Recommendations on replacements...?

Thanks in advance...

 

Blu- The ctr trans has a 4.4 final drive. It is pretty short but a bit longer than a 4.7 ITR. Ideally I would prefer a JDM GSR with LSD however Hmotors has them on a waiting list. Later on I may change some of the internals, like a LS 5th and SF modified shift change assembly.

 

what about...JDM exterior parts from the 90's era? wish there was an option for deleting the auto seatbets. stock lca's with new or upgraded bushings work just as good as function7 if not better. unless you like the flashy looks or trying to get rid of unsprung weight.

GSR trans has become a hot commodity since the turbo guys have started recommending it as the best trans for boost

 

sorta... it's just about how many rpms & power you have too.

for drag racing, IMHO anything less than 375(ish) whp b series turbo i'd still rock at b16 trans.... with that said errbody makes it seem so easy to make more power so a lot of the new generation honda guys just want more power right off the bat.

 

$400 turbo kits and street tunes are where it's at

 

Its funny, because the JDM thing really is a more recent trend. Back when the EF's were still pretty new most of the JDM "style tuning" was mostly limited to clear corners, 1 piece headlights (integra's), city lights, fuba antenna's and SSR wheels.

One trend I'm not bringing back is the crazy lighting, lol - people had all sorts of colored lights everywhere, but before colored bulbs we used DJ lighting gels in dome lights, some people used them in the tails, reverse lights, etc.

I do however plan to run "ambers" lol. If you know these, I know you're really old school, lol.

When the EG's came out that was when the colored "race" wheels started popping up - red faces, blue faces, racing sparco's, etc... That was when more of the "race" look started to emerge...

I was 16 when I got my first civic si new in 91, so I'm kinda trying to keep to that overall look to that So Cal early 90's look. Clean, lowered, exhaust - simple - no front end swaps or jdm tails, etc.

 

man, i remember having one of those antennas lol. don't see anyone doing city lights anymore, guess hid's took their place

 

im tempted to do the city lights, I remember when people first did them, they drilled the housings and you'd have all sorts of water in the lights, the later kits had that ring to mount around the primary bulb...

oh and thanks for the tip on the lca's Adrian, I think I'm just gonna do oe lca's with new bushings. I need to replace my trailing arm bushings as well, thinking about using bearings there so I dont have to clock the bushings - any input on that one?

If anyone additional has input on the trailing arm bearings as well, chime in.

 

I am working on installing the Hard race RTA bushings on my project car. Cant give any feedback though as it wont be finished for a while.

I do have the energy suspension bushings in another EF and they are nice. No more noise than the rest of the car makes.

 

Adrian best way to do that is like we do on the 90/91 hatches and weld in a bracket up top.

Find a 88/89 sedan and rob parts or use eg belts.

I thought about doing that in my wagon.

 

i've read that you shouldn't use bearings as they should only be used in race applications or non-dd cars. i can't give any feedback on them

i used energy suspension bushing when i did my rta bushing. if they're making noise, i can't hear it. don't have to clock anything


that's what i'm using. i believe the Hardrace bushings are better than OEM

that's what I want to do. don't feel as safe on the track with these auto seatbelts

 

I was from so cal also back in these days! Many people these days would call what we did back then ricer. Back then there wasn't ricer. The only other style was low rider. I remember painted moldings were in. Now its oem to keep them black.

16 with a brand new si! Must be nice! When I was that age I loved CB7's. Rolling on 90-91 CRX si's were the shizz for hatches. Miss the old days.

 

Tcooper - do the hardrace RTA's need to be clocked or is it like Adrian's above? I really dont want to have to deal with clocking as I may change heights.

RBW - tempted to do the belts as well, just concerned with safety of it. Prolly still safer than door mounted, but just want to make sure done right, any tips?

Adrian - nice, didnt know that about the ES, may have to look into those.

HDSuper - Lol, yup, some crazy **** people did to stand out back then - and yeah, I was just thinking about the painted moldings/mirrors from back then, an easy way to make old tired moldings look new again, lol. Yeah, I had been working a while and had an old 80 Toyota Corolla I bought for my bday, but it kept breaking down, and since I worked late, mom talked me into selling the corolla and putting the money on a newer car, lol. Originally wanted a Prelude or a CRX, but they were to "sporty" for the insurance, and the Prelude was just to expensive, lol.

 

I have hardrace bearings, very good for racing but poor ride quality on the street. My whole car was converted to sphericals and shes a rough bitch on the streets.

 

I'm on Bilstein HD's with NS Race springs, but i dont think I can do the full sphericals. i still daily my car.

I need to fix and upgrade, but generally want to avoid having to clock bushings.

 

The hardrace are a hardened rubber. They look similar to factory Honda with more rubber. I am pretty sure they need clocked. I got the arms off today and taking them to be pressed in tommorow. I wont have the final ride height set until I order coilovers but wanted to get this part completed.

 

the only sphericals I may talk myself in to doing is the front LCA ones just to give me best chance of catching a 1.5 60ft cause i need all the help i can get ... lol

 

thanks for all the info guys, this helps a lot.

I wonder why someone doesnt make a hybrid type...Using a hard rubber compound like Hardrace/Muge.etc but with the shaft able to be inserted in the bushing and not have to be clocked like the ES busing above.

Best of both worlds right? Or am I missing something?

 

Just clock em dude lol its not that big of a deal. I may convert back to rubber one day just because my car still sees some street use

 

Here's my 88 sedan old main relay. A new one fixed the hard start when warm issue.
You can see the circle cracks around the solder joint.

 

And Rob out of left field, lol, jp - Yeah I heard thats a common issue, when i got my 91, i swapped mine before i realized my fuel pump was dead

jdm ae86 - If I clock em, and change the ride height, would I need to re-clock them again? How much difference in height would be okay?