Damnn hatch is overheating. Heater turned on during summer sucks.
Have to see whats going on with it. Fan is not coming on either. Maaaan.

 

^ Bleed the cooling system properly?

 

i love shipping. just about everything i sell is shipped. i know i'm going to make someones day when they see the that brown truck pull up

i have a friend in Wells that told me to make a list of the stuff i wanted and he'd see if can can get it for me. any ideas b/c i can't think of anything

 

I need to make a list of my massive collection.. got some flat rate boxes so I can see what will fit so I can just list stuff as a set price shipped. If you have a shipping connect its money.. but otherwise it can be a stressful process! I hate thinking something I cherish is getting thrown around by some guy... receive one bad package and the whole process is tainted now! haha

(not sure if I will actually do the quaife conversion just yet, just wanna have the rack in case!)

 

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaang, thanks guys! Let me know if you guys find the columns...especially you pandarex since you're still in so-cal right? I remember buying that dash from you. I'll hit you up if the others don't work out gnxpro since shipping will be cheaper from these two guys.

Again, thanks. EF thread comes through.


Ninja edit: DAN...no on the quaife...just get your car put together.

 

Hhaha.. Blu is the man! I dont even wanna tell you the deal he just hooked me up with on a DX rack.. I may not do the quaife just yet considering my si rack is all fresh and now I will need all new DX parts. but Yes, this thread comes through yet again!

Just done taking everything apart that I had put on.. I wanna re do the fuel entry and exit locations... and maybe some cleaner wiring. the oem connectors all over kill me!

Ill have to start sharing pictures

 

So I went to 3 places to get pipes powder coated, prices

$300
$150

And I went with

$75

HAHA How can the prices be so different! All the same thing! UGH, shop around people

 

If you dont have rear mounting pods - are there any easy ways to hook up rear speakers?

 

Haha, wow.. I had to do some shopping around when I got my suspension coated.. first guy wanted about double and seemed like I was bothering him! Second company does great work and only reason I didnt go to them first was b.c I thought they would be the expensive ones.. Ive gone back a few times since with bmx bikes and random things and they continue to have great service and prices. I shop around for everything!
-Always willing to pay a bit more for better service though.

 

went and got an alignment today

 

holy static -4 degrees of camber batman! Dang! Most I can get static is -3.1. And why so much toe in for the rear? High speed stability?

Not going to post my FS thread here, but there was talk of seat bases a while back. My wedge/recaro set-up for '88 CRX is for sale if anyone is interested.

 

Yeah I'm still in so-cal, plus my dad is drivin to nor-cal this weekend so I'll look for it so if you can use it you guys can meet up and give it to you.

 

dunno why so much camber...car isn't even that low. i just had him put it back to factory specs. dunno why it had so much rear toe

 

lol.. I should scan my sheet. static at 3.8 front, 6.9 rear ..

 

RSZero1- you can still mount speakers without the pods

You just need to cut the circle in the stock rear panel and use the metal clips and screws. As far as wiring I beleive its all inside the panel.

 

why did Honda use 5/16 hose for the fuel lines?! and why doesnt anyone seem to sell a -5an tube nut and sleeve?! This just makes me want to bend new hard lines in a more friendly size!

Positive note: Blu is sending the rack over and just a random purchase like that has given me more motivation to get going.
Cut the vapor line out of the car last night, was going over the electrical and really want to re-do it.. just so many connectors and wires that I no longer need.

Hard to not change plans as you build.. trying not to get too far off the game plan.

 

Hopefully, I remember to check back. But, Nick, what upper A arms do you have? On the "EG", I have Hardrace and they are very close to middle of the range which at my ride height is -3.5.

 

This. What's your goal with the fuel lines and brake lines? To not have them run inside the cabin like Ryan's CRX? Just curious what you're attempting to do. If you're running full interior, I'd leave all that stuff alone...

Still factory arms. I have the skunks just sitting, collecting dust. -3 has worked, but my NT01s would love some more camber...

 

Ahh. Yeah, I am 3.5 in the front and 2 in the rear. I just went to a square set up, 7s with 225/45 NT01s. I wanted to throw more camber at the rear with the 205s, but with the 225 the contact patch "looks" right. We will see how that outer shoulder does after this weekend. haha.

 

I run 3 all the way around with 225f/205r. With a bit of roll on those 7" wheels I bet you'll want to up to around 3 in the rear.

Have fun this weekend!

 

Not sure how Ryans is set up actually.. I have looked for pictures with his b series in there but have not found much. just a bunch from his K set-up and usually exterior shots, no real details. I dont mind having hard line in the cabin, I just dont want any connections.. just line running through is fine.

I will most likely leave the brake lines and prop alone for now.. running a new booster and master. I re did the lines, need to polish the fittings again as they get a little crummy over time. Eventually I will relocate it in the bay to just be cleaner. But yes, the goal is to keep all connections in the bay or under the car.
Fuel lines are fine with me in the cabin but I want to either reuse the hardline or run new hardline... (teflon lined an is 20$+ a foot) still not sure how I even feel about the bulkhead on the firewall v.s. just running the line through the wall with a grommet like OEM does it.
The only problem Im having with the oem line is the size of it right now, the locations I can deal with.. its finding a tube nut and sleeve for a 8mm line. I can use the "blue" -5an ones but then I will most likely run it to a bulkhead behind the firewall.

I will have a full interior but no heat, no vents or anything in the center except gauges that have their own harness... I have been going over the oem manual and looking at how everything is run.. Im realizing little things I can remove like seatbelt chime harness, radio wiring.... may try to remove the climate control stuff, washer harness, wiper motor... But also not sure if its a can of worms I want to open right now. its all neatly tied up.
Different standards as the build goes on is what slows me down the most. re-doing things I have already done b/c I now realize how I can improve or do it better.

 

Use a -6 to -5 reducer and then run -6 everywhere.
Ill give you my 2 cents.. I wish i would have never touched my fuel lines and left them as stock..

 

Thats the plan, leave the stock lines and just flare them to adapt to AN. Im just unsure if I should cut the line inside the car and run it to a bulkhead (to stick out the firewall) or leave it as it is sticking out through the grommet. Using the bulkhead gives me that one connection inside the car (which is what I wanted to avoid).. but thats the point of a bulkhead. I may just be a little over cautious, I have seen people set up like that, doesnt mean its right/safe though.

 

My beaters!