The Official EF Discussion Thread
K i logged back in for the first time in a year and i have a few questions..
i picked up a jspec SOHC Vtec ZC swap full swap but i need a couple things and i wanna know price and were to get them im sorry if this isnt the thread for these types of questions if not then please redirect me
1st: Harness: it came with a p28 and i need an obd1 harness i have the harness that plugs into all sensors now i need the harness that fills the gap in between that harness and the ECU? (understand?) the harness section i have came with the motor connected to the sensors now i need to connect those male/female ends to my ECU.. how much do u think that will cost to get the rest of the harness made? (please and thankyou)
2nd: It came with a hydro clutch i found the clutch reservoir for $30 now i need the hard lines that go from the reservoir to the master cylinder: price? and were can i get it from? website? junkyard off of a civic or other..? let me know all help is appreciated
3rd: i need the L mount located in front of the motor and the tranny mount to the left under the battery tray they are both needed on the motor the threaded holes are there for them i just need to know what car i can get them from this is all i need and my swap will be in and my EF hatch will be on the road again thanks for your help
i picked up a jspec SOHC Vtec ZC swap full swap but i need a couple things and i wanna know price and were to get them im sorry if this isnt the thread for these types of questions if not then please redirect me
1st: Harness: it came with a p28 and i need an obd1 harness i have the harness that plugs into all sensors now i need the harness that fills the gap in between that harness and the ECU? (understand?) the harness section i have came with the motor connected to the sensors now i need to connect those male/female ends to my ECU.. how much do u think that will cost to get the rest of the harness made? (please and thankyou)
2nd: It came with a hydro clutch i found the clutch reservoir for $30 now i need the hard lines that go from the reservoir to the master cylinder: price? and were can i get it from? website? junkyard off of a civic or other..? let me know all help is appreciated
3rd: i need the L mount located in front of the motor and the tranny mount to the left under the battery tray they are both needed on the motor the threaded holes are there for them i just need to know what car i can get them from this is all i need and my swap will be in and my EF hatch will be on the road again thanks for your help
Last edited by JoeyB1106; Jun 26, 2012 at 10:35 PM. Reason: adding more
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
A few pics from FF Battle. Dyno was successful, but I'm sure my numbers are super low...track portion was successful as I ran 3 of 5 sessions, but almost lost a wheel during the 4th session. Because of that, I didn't get to participate in the drag racing portion
We aren't supposed to know the results...but I have a feeling my track time will be very impressive 



We aren't supposed to know the results...but I have a feeling my track time will be very impressive 



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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
Well, out of no where...after my 3rd session I went to fill up gas and hear a knocking noise when I was on or off the gas pedal. A buddy heard it (two buddies I was with are past honda challenge racers) so he immediately came over to inspect. Put the car in the air and sure enough the wheel bearing was bad. We tightened the axle nut, I rotated tires, and then hit the next session. Maybe it was the wheel bearing...maybe it was the fact I was running two spacers sandwiched together...or MAYBE, for the first time since I started tracking in 2005, I forgot to torque my lugs :/
I hope it wasn't the latter since all other wheels were torqued down. I can't imagine I missed one, but maybe I did. Lesson learned and I'll be more diligent in the future.
Important thing is the wheels didn't fall off. Things could have been much worse. Oh, and I don't normally run spacers on wheels, but I felt the pressure to space out those wheels in the flares so it looked better for the magazine. ****, ****.
I hope it wasn't the latter since all other wheels were torqued down. I can't imagine I missed one, but maybe I did. Lesson learned and I'll be more diligent in the future.
Important thing is the wheels didn't fall off. Things could have been much worse. Oh, and I don't normally run spacers on wheels, but I felt the pressure to space out those wheels in the flares so it looked better for the magazine. ****, ****.
Man that's nuts... I'm guilty of driving my car down the road a few blocks and realizing one wheel only had the lugs finger tight. Glad it didn't end up way worse.
I like the track talk this thread has taken - nice to see so many get put to real use!
I'm prepping a 91 civic to STS class per the guidelines provided on the RedShift Motorsports site and had a question -
for that class I know you can run a 7.5 wide wheel - and they generally recommend the 949 racing or the Rpf1.
Now I'm ready to buy wheels and am looking at:
15x7.5 949's with 205/50/15 or 225/45/15 tires
or
14x7 Enkei Rpf1's 195/60/15
From what I have read the weight difference is pretty huge - 15x8 6ULs w/ 225-45 RS2s, which came in at about 33lbs (just under, actually). 14x7 RPF1s, 19mm offset, with 195-55 T1Rs....
*drum roll, please*
...just under 25lbs per corner!!
Which is better for the class, with double duty on the street?
Cheers and thanks in advance mates!
I'm prepping a 91 civic to STS class per the guidelines provided on the RedShift Motorsports site and had a question -
for that class I know you can run a 7.5 wide wheel - and they generally recommend the 949 racing or the Rpf1.
Now I'm ready to buy wheels and am looking at:
15x7.5 949's with 205/50/15 or 225/45/15 tires
or
14x7 Enkei Rpf1's 195/60/15
From what I have read the weight difference is pretty huge - 15x8 6ULs w/ 225-45 RS2s, which came in at about 33lbs (just under, actually). 14x7 RPF1s, 19mm offset, with 195-55 T1Rs....
*drum roll, please*
...just under 25lbs per corner!!
Which is better for the class, with double duty on the street?
Cheers and thanks in advance mates!
Good stuff Nick... Event looked awesome and with the other 2 things going on there I bet it kept the day busy. Car looks great..I personally like the oem front best. Look forward to the results!
Rszero, i would go with the enkeis. After what i posted a few pages back with the 949's, i have never been able to look at those things the same way
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
Thanks Dan, Jordan, and Justin! The J's stuff is for sale...but all I get are people pretending to buy it. Oh well. I'm sure it will sell one of these days. I'm really anxious for track results as I've heard a few rumors. I agree...the USDM front looks best.
RSZero...What are the winning STS cars running? 14's? 15's? 205s or 225s? That is the information I would solely go off of.
RSZero...What are the winning STS cars running? 14's? 15's? 205s or 225s? That is the information I would solely go off of.
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
Any cast wheel will break if you drop it on berms or in the dirt. Tracked with a buddy last weekend who has cracked 949's before...and now I know why. I watched him drop his front inside wheel in a turn and heard a loud thunk. It was probably his LCA hitting the berm. That'll break a wheel too. Come to find out the times he did crack a wheel it was because of a particular berm at Buttonwillow that you're NOT supposed to hit.
I wouldnt say that I disliked the J's front, it was just a big change from how it was. The original look just grew on me so its good to see it back. The flares still look sick if not better! I also like the Hasport front even though some have their opinions on it.. I like all aero stuff, Any plans for something in the rear Nick? I feel like using a rear diffuser would be best with an entire underbody panel, but I like to overkill things! I did find this while searching around some time ago. not sure it would be very useful without covering the entire rear bumper section .


Any cast wheel will break if you drop it on berms or in the dirt. Tracked with a buddy last weekend who has cracked 949's before...and now I know why. I watched him drop his front inside wheel in a turn and heard a loud thunk. It was probably his LCA hitting the berm. That'll break a wheel too. Come to find out the times he did crack a wheel it was because of a particular berm at Buttonwillow that you're NOT supposed to hit.
I also found a set of used 15x7 et 30 Panasports - AND as much as i love them, the rota version in the same size and offset is actually lighter...



