The Official EF Discussion Thread
Alright who feels like getting into a discussion/debate? Ive been thinking about doing a mild build on my zc (NA) cuz i cant afford a swap right now. One way to make car lacking power faster is making it lighter, soooo
LETS TALK WEIGHT REDUCTION.
List some tips and if possible, the weight saved by adding lightweight products or removing heavy oem items.
LETS TALK WEIGHT REDUCTION.
List some tips and if possible, the weight saved by adding lightweight products or removing heavy oem items.
I didn't weigh mine, but converting to a manual rack is supposed to save about 30lbs with just the subframe. Obviously, the pump, lines and reservoir will save a few more lbs. I don't know if your hatch is manual steering or not, but that's another idea.
Wiring is heavy so if you remove a/c, power steering, cruise control and other junk like that, you can also delete all of that wiring to save some weight.
Removing sound deadening can save some weight, but it's a PITA to get out. Dry ice works pretty well.
Race seats are a lot lighter.
Unspung weight with wheels, tires, lugs, brakes, etc. might be the most important place to save weight. When I switched from the Fit wheels to the K1s on my sedan I got about 3mpg better.
Just around the block a few times. The brakes need to be bled and I have to figure out why the temp gauge isn't working. It's apparently another problem with the wiring harness. Pretty frustrated with it.
When I removed the entire a/c system from my sedan, it was in a cardboard box to be shipped and the whole thing weighed 51lbs. That's one way to save a ton of weight and drag on the motor.
I didn't weigh mine, but converting to a manual rack is supposed to save about 30lbs with just the subframe. Obviously, the pump, lines and reservoir will save a few more lbs. I don't know if your hatch is manual steering or not, but that's another idea.
Wiring is heavy so if you remove a/c, power steering, cruise control and other junk like that, you can also delete all of that wiring to save some weight.
Removing sound deadening can save some weight, but it's a PITA to get out. Dry ice works pretty well.
Race seats are a lot lighter.
Unspung weight with wheels, tires, lugs, brakes, etc. might be the most important place to save weight. When I switched from the Fit wheels to the K1s on my sedan I got about 3mpg better.
I didn't weigh mine, but converting to a manual rack is supposed to save about 30lbs with just the subframe. Obviously, the pump, lines and reservoir will save a few more lbs. I don't know if your hatch is manual steering or not, but that's another idea.
Wiring is heavy so if you remove a/c, power steering, cruise control and other junk like that, you can also delete all of that wiring to save some weight.
Removing sound deadening can save some weight, but it's a PITA to get out. Dry ice works pretty well.
Race seats are a lot lighter.
Unspung weight with wheels, tires, lugs, brakes, etc. might be the most important place to save weight. When I switched from the Fit wheels to the K1s on my sedan I got about 3mpg better.
pervert
shouldn't be a problem, it is a good amount of weight but the brass fittings are strong, and i ran an 8 valve set up in a blazer that was all off the front of a 5gal tank and had no problems, and that was hard bolted to the floor, this time I've got rubber washers between the tank and base and there will be more between the base and the floor, besides if it did sag from bouncing or any other reason I'm fairly positive that it would be the bolts that hold the tank to the base that would break first
Mine is cracked as well. I've never made crazy power. Nothing over 300whp I'd say. I need to pull it out and fix it. Is it hard to remove? Thankfully, mine is just a small crack next to the mount. I havent removed the mount to see beneath it, but it's still solidly in place.
i want a d15b2 block, does anyone have? would be nice if it came with an oil pan, oil pump and pick up tube, monobloc (main bearing cap), and oil seal housings..... give or sell to me please
Thats an interesting way of checking what goin on in the motor, im gonna do that. I dont have an answer for you though, im not educated enough to say if thats normal or not.
I would venture to say you do not want metal shavings in the oil. Buy its good that your filter did its job and grabbed them up. Next time use A magnetic drain plug and see what it picks up. U cam get them from the auto parts store. Don't need to overspend at pw:jdm
Not at all engine runs good doesn't make any weird noises
Ill pick one up soon and see what happens
What could be causing this?
Ill pick one up soon and see what happens
What could be causing this?
what kind of oil do you use? Most synthetics tends to mess stuff up. Pull your valve cover and look at your cam caps and journals to see if there is damage.
I was told by the guys at Crower Cams to only use regular oil like penzoil or castrol. It has better wear protection somehow...
I was told by the guys at Crower Cams to only use regular oil like penzoil or castrol. It has better wear protection somehow...
Yeah, a little bit of wiring and the coil unit box thing. I forget what it's called. It can be swapped in favor of the a/c delete duct.
Its called the Evaporator. probably doesnt weigh much.. be sure to get the plug to cover the hole too.
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/upgrade_s...productid=5020
Not a hard job.. Pull the heat and entire blower motor too!
Boosted- You shared pics again!! nice progress. what was wrong with the headlights to begin with?
what do you use to connect the exhaust? a vanjen?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/upgrade_s...productid=5020
Not a hard job.. Pull the heat and entire blower motor too!
Boosted- You shared pics again!! nice progress. what was wrong with the headlights to begin with?
what do you use to connect the exhaust? a vanjen?
That's what an oil filter is for bro it supposed. To catch the metal shavings from your engine even tho your motor is oiled its still metal to metal contact surfaces that move really fast that's why there is engine wear……ps yes cracking your oil filter open is a great way to check your motor condition
Looking for an lower console for an *NH89L* Palmy Gray interior.
I think this is the part #
( 77294-SH4-S00ZB ) CONSOLE, FR. LOWER *NH89L**
Canadian part # 08137-SH411CH

thanks
I think this is the part #
( 77294-SH4-S00ZB ) CONSOLE, FR. LOWER *NH89L**
Canadian part # 08137-SH411CH

thanks









