The Official EF Discussion Thread
1) H motors lists an option to add a P08 ecu to an order (just for reference, I am not getting the motor from them). Elsewhere I have read that I need a P28 ecu. What are the differences between the P08 and the P28? Which is best for my application? Is $100 the norm for a P28?
2) I read in one place that I will need a throttle cable from an EF Si or EX. Is that true?
There seems to be more information available for the D16Z6 swap than the D15B, but my understanding is that much of it is the same.
Dont think you need an Si throttle cable. I have a Z6 and I think I still have a DX cable.
Here is some of the clearest information I have found.
This makes me want the P08 so I don't have to do the extra 02 wiring and have a "slight performance decrease." I'm not really concerned about the nominal price difference, I guess. I don't know anything about chipping an ecu. I really don't know if it would even be advantageous since it will likely only have i/h/e for a while.
ECU
ECU is a 'small case' P08 (this will run with single wire 02 as thats what VTi/VXi came with). VTEC point is at 4800-5200 rpm (4800 @ WOT), while the rev limit (fuel cut off) is at around 7350 rpm. P08 has fairly leaner maps with more timing advance then the P28/D16Z6 ecu. A USDM p28 can be used longest 4-wire 02 is used and you don't mind the slight performance decrease. But no worries it can be easily chipped to P08 specs.
ECU is a 'small case' P08 (this will run with single wire 02 as thats what VTi/VXi came with). VTEC point is at 4800-5200 rpm (4800 @ WOT), while the rev limit (fuel cut off) is at around 7350 rpm. P08 has fairly leaner maps with more timing advance then the P28/D16Z6 ecu. A USDM p28 can be used longest 4-wire 02 is used and you don't mind the slight performance decrease. But no worries it can be easily chipped to P08 specs.
speedo should be the same, worked on my auto-manual swap i did years ago on a beater daily.
Matt, the dualpoint throttle cable works, its just longer, and you have to wrap it around the valve cover a bit. no problem at all, i've used the dual point throttle body on about 20 DPFI-MPFI swaps, and its never an issue. its all rather self-explanatory once your digging into it.
Matt, the dualpoint throttle cable works, its just longer, and you have to wrap it around the valve cover a bit. no problem at all, i've used the dual point throttle body on about 20 DPFI-MPFI swaps, and its never an issue. its all rather self-explanatory once your digging into it.
speedo should be the same, worked on my auto-manual swap i did years ago on a beater daily.
Matt, the dualpoint throttle cable works, its just longer, and you have to wrap it around the valve cover a bit. no problem at all, i've used the dual point throttle body on about 20 DPFI-MPFI swaps, and its never an issue. its all rather self-explanatory once your digging into it.
Matt, the dualpoint throttle cable works, its just longer, and you have to wrap it around the valve cover a bit. no problem at all, i've used the dual point throttle body on about 20 DPFI-MPFI swaps, and its never an issue. its all rather self-explanatory once your digging into it.
The plan is to have all my ducks in a row for when the time comes for the swap so I can limit the amount of time the car is down. Less down time equals less stress in my marriage.
I'm learning. It's funny I've been around all this stuff for a long time, but never bothered to pay any attention to it because I've never needed to know any of it. Now that I'm digging into it, I'm realizing there is a wide range of opinions and theories on what is necessary and what isn't. That and flat out wrong information
Matt get the z6
chipped p28 and running obd-1 has more tuning option
I have never heard of a "power decrease" from running a 4 wire o2 in comparison to a 2 wire.
Also yes you can use your old dx throttle cable. It will be long but will work perfectly fine. You can always upgrade later
The hardest part of the swap that I can remember is the injectors. Obd-1 you don't need to run the resistor box just go straight to the ecu. Or you can be like me and use the resistor box anyway. I just can't remember how I did it or why I did it that way
chipped p28 and running obd-1 has more tuning option
I have never heard of a "power decrease" from running a 4 wire o2 in comparison to a 2 wire.
Also yes you can use your old dx throttle cable. It will be long but will work perfectly fine. You can always upgrade later
The hardest part of the swap that I can remember is the injectors. Obd-1 you don't need to run the resistor box just go straight to the ecu. Or you can be like me and use the resistor box anyway. I just can't remember how I did it or why I did it that way
Same setup I have 
Ok guys so White Fang has officially started up. Looks like it was the ignition wire (black/yellow). I cut it, to be able to disable my ignition so the car would not start or be stolen (ghetto kill switch). Seems the wire got kind of frayed and was only sending 5volts instead of 12volts. So after fixing that now that car @ times won't cut off. Even when the key is out. The tech told me to get another ignition switch cause it seems mine is going bad.
This now leads to the second problem which they say is possibly related to the ignition switch as well. The motor falls on its face. HARD. Before the wire was repaired it would only do it in 1st and 2 gear right when vtec should engage. After wire repair it does it at any given time. Almost to the point where the idle completely drops in idle and almost cuts off. I was about to drive the car home, foot to the floor in 1st gear and the car just got slower and slower.
Anyone ever had the issue before dealing with an ignition?
The car has never had this problem at all.
Good news, the car starts now
Cliff notes:
Car starts after fixing black/yellow main ignition switch wire
after repair car will intermittent now shut off
car falls on it face when accelerating
told related to ignition switch

Ok guys so White Fang has officially started up. Looks like it was the ignition wire (black/yellow). I cut it, to be able to disable my ignition so the car would not start or be stolen (ghetto kill switch). Seems the wire got kind of frayed and was only sending 5volts instead of 12volts. So after fixing that now that car @ times won't cut off. Even when the key is out. The tech told me to get another ignition switch cause it seems mine is going bad.
This now leads to the second problem which they say is possibly related to the ignition switch as well. The motor falls on its face. HARD. Before the wire was repaired it would only do it in 1st and 2 gear right when vtec should engage. After wire repair it does it at any given time. Almost to the point where the idle completely drops in idle and almost cuts off. I was about to drive the car home, foot to the floor in 1st gear and the car just got slower and slower.
Anyone ever had the issue before dealing with an ignition?
The car has never had this problem at all.
Good news, the car starts now

Cliff notes:
Car starts after fixing black/yellow main ignition switch wire
after repair car will intermittent now shut off
car falls on it face when accelerating
told related to ignition switch
Checked for fuel leaks none smelled or scene
really don't know where to go next
Also noticed that after it starts to fall idle will bog down and be really rough struggling to stay on
When I put my foot on the clutch and gas it to try to catch it from stauling the idle bounces.
It basically feels like it slipping and then it will catch and accelerate and then just start falling again. Nothing is consistent. In fact the drive home today was terrifying cause I thought I was going to get re-ended
Matt get the z6
chipped p28 and running obd-1 has more tuning option
I have never heard of a "power decrease" from running a 4 wire o2 in comparison to a 2 wire.
Also yes you can use your old dx throttle cable. It will be long but will work perfectly fine. You can always upgrade later
The hardest part of the swap that I can remember is the injectors. Obd-1 you don't need to run the resistor box just go straight to the ecu. Or you can be like me and use the resistor box anyway. I just can't remember how I did it or why I did it that way
chipped p28 and running obd-1 has more tuning option
I have never heard of a "power decrease" from running a 4 wire o2 in comparison to a 2 wire.
Also yes you can use your old dx throttle cable. It will be long but will work perfectly fine. You can always upgrade later
The hardest part of the swap that I can remember is the injectors. Obd-1 you don't need to run the resistor box just go straight to the ecu. Or you can be like me and use the resistor box anyway. I just can't remember how I did it or why I did it that way

Also noticed that after it starts to fall idle will bog down and be really rough struggling to stay on
When I put my foot on the clutch and gas it to try to catch it from stauling the idle bounces.
It basically feels like it slipping and then it will catch and accelerate and then just start falling again. Nothing is consistent. In fact the drive home today was terrifying cause I thought I was going to get re-ended
Someone just PMd me with an offer to trade me a P06 for a tail light from the parts car (so basically free to me). It's my understaning that I can use a P06 and chip it to P08 specs fairly easily. Is that correct?
Blu, whats your new turbo setup going to be? are you going to be open-tracking it (i see you posting stuff about VIR all the time)
i love and hate open tracking my turbo setup. more love than hate. once things get sorted, its no big deal, but MAN i needed a big radiator and a big fan to keep this monster cool. 3'' thick custom griffin and 16'' SPAL FTW. all cheap though, chopped that radiator up and modded it myself, and the spal was an Ebay mis-label.
i love and hate open tracking my turbo setup. more love than hate. once things get sorted, its no big deal, but MAN i needed a big radiator and a big fan to keep this monster cool. 3'' thick custom griffin and 16'' SPAL FTW. all cheap though, chopped that radiator up and modded it myself, and the spal was an Ebay mis-label.
Blu, whats your new turbo setup going to be? are you going to be open-tracking it (i see you posting stuff about VIR all the time)
i love and hate open tracking my turbo setup. more love than hate. once things get sorted, its no big deal, but MAN i needed a big radiator and a big fan to keep this monster cool. 3'' thick custom griffin and 16'' SPAL FTW. all cheap though, chopped that radiator up and modded it myself, and the spal was an Ebay mis-label.
i love and hate open tracking my turbo setup. more love than hate. once things get sorted, its no big deal, but MAN i needed a big radiator and a big fan to keep this monster cool. 3'' thick custom griffin and 16'' SPAL FTW. all cheap though, chopped that radiator up and modded it myself, and the spal was an Ebay mis-label.
i only want 220whp b/c i will be tracking it. but reading a lot about keeping oil and coolant temps down. going to be using oem radiator (or a full size mishimoto if funds allow) with dual fal fans set-up as pushers, thermostat sandwich plate with B&M oil cooler. since i want to run incognito, i'm using HRTuning Tuner View instead of guages. that's all i have for now.
i believe you can...but you're pushing it during the summer...atleast that's what i've read. read that a air/water cooler would be better.



NA , I had to rub it in...
just installed my coilovers, wheels/tires, vision corners, and spooge mirrors.
my brakes are coming soon from brake expert - 11.1" rotors with CL calipers for the fronts and the rears are 10.2" rotors with RSX-S calipers.
if i can sell my crx, i can start shopping for a B motor.
rollbar, seats, harnesses, steering wheel and DONE!!!



