i have a quick question i put a b16a2 in my 1990 honda civic dx hatch dpfi. i wire it 2 mpfi .i bought the jumper obdo2obd1 and it came with wiring instruction how 2 wire the v tech sensor v tech oil pressure switch and the knocksensor o2 sensor .and i gave it a start it started good but wont pass 3000rpm is the wiring that igot from the jumper harness .plz help need car runing plz

yeah and then prolly another 20 bucks or so for the hardware (mounting tabs)

For some reason, my fans continue to run for about 5-7 secodns after I shut the car off. Only when they had to cool the car before I cut it off though of course. Any ideas for this problem? they didn't used to do this. I changed a relay hoping to fix it, but it didnt work...

My vote goes to the 1st gen teg lip on the sedan. I love how it sticks out a little bit.

oh ok thanx chris. i might get that one.

whhhhaaaaaaatttt

start over again
first you need a obd0-obd1 jumper harness
second your motor came with the wrong v tech. it should have came with the one that has vtec on it.

but seriously. all those wires you are talking about go straight to the ECU and are colored coded. there really is no messing that up. Might be the distributor and swapping the wires there.

Aiken.

make sure your map sensor is plugged in.

a pic of my bucket

well mine wouldn't ever start running when the car was off, but if i shut the car off and it stayed running it would run until the water temp cooled down (and the switch would open). Usually didn't take long at all. You can wire the power of the fan to ignition so the fan always has power when the car is running and then wire the ground the right way. That way the fan would only run when the switch was closed (water temp >90* C) and the ignition is on.

nvm

got a great deal on rotors at AutoZone...just in time for auto-x...if you need rotors i suggest you hit them up

Baer Decela / Brake Rotor - Front
Warranty - 3 MO 31029-020 $76.99/pair
Note: Decela rotor drilled and slotted

Local meet this past saturday.Next upgrade accord wagon calipers with prelude vtec rotors but i need to find some da knuckles or ex first

Anyone using a Full Race traction bar have any problems with fitment? I removed the factory rad supports that same way they say to do in the instructions (http://www.full-race.com/articles/EF...on%20Guide.pdf)
but it seems like i have to shave down some of the front bulkhead(where the radiator tabs were)... just wondering if this is normal or not. any feedback is appreciated.

I had to really bend mine an force it on, but it seems to be fine now. Might want to get it powder coated first, the paint seems to flake off after 6 months

generally any poor fitment issues with EF front ends (and traction bars/crossmembers) isnt the fault of the bar, its the fault of the car. its REALLY easy to tweak the front of an EF. its REALLY hard to find one that hasnt been tweaked. i've only worked on ONE ef ever that wasnt tweaked/hit/etc. i had to FIGHT a couple of them, and the same bar would fit great on one, terrible on another

Ditto, the front ends of EF's are flimsy as hell.

So I'm wasting my 4th trying ot get my car started.

Just recenetly it wouldn't start all the time. It will start fine in the morning but whenever I drive it to work and after my shift it won't start. I have to sit there for like 20 minutes and then it will start. Unless I pop start it.
So I get the started tested today. Startes is bad. Replace it. Car still won't start. Get battery tested today. Battery is perfect. Checked fuses. No burnt fuses. Can't find any wires tangled. Haven't really touched any wires in a while other then adding the H.I.D. kit. Took off the distributor to see if anything looked burnt. Nothing there either.

How to you check a ignition coil if its bad?

Next guess is the transmission maybe but don't know if the symptoms match. Other then hearing a slight grinding sound ever since I upgraded to lighten flywheel when pressing the clutch in. I'm thinking maybe the teeth aren't catching the starter like they are supposed to but if that was the case I wouldn't be able to pop start it right??

Need more details. When you turn the key, what do you hear? Does the starter activate or do you hear nothing? Im betting you hear close to nothing, and since you say all the components check out ok, then you have a connection issue between your battery and starter and or your grounds.

I hear the starter activate when key the key is turned.
Where does the negative from the starter lead too. I was going to unwrap to bndle of wires but thought I would ask before I do all that.

My dad told me it wouldn't be the ignition coil because I wouldn't hear nothing @ all. Only thing I'm doing is bypassing the started when I pop start it so check the wires to the sarter

lol sounds like my car
there is no negative to the starter. the wire with the flat terminal is 12v to the solenoid. the starter grounds its self to the block

Yes and no. The ground for the starter is the heavy gauge wire going from the transmission to frame (usually bolts to a spot underneath the battery tray). That ground must be present and clean, and of thick wire. If not, no crank. Your negative is just as important as your positive.

vega: So when the starter activates, is it cranking the engine? Or does it just make a "click" sound?

What you need to understand is that when you 'pop start' the car, it runs! This should tell you that it has ZERO to do with ignition (spark, dizzy etc), fuel, or timing.

Correct the engine does not crank. The starter plunger or whatever it's called activates and I hear it click.


So if it has nothing do with the timing and all that and the starter is brand new where to search now?

does the black/white wire from the starter go to the main fuse box, I can't remember off the top of my head if it does or not.

Possibly clean off the ground or get a thicker wire and see what happens?

the big wire coming off the starter goes to the fusebox, i believe..

the starter signal wire is connected, right?

the big wire coming off the starter goes to the fusebox, i believe..

the starter signal wire is connected, right?