Yeah. You know what it's like.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1eHEp7nyIg

 

hahahahaha!

 

holy ****. what tranny you got in there? I've got an ITR tranny and I'm only around 4400 at 80mph.

 

traction bar discussion, guys? Anybody using a K-Tuned traction bar or Full Race? which do u prefer?

I've had HUGE problems with my Explicit speed traction bar. The problem has been occurring for a very long time and i just today found out what the problem was.

 

Oh please exlain! I have the same bar and I also have issues with it, but you first

 

well, the wheel has about 1/4" of play sliding forward and backward. I found that there is a ton of movement or looseness in the heim joints that bolt to the LCA. I might try to get them to send me new IBolts, but i don't particularly care for the design anyway. It seems like the radius arms are at an extreme angle and are almost as the point of binding before any shock travel.

 

do they bolt to the tow hook location?

 

Work in progress



Posted in the wrong thread earlier.

 

I would save and get the full race. It all depends on your money situation.. I know a few people that have it and they are more than happy with it.

 

they bolt to the tow hook location AND one of the crossmember bolts. i'll have mine for sale soon, but it will need a new Heim Joint. I'm thinking they can be had from a fastenal store or i'm sure ESP will ship them to you.

 

it may have broken your tow hook nuts loose(the tack welds on the inside of the frame). It happened to me when I installed a bar that bolted only to the tow hook location last year. I wont make the same mistake again.

 

y1 with lsd. yeah it sucks on the interstate. luckily i don't travel often.

 

Wow and i thought 4k at 75mph was horrible, and with a stock exhaust

 

Has it been modded? do you know what FD you have? I didn't think there was a oem tranny that had a closer ratio than the itr one...

 

I don't know if it's been modified. I just was told that it's the oem lsd. I'm running 16" 205/45 tires too, so it's not like I'm on bottlecaps.

 

i'm constantly on the highway and love my LS transmission...right or just under 4k @ 80mph

 

Well i wish that was the problem. I'd just weld the bar in place or re-weld the chassis nuts from the back.

I get a "clunking" when i hit bumps at low speeds, and off the line at slow speeds the front end chatters a LOT. After some investigating and getting the car on a lift for the first time i noticed when a friend moved the wheel that the only other movement i had was in the heim joint. The axles were still, tie rods were good, everything. But the heim moved as if the bolt going through it was loose and too small.
i have the same sort of issue. I'm using a VTi cluster (90-91 though), a stock speedo cable, D-Series VSS and a '04 RSX-S 6spd. transmission. My speedo is off by about 10 mph at highway speeds. Tach seems on though.

However, when i had my Si cluster the speedo was the same as it is now, but my tach was off by like 500rpms at 4000rpms. That's bad.

 

I have the same issue with mine and I hate it. I actually contacted john from esp and told him. He basicly said they have to have movement in them. So there was no resolution. Basicly all I can say is NEVER buy one. Having play in the joints defeats the purpose of having traction bars. If he can't understand that than he doesn't deserve our money.

 

Get hte fullrace bar, quit ****ing around. Finished hte cabin wiring last night, hook up a charge pack and turned the key, fuel pump primed with no leaks SOON SO SOON

 

Awesome chemist!!!

 

i sent him an email and this is what i got in response:

then i went into more detail and explained what the issue was. no response so far.

 

Fullrace people stop messing around with this garbage!!!!!

 

So you think this is off? the tach or the speedo?

 

yea. i got you the first time.

will you give me a full race bar? because i have a ESP bar that should be working fine. I don't drag race my car, and the ESP bar should be more then enough for my setup. But the heim joints are worn so i'm working on fixing what i have rather then buy two crossmembers, both overpriced.

So if you wanna give me a full race bar let me know how you wanna get it done and i'll just scrap my ESP bar.

 

when does VTEC engage? when should it engage?