if i had the money to buy any car i'd want, i'd drive it everyday....probably have a Zonda as a dd

 

The interior is coming togeter.(Status Seats, Spoon wheel, and OEM armrest.)

 

Wow, talk about clean and OCD!!

 

Just reminded me...How have you guys "fixed" the headlight rattle on your ef's? My driver headlight vibrates like crazy at certain rpms(about 1500)!! Drives me nuts and it's embarrassing.

 

I haven't fixed mine lol. It's not embarrassing to me. Just sit inside the car and hear all of those rattles first. The headlight is a faint noise.

 

luckily I dont have many rattles on the inside, although lately I've been hearing this popping sound from the hatch area when I go over the uneven terrain of my downhill driveway. I think where the hatch has seam sealer is rubbing around and making noise. I also think that's the source of my leaky hatch.

 

i thought i fixed my rattle, but it came back, just not as loud

 

the only rattle i have is where my exhaust hit against my rear sway bar, it was only at idle so i never cared to fix it, my headlight never rattled though

 

my headlight rattles, as well as my stereo, and my passenger window only when fully rolled up. most those because of those stupid motor mount inserts. ah well, its almost 20 years old.

 

My muffler used to vibrate on my lower tie bar, but I cut some heater hose and zip tied it on to stop that. I have since had a few exhaust changes and never the same problem. that damn headlight rattle just drives me nuts!

 

There might be compatibility issues with that particular swap, although im not 100% sure. You see, 90-91 trannies are a different animal compared to the 92-93 ones. While they both may be cable actuated, thats about where the similarities stop. When going with oem lsd's, I do know that ys1 is a good candidate for an itr helical unit. Its a bit more aggresssive than the y1's lsd, or at least thats what ive noticed when driving each one.

 

my window does the same, as well as my spoiler (weird) , change, and whatever is loose

 

im almost tempted to buy new headlights from Honda. saw some on ebay the other day, should have gotten em.

 

i got new headlights from Honda well mostly b/c imy car was in an accidently and the previous owner who fixed it worked at Honda

 

I have a set of USDM EF headlights that are pretty mint if you're interested...

 

Thanks for the response man! I assumed that question went over everyones head. I found a thread where one guy was in my same situation. Taking a Y1 lsd and putting it into a ys1. He said it worked, but the ring gears had to be switched. I'm assuming the ys1 gear was put onto the y1diff assembly? I don't really know much in this category. Would an itr diff be direct installation? Or would there be things to change. And also (if you know) what year helical itr diff would be ideal? Thanks for the help man again

 

No problem bro, and yea it did seem like everyone just glossed right over it, lol. Im guessing not many mess with trannys so thats the reason.

I installed everything (gearsets, forks, etc) from a 97 jdm itr trans into my LS 92-93 YS1, including the lsd. I found threads on my specific swap that mentioned grinding that was needed to clear the lsd, but on my install everything was a straight drop in. I did have to reshim to get the diff's endplay within specs, but that wasnt that hard at all, and that step is needed/required for any diff swap.

Im unsure of which ring gear you would need for the Y1 lsd to work, but I would assume you would use one that matches the same tooth count as the old one as to not change the f/d ratio. Seeing as how the 90-91 trannys are much different from the 92+ trannys, i would think its best to use 92+ parts.

I also think all of the itr LSD's are the same, but the ring gears changed since the f/d ratios were different on the 98+ i think. It was like 4.4 versus 4.7 or something.

Also, when using a diff from a hydro trans, its best to use the type of bearings from a 92-93 since they are easier to set the endplay with versus the roller/taper style found on the hydro ones that need to be preloaded.

 

I thought EF's with motor swaps were supposed to rattle. Like that was a requirement

Anyone want to donate their working crx climate control unit? The temp adjustment **** on mine broke. The damn thing is fallin apart lol. I need to units to make one decent one. Guess I'll hit up the junkyard today. I have the metal plate ready to go on once I get this part working again.

Also, when disconnecting my a/c lines (pretty sure they're empty) do I need to be careful? Or just stay away from the EPA?

 

hey when u go to the junkyard, lemme know if you see ant 90-91 civics with the front end still intact

 

Haha. I say get 'em evac'd really quick. If you're 100% sure they're empty, no worries. My suction hose made a popping sound when it finally came lose, but the receiver pipe made no noise. Make sure to change the little gaskets...I still need to order mine and get my system recharged.

 

when evacuating the refrigerant illegally i would just barely brake the bolt loose then drive around with the a/c turned on for a day. then it'll be empty for sure.

 

DONT EMPTY THEM ILLEGALLY, Halogenated solvents destroy the ozone and are CATALYTIC (aka a little goes a long way!)

 

what do you need, i dont need mine anymore

 

Couldnt you just hold down the pintle on one of the shrader valves? Im sure the system would empty within 3-5 minutes or so.


I agree with boosted though, and think about his...if you have the old school R12 stuff, some places *might* even pay you for it! Its a bit more costly than 134a and can be harder to come by.

 

both front and rear bumpers with supports, and a front filler