The Official EF Discussion Thread
what do you guys think...sell my car and get this mabey
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1079549631.html
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1079549631.html
what do you guys think...sell my car and get this mabey
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1079549631.html
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1079549631.html
what do you guys think...sell my car and get this mabey
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1079549631.html
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1079549631.html
Say I have a bare head, all apart. I want to clean it as well. Will aircraft paint remover works? I know I done this to my bare y8 manifold and it sure cleaned it up like new. Will it hurt anything? Seem like the easiest way to get all the carbon build up in the exhaust port and intake side.
I'm pulling the motor from the wagon tomorrow so if anyone needs any D series stuff let me know. I'm going to try to get the whole a/c system out without breaking anything so I can sell it as a whole unit. I should be able to get some detailed pics and sell some more stuff. The more I sell, the more I can do to the sedan.
Civic is my dd...wife drive the Cavalier and we drive the Land Cruiser on weekends...did the 4 car thing before, but having 2 cars we never drove made no sense
my friend has a swapped 2.5rs. amazingly fast in every form. but it took us 3 weeks and cost him some money with all the problems that came up. i cant think of a car off hand that will be as cheap to mod as a honda. but subarus are amazing cars.
i was looking at that swap...that's some $$$ right there...but i wouldn't or should i say couldn't afford to do anything to the engine...it'd be great for auto-x
Say I have a bare head, all apart. I want to clean it as well. Will aircraft paint remover works? I know I done this to my bare y8 manifold and it sure cleaned it up like new. Will it hurt anything? Seem like the easiest way to get all the carbon build up in the exhaust port and intake side.
So i need to do my brakes. I have new brembo blanks and axxxis metal masters. I know they are shitty pads should i run? Also do the rears make that much of a difference and can i cut cost and run my metal masters in the rear?
No problem bro, and yea it did seem like everyone just glossed right over it, lol. Im guessing not many mess with trannys so thats the reason.
I installed everything (gearsets, forks, etc) from a 97 jdm itr trans into my LS 92-93 YS1, including the lsd. I found threads on my specific swap that mentioned grinding that was needed to clear the lsd, but on my install everything was a straight drop in. I did have to reshim to get the diff's endplay within specs, but that wasnt that hard at all, and that step is needed/required for any diff swap.
Im unsure of which ring gear you would need for the Y1 lsd to work, but I would assume you would use one that matches the same tooth count as the old one as to not change the f/d ratio. Seeing as how the 90-91 trannys are much different from the 92+ trannys, i would think its best to use 92+ parts.
I also think all of the itr LSD's are the same, but the ring gears changed since the f/d ratios were different on the 98+ i think. It was like 4.4 versus 4.7 or something.
Also, when using a diff from a hydro trans, its best to use the type of bearings from a 92-93 since they are easier to set the endplay with versus the roller/taper style found on the hydro ones that need to be preloaded.
I installed everything (gearsets, forks, etc) from a 97 jdm itr trans into my LS 92-93 YS1, including the lsd. I found threads on my specific swap that mentioned grinding that was needed to clear the lsd, but on my install everything was a straight drop in. I did have to reshim to get the diff's endplay within specs, but that wasnt that hard at all, and that step is needed/required for any diff swap.
Im unsure of which ring gear you would need for the Y1 lsd to work, but I would assume you would use one that matches the same tooth count as the old one as to not change the f/d ratio. Seeing as how the 90-91 trannys are much different from the 92+ trannys, i would think its best to use 92+ parts.
I also think all of the itr LSD's are the same, but the ring gears changed since the f/d ratios were different on the 98+ i think. It was like 4.4 versus 4.7 or something.
Also, when using a diff from a hydro trans, its best to use the type of bearings from a 92-93 since they are easier to set the endplay with versus the roller/taper style found on the hydro ones that need to be preloaded.
Last edited by thevtecnician; Mar 18, 2009 at 10:47 AM.
The f/d is made up 2 gears, which is how you get a ratio. 1 of them is the ring gear and the other is on the countershaft, which is part of the shaft itself, not separate.
YS1 could be a vtec trans or an LS trans. Its mainly the trans code for a 92-93 regardless of trim level.
The f/d is made up 2 gears, which is how you get a ratio. 1 of them is the ring gear and the other is on the countershaft, which is part of the shaft itself, not separate.
The f/d is made up 2 gears, which is how you get a ratio. 1 of them is the ring gear and the other is on the countershaft, which is part of the shaft itself, not separate.
could probably install the trans in the car and drive it done the road and see what the rpms are at, at certain speeds.
the trans is still in my car.thats another thing haha.im not gonna pull that trans until i know what im doing with the diff
what knuckles where the same HF/SI
or DX/SI?
I'm swaping in a B16 into a 88' HF and need o know if I have to get some diffrent knuckles befor starting the swap.
or DX/SI?
I'm swaping in a B16 into a 88' HF and need o know if I have to get some diffrent knuckles befor starting the swap.
Well I got a quote from a shop I used to alwasy use - to replace the left bulkhead (including labor, paint and whatnot to reinstall the complete frontend) is about $700-800.
I get the bulkhead cheaper, and told him I could reinstall, but he would like to do it to make sure everything fits right before they weld in the new piece.
That sound about right price wise? I do still have to get a pic up (been lazy) but it's mainly the driverside headlight bucked that is messed up, the upper mounting bar for the headlight is tweaked - how hard would it be to bang one out, I assume I'd have to use a slide hammer.
I get the bulkhead cheaper, and told him I could reinstall, but he would like to do it to make sure everything fits right before they weld in the new piece.
That sound about right price wise? I do still have to get a pic up (been lazy) but it's mainly the driverside headlight bucked that is messed up, the upper mounting bar for the headlight is tweaked - how hard would it be to bang one out, I assume I'd have to use a slide hammer.



