<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your going b series, lsvtec or your wasting money .</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm goin all motor LS. =&gt;pwnage.

Look what came in the mail today.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why I disagree?

cause stroke makes torque right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can build a nice lsvtec for &lt;1200, try getting a whole gsr or itr block for that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">making stock bottom end K power with bastardized B bottomend parts</TD></TR></TABLE>

I said b series herman, pay attention.

 

meh i could sit here and argue about engine dynamics all night...just depends on what you do with the car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I said b series herman, pay attention. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasnt talking to you

ive found gsr block/cranks on "the bay" for $250-300 (which I should have bought)
its all the same right now B series wise there are no new ones coming and everyone who has a complete swap wont break it up........and everyone with parts wants an *** load for em.....we were talking about Gas milage engine set ups the other day....and just like ******** everyone had their own opinion about that....I will always live by R/S ratio no matter what anyone says. period 226mm DART block FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gospeedgo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha

why not fix it now james instead of waiting until something goes really wrong and then you are gonna spend a lot more the a grand to fix it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


its to late.
I already talked to the my mech. about the motor and he ssaid I'll be fine. Worst case scenerio its only going to miss firing every now and then but it won'r do any further harm. All other valves are 10-18% across. I'm just going to put it in and save up money. The major thing is learning how to do everything so when it comes time for a real swap i'll still have some dirt under my finger nails

Changed the timing belt, water pump, crank seal, cam seal and leak dow test all today on the b16 by myself w/out even reading or looking at a picture

plus i found out from looking at my Timing belt cover I kinda got ripped off because my motor is not a Gen.2 B16 but indeed a Gen.1 converted to obd-1. Unless it came from a 92 CR-X/Del Sol

 

believe the Crx/ DElsol was still obd-1

integra XSI ?

 

New news, after much discussion with the chemist. As soon, as my K car is done, building a faster D powered car, just for the K series haters, and for myself to daily drive. Flat black A/C, power everything, radio, the works, and around 400whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">New news, after much discussion with the chemist. As soon, as my K car is done, building a faster D powered car, just for the K series haters, and for myself to daily drive. Flat black A/C, power everything, radio, the works, and around 400whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>



WHO was K hatin?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'm sure the K will be more fun, but I need a quick daily, nice, and with comfortable options.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



WHO was K hatin?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No one on here. There are always K haters in the tech forums though. They are all SOHC Rules the world. WTF ever. I am gonna do this because it is cheap, not good. A boosted K with stock internals can easily reach 600whp, I mean come on. But this is just gonna be a beater. I like All Motor power way better, this car is gonna be a heavy street can, and can use the boost. It will never be competitive, it is not being built for that.

 

oh ok I gotcha

my car is gonna be like the body and spirit of your K crx.....with the motor of your beater........prolly going to go the route of redzcstandardhatch later on.

 

Has anyone had a problem with their clutch pedal/cable making like a clicking sound? Half through the pedal travel there's a click. I feel it on the pedal; it's really weird. Now the clutch grabs SUPER low despite my tightening the cable (making it grab higher). Weird

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok I gotcha

my car is gonna be like the body and spirit of your K crx.....with the motor of your beater........prolly going to go the route of redzcstandardhatch later on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah IC. I dunno about the F series. Seems like allot of hacking for not much power. I understand why people try to be different, but some things are not worth it, and a waste of time IMHO. I'm sure it will be quick, but could be quicker with less hacking. Just my .02 I mean sure the K car is hacked, but it is the best 4cylinder in the world it is worth it.

In the end if all out speed is the goal. Turbo 1.9l GSR&gt;*. If you are gonna build a turbo car I think K is a waste. The ivtec advantage looses to the crank the boost up mod. People are making 1300whp with turbo B's why would you ever need more? I'm an all motor guy though, thats why I have a K. I'm rambling aren't I?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your going b series, lsvtec or your wasting money .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or you can spend the extra money from the vtec conversion kit that's needed and buy a bare gsr block then run the LS crank and rods and not have to worry about oil leaks. GSR blocks are cheap, Ive seen them go for $200-$300 with mains.

I think if you are going to do the non vtec bottom with a vtec head you are better off stepping it up and going b20/vtec. A stock bottom b20/vtec with mild ported head and good cams and you are well over the 200whp mark.

 

gsr block with an ls crank. you get the stroke and the squirters.

i'm just gonna rock a straight gsr. simple.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone had a problem with their clutch pedal/cable making like a clicking sound? Half through the pedal travel there's a click. I feel it on the pedal; it's really weird. Now the clutch grabs SUPER low despite my tightening the cable (making it grab higher). Weird </TD></TR></TABLE>

Crack in the pedal assembly?
Chronic problem in swapped EFs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In the end if all out speed is the goal. Turbo 1.9l GSR&gt;*. If you are gonna build a turbo car I think K is a waste. The ivtec advantage looses to the crank the boost up mod. People are making 1300whp with turbo B's why would you ever need more? I'm an all motor guy though, thats why I have a K. I'm rambling aren't I?</TD></TR></TABLE>

K's are still way too expensive to put in an EF. I mean come on... 12-14k to get one into your car (correctly)! Dont get me wrong, I love the K, but its just too much, its over the top for a car like mine!

And why in the hell do you want 400whp in an EF??? If you are drag racing than that's another story, but for a street car its dumb. You wont have any traction and the reliability issues will keep you from wanting to take your car on longer runs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fiddynut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crack in the pedal assembly?
Chronic problem in swapped EFs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had that problem right before the cable snapped. it had stretched far enough that engagement was funky/popping noise was the cable letting go winding by winding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

K's are still way too expensive to put in an EF. I mean come on... 12-14k to get one into your car (correctly)! Dont get me wrong, I love the K, but its just too much, its over the top for a car like mine!

And why in the hell do you want 400whp in an EF??? If you are drag racing than that's another story, but for a street car its dumb. You wont have any traction and the reliability issues will keep you from wanting to take your car on longer runs.</TD></TR></TABLE>


It is closer to 10, but can be done for less, and correctly, I got deals. I'm not even gonna tell u what I have in mine, but it is less. I know my D car will not have traction. I have traction problems with 220whp. I refuse to have a turbo car with less than 350hp. Reason being that turbos are capable of so much more, and the fasted NA motors in the world are 375ish. So I gotta be around there to beat most NA cars. It will mostly be a DD, but it will see track time. Less money to fix when **** breaks, axles, trannys.......

 

my clutch pedal squeaks halfway up, prolly needs some grease or a new cable.

 

Its good to know there are symptoms before it actually snaps. I plan on replacing mine anyway just to be safe. The pressure plate on my clutch is super stiff so I dont want to take any chances!

Does anyone know if there is a shorter clutch cable than the stock crx one that will work for a crx. I would like mine to be like 6" to 1' shorter. Is the JDM cable
shorter??

 

the japanese cable is about 2 and a half feet shorter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


It is closer to 10, but can be done for less, and correctly, I got deals. I'm not even gonna tell u what I have in mine, but it is less. I know my D car will not have traction. I have traction problems with 220whp. I refuse to have a turbo car with less than 350hp. Reason being that turbos are capable of so much more, and the fasted NA motors in the world are 375ish. So I gotta be around there to beat most NA cars. It will mostly be a DD, but it will see track time. Less money to fix when **** breaks, axles, trannys.......</TD></TR></TABLE>

I gaurantee you get rid of the turbo around a year or so after you install it. Everyone I know who has gone Turbo has gone back to NA soon after!

I understand what you mean about using the Turbo to its fullest potential but the problem is that its too much power and that added power is wasted so poeple feel like they wasted their money on something that cant be used. But hey, its your car and you can do what you will with it.

When you get it done I want a ride!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does anyone know if there is a shorter clutch cable than the stock crx one that will work for a crx. I would like mine to be like 6" to 1' shorter. Is the JDM cable
shorter??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes but it is too short. Would not work with a K and the tranny is on the other side closer to the clutch so it will definitly not work in a EF. I would look at older pre DA tegs, and EAs, and maybe some old accords, and ludes of the late, and early 80's.

 

Damn, I dont think that will work!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I gaurantee you get rid of the turbo around a year or so after you install it. Everyone I know who has gone Turbo has gone back to NA soon after!

I understand what you mean about using the Turbo to its fullest potential but the problem is that its too much power and that added power is wasted so poeple feel like they wasted their money on something that cant be used. But hey, its your car and you can do what you will with it.

When you get it done I want a ride!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

IDK it isn't gonna cost much really. I mean compared to what I am used to. I had a turbo Colt before making around 400whp. It was stupid on street tires, 85mph, still spinning. It was stupid.

True the power will only be utilized either on the highway, or the drag strip. It will be fun to play with supras, and z06s on the highway from 75mph roles, on BFGs in a spray painted POS FWD Honda. I will probably never really get into it on the street too much u know around town, low speeds, and no slicks means u are not moving.