<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the center section separated and it had 19 miles on it no ****</TD></TR></TABLE>

the input shaft spline?

def a manufacturer defect. it would have been covered and replaced rather quickly had he contacted teh right people and not the guy who sold it.

matt's xtd is still in his posession because teh actual manufacturer won't aknowledge his proof of purchase since it was an ebay buy.

are xtd's even available anywhere besides ebay?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the input shaft spline?

def a manufacturer defect. it would have been covered and replaced rather quickly had he contacted teh right people and not the guy who sold it.

matt's xtd is still in his posession because teh actual manufacturer won't aknowledge his proof of purchase since it was an ebay buy.

are xtd's even available anywhere besides ebay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no where it rivets together

I know sux hes out the $ from it and buying another clutch

i dont think they are

thanks for looking out for me
but this **** is disposable to me ive been everywhere but K LAND and all this thing has to do is get me from point A to point B till I get there. if it craps ill go get a RAM from advance auto parts lol


Modified by CBEengineering at 1:31 AM 1/22/2007

 

i put one of those rams in a while ago in a dudes car.

it's actually a valeo clutch.

junk. valeo is oe kia and small gm ****.

i'mn strange when it comes to stuff i put in/on my cars. i have to fix this crap 8-10 hours a day for everyone else so when it comes to my stuff i like to only do it once ever. if i ever put a clutch in my 4dr (it;s at 170k now) it will be an exedy oe just because i trust them and their warranty.

i have replaced numerous valeo clutches at as little as 3000 miles on brand new kias at work. to em that says to avaoid tehm like the plague.

as far as teh engine cutaway...cbe poipnted out teh manifold. it appears to be an R engine. so def not ef related.

 

just watched loose change holy moly. anyway my car needs a clutch but it's 700$ parts and labour and a b16 swap was 2500. it only made sense to get the B because the d16 is burning oil .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team-savage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just watched loose change holy moly. anyway my car needs a clutch but it's 700$ parts and labour and a b16 swap was 2500. it only made sense to get the B because the d16 is burning oil .</TD></TR></TABLE>

I made a post about it in GDD it got locked in 6 posts 3 mins i think lol
yeah holy moly

 

hmmm is that a hint to stop talking about it lol.

 

yes, leave loose change for GDD. im back guys. i made it back in one piece. on the way down, i saw an early 90s camaro on fire near fresno.

 

Word up fakesi-r. Where've you been at lately? Working alot?

 

how long should i wait to wash my car. the guy at the shop said 24hrs from last night at 6. the fender was ready saturday, should i still wait 'cuz i really wanna wash it and wax it and take it about town.

 

I would give it another day depending on how cold it is and if they baked the car or not. Make sure you don't use a brush on it or you will probably get swirl marks. I always use the hand mit and have zero swirls.

 

Last car I had they said to wait a couple of days....I'd go by the advice the body shop says though. It probably depends on the weather as well

 

word to your moms white bread.


yeah...it finally got busy again so i am busting *** to catch up on some old ****. wrapping up some old sidework too. all i have left ot do that is major is a tbelt in a legend and i am don't have anymore saturday **** for a while.

then the sitting around the garage can resume. maybe i'll start justins car this weekend.

 

Damn it I wish someone would buy my eg already... and that I could find a decent ef around here...

 

it's like 0 degreese celsius. i want to wash and wax right meow!

 

back on topic lol

i just found some old pics of my car from the 1st day i got my camera..as u can see i still had alot to learn then

 

that's not so bad. i like it. man this thread is slow today.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team-savage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's not so bad. i like it. man this thread is slow today.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea well i just got off work. whats up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team-savage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long should i wait to wash my car. the guy at the shop said 24hrs from last night at 6. the fender was ready saturday, should i still wait 'cuz i really wanna wash it and wax it and take it about town. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would wait at least 48 hours to wash it because if you leave the water on it for to long the minerals from the water will etch the paint. As for waxing it shouldnt be waxed for about a month. This is generally how it takes urethane paints to fully cure.

 

If the shop told you to wait however long than listen to that. If the car was baked than you can wash it soon after. We get done painting cars and they are sent right to recon. Only because our jobs are baked.

As for waxing you should wait a month or so. Reason being the wax might trap solvents and cause solvent pop. So wait a while to wax.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would wait at least 48 hours to wash it because if you leave the water on it for to long the minerals from the water will etch the paint. As for waxing it shouldnt be waxed for about a month. This is generally how it takes urethane paints to fully cure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

2 more new developments in the chad paint saga.

1. my T-bar is being powdercoated "chrome" and my bay is being painted. no bareness, i dont want corrosion issues

2. i had the HOK black mixed to be flamenco black pearl off the 99-00 SI. that way my car is 2 tone with 2 honda colors.


mekanism i have a question. i was told that mixing a little clear in with the initial color coat, as well as doing 2 coats of clear afterward would give the c olor more shine.


any truth to that? this **** is taking forever, the only thing that is keeping me going is my vision of the finished product making 17 yr old "jdm" kids go "dat shitz tiiite dawg"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike9571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the shop told you to wait however long than listen to that. If the car was baked than you can wash it soon after. We get done painting cars and they are sent right to recon. Only because our jobs are baked.

As for waxing you should wait a month or so. Reason being the wax might trap solvents and cause solvent pop. So wait a while to wax.</TD></TR></TABLE>

have you guys seen that new eagle i believe it is, clear wax? its like armor all for your paint. im not sure of the protection qualities but holy jesus nothing can compare to the shine. its very thin, a little thicker than water and as clear as water.

is there ANYTHING you can do to protect it in the first month? i live in the desert.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

2 more new developments in the chad paint saga.

1. my T-bar is being powdercoated "chrome" and my bay is being painted. no bareness, i dont want corrosion issues

2. i had the HOK black mixed to be flamenco black pearl off the 99-00 SI. that way my car is 2 tone with 2 honda colors.


mekanism i have a question. i was told that mixing a little clear in with the initial color coat, as well as doing 2 coats of clear afterward would give the c olor more shine.


any truth to that? this **** is taking forever, the only thing that is keeping me going is my vision of the finished product making 17 yr old "jdm" kids go "dat shitz tiiite dawg"</TD></TR></TABLE>

No dont do that. The basecoat is supposed to look dull after its sprayed. Just wait till your done getting base down, then spray your clear. Ive never heard such a thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike9571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No dont do that. The basecoat is supposed to look dull after its sprayed. Just wait till your done getting base down, then spray your clear. Ive never heard such a thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

me neither. sounded like bullshit but i just wanted to verify before i waved my big *** BS flag.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

have you guys seen that new eagle i believe it is, clear wax? its like armor all for your paint. im not sure of the protection qualities but holy jesus nothing can compare to the shine. its very thin, a little thicker than water and as clear as water.

is there ANYTHING you can do to protect it in the first month? i live in the desert.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wont use ANYTHING silicone based to clean my cars just incase anything needs painted (silicone is paints worst enemy). during the month or so you cant wax your car nothing will be affected so theres nothing to worry about.

 

Chad dude ur dumb, u tell everyone ur ideas. Keep that to yaself.