"..and right now, right now its time to........kick out the jams mother fuccckkkkeerrrr!!!!!"

-Wayne Kramer (MC5)

 

and when u are buffing do it in 2*2 squares. when u start with the polishing compound get a spary bottle with water and mist the pad I use a foam polishing pad and the surface

 

i have a question regarding painting. So i basically strip my car down with sandpaper, till its smooth, primer it, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 2-3 base coats, let dry, sand again, 1500 then 3000, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish?

Is this right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by URBAN TANK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and when u are buffing do it in 2*2 squares. when u start with the polishing compound get a spary bottle with water and mist the pad I use a foam polishing pad and the surface </TD></TR></TABLE>

the flamenco off the 99-00SI which is whats going on my hood has a red and sivler metal flake in it. so im going to nail down the polishing real hardcore to make it stand out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question regarding painting. So i basically strip my car down with sandpaper, till its smooth, primer it, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 2-3 base coats, let dry, sand again, 1500 then 3000, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish?

Is this right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you forgot the clearcoat.

ohhhhh lookee lookee

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question regarding painting. So i basically strip my car down with sandpaper, till its smooth, primer it, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 2-3 base coats, let dry, sand again, 1500 then 3000, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish?

Is this right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eh thats makes it sound alot easier than what it really is. For some reason which i will never understand is why everyone thinks you have to prime the entire car before base. The ONLY areas that usually need primed are bare metal/plastic spots and where theres filler. Where ever your spraying base(color) you can sand with 400.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you forgot the clearcoat.

ohhhhh lookee lookee
</TD></TR></TABLE>

looks similar to my color on the teg. Milano with gold pearl...

 

quick question, can you put a vss in a 90 crx si tranny? i want a gsr cluster and was wondering. thanks. and that sunroof is the ****

 

i wanted mine to be flawlessly smooth so i did a coat of highfill primer, mixed it thick. block sanded the entire car.

then a sprayed it again with highfill, using the normal ratio. block sanded it with 500 wet that time.

used only one coat on the bumpers.


and so it sits awaiting its color coat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question regarding painting. So i basically strip my car down with sandpaper, till its smooth, primer it, sand it till its smooth, clean it, do 2-3 base coats, let dry, sand again, 1500 then 3000, use cutiing compound, then a good poishing compound, and lastly use a real good hand polish?

Is this right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

U got to clear it frist put at least 3 coats and rember when u are sanding try not to sand the edges or any points because u will sand through

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was gonna hit it with ebony and a spongeroo at like 2200rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>

teh lsat step it is better to hand sand u will get out all teh swirl marks and fine scratches

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wanted mine to be flawlessly smooth so i did a coat of highfill primer, mixed it thick. block sanded the entire car.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>


U got to watch out making the primer too thick it shrinks over time and the thicker it is the more it will shrink and the 80 grit or 100 grit scratches will come back over time

Like mike said there is no need to prime the whole car unless u want to block teh whole car to get out any road waves ( R.W. are the normal waves u get from daily driven from teh body flexing and twisting from bumps and other things ) But they will come back unless u never drive the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ohhhhh lookee lookee
</TD></TR></TABLE>

love teh C.F. sunroof plugs

 

Are you going to seal the surface with epoxy primer before adding basecoat. If not, it would be a good idea. I would spray 2 coats of epoxy primer/sealer then wet sand again when cured for a final surface prep.

Also, you can get away with only spraying 2 coats of base but 3 is better, it depends on the color. If you are sparying a darker base than 2 is fine but a lighter color you may get color variations from the primer substrate.

I dont know who told you add clear to the base but that defeats the purpose of a 2 stage paint sytem. A single stage paint system is basically a base mixed with the clear, hence single stage, both are applied at the same time for a quicker process. However, single stage paints generally dont have the luster of a high quality 2 stage base and clear.

Just spray 3 coats of base with 15min.(more or less depending on temp and reducer) between crosscoats. Wait an hour or so and spray the clear. I would spray 3 coats of clear and let that cure for 2 days since its cold, wetsand with 800, then respray 1-2 more coats of clear to final it out. Normally the extra step isnt needed if you have a really good booth setup, but I'm assuming you dont have a $100k booth so you will need the extra mil thickness of paint to sand the imperfections out.

Also when you are spraying the coats of paints dont go too haevy or it will have the wavy paint effect that you see on most high production oem paint jobs. If you want the glass look you have to spay multiple light coats. If the surface isnt shiny when you are done spraying than that is good. Even after the clear is on if you can get the final result to look like sand paper than that is good. It makes it more flat after you color sand. Simply hit it with 2000 grit and buff and it will look like glass!

 

sanding epoxy primer is like sanding concrete ther is no need for 2 coats the thicker the paint coverge is the more problems u will have latter on

And with the 2 or 3 coats of base i always over do to make sure it is covered

It looks like u are sparying metalic so with that i spary 4 coats the frist 3 are sparyed normal and the last coat is dry sparyed on to flow the metalic out so it dont look cloudy


And so u know 75% of the dirt in the paint comes out of the car not the booth I can get just as clean of a job in a dirt floored barn as i can a a 100k paint booth. The better the tape job the better the paint job seal all the cracks and jams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as i sat looking at the general populous of cars the other day i got sick. every ************ on here drives the same god damn car. CF hood, towhooks, dumped on some type of SSR wheel. slanted stickers.

i am the cure for the common HT piece of ****, without being rice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I feel the same way. I drive my crx hard. It was a daily driver, but i still used it for many Auto-X events and drag raced that car for 3yrs until I finally blew the motor. Now time to rebuild, and do it all over again.

Hopefully it will be back on the road late this spring.

 

the must be primered 100%.. if not the unprimered areas can result in a different shade of color. depending on how transparent the bc is. primer only needs one coat coverage. you have to guide coat that car and block it to get rid of any imperfections.. this can get really detailed, so i'll keep it short.

-wetsand primer with 400-600 grit
-degrease the surface and tack it
-spray the primer sealer on and let flash
-hit up the car with a light 1st coat let flash 5 min
-second bc go for full coverage let flash
-tack surface and shoot with clear. get low and fast, maintain a uniform distance.(minimize orange peal)
second coat clear do the same thing. depending on what booth ya got, bake the ****!!

 

vss in my 90 crx si tranny anyone?

 

i got rack'd

 

Chad you need to get a sticker made consisting of only this...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1428294

have it run along your window really tiny or something....because you sir own this thread..

 

ok so no wax for a month. i gotta wash it every 2nd day or my rust will grow! during a b16 swap what kind of random parts will i run into the need of. how much money should i set aside during the swap. you should probly get started on that build thread chad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 408wdy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the must be primered 100%.. if not the unprimered areas can result in a different shade of color. depending on how transparent the bc is. primer only needs one coat coverage. you have to guide coat that car and block it to get rid of any imperfections.. this can get really detailed, so i'll keep it short.

-wetsand primer with 400-600 grit
-degrease the surface and tack it
-spray the primer sealer on and let flash
-hit up the car with a light 1st coat let flash 5 min
-second bc go for full coverage let flash
-tack surface and shoot with clear. get low and fast, maintain a uniform distance.(minimize orange peal)
second coat clear do the same thing. depending on what booth ya got, bake the ****!!</TD></TR></TABLE>


there is no need to prime the whole car that is what the sealer is for to cover the car so the base cover is consitantly

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^hey kurt thanks for upping my post count


everything he said though I can vouch for or back up cause Ive dont it too and
seen it too...we can paint a car in a dirt floor barn and comes out like glass.
thats to all the whiners bitching about my shop/wood shop. my teg and kurts EG were painted in there and they looked like if not better than an OEM paint job

 

Can I use 8ga. car stereo power wire to ground my tranny and valve cover, or do I need actual grounding cables?

 

yeah thattl work I do it on all my cars