<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha hahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!111111111111!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!11!!1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh yeah what did you use to tie down your battery box. I haven't been able to figure anything out yet??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bought a tiny battery box from some online marine parts store, then used j-hooks from summit, circular backing plates, and a cheap summit batter tie down.

Drill two holes in trunk and you're done. It's nice and solid.

 

Skunk 2 coming up clutch!





The parts look great, great quality!
the only thing they are still sending is the upper camber arms! And let me tell you, the price was right
-Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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Happy to see you had a great time, how did the engine feel?

 

His car ran great man!


Modified by Rywire at 11:39 AM 4/1/2008


Modified by Rywire at 12:01 PM 4/1/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the fix for a code 9? Cyl. #1 position I think. I am converted obd1. Running a base b16 map in a p28. I bought a obd1 distributor. Could I have a wire crossed going to the distr. plug? I replaced the plug on the harness side with and obd1 plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anybody? Could it be a bad distributor from Dist. King?

Nick, what header are you running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

next time you remove them best bet is to take off the door cards and release the clips from the inside</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just get a thin plastic putty knife and you can get it between the door and the molding. That way you can press down on the clip and not have to remove your door panels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">\


Nice times man, so whats the next upgrade to cut those seconds off? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya know....thats what i've always loved about road racing. you dont have to do any more modifications to cut some seconds off. Just adjust driving techniques and practice. he's already seen that his car is capable of at least a 2:01. thats 5 seconds faster that he can work on....for free. without modifications. i like that about the sport.

 

Just ordered a new pass side side skirt and lower door trim for the crx.

The previous owner did a sneaky repair, nothing major, actually hid nicely and i need to definatele replace the lower door piece. theskirt i just want to cause there is some kind of gunk stuck on there that seems baked in now.

EDIT: BTW we should see if we can get some guys together to do an EF track day for those who actually want to see what all this building will really do. Lord knows we have enough people even locally.




Modified by RSZero1 at 2:51 PM 4/1/2008

 

Hey guys, if anyone is interested in getting into the HID game:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2265682

Just need to upload the pictures later tonight

 

joe "ninja turtle" skreetwerkez i needs to talk to you asap PM me!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">joe "ninja turtle" skreetwerkez i needs to talk to you asap PM me!</TD></TR></TABLE>

skeet skeet skeet

 

Nickrps is famous

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, if anyone is interested in getting into the HID game:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2265682

Just need to upload the pictures later tonight </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ima use that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ima use that!</TD></TR></TABLE>i figgured id try it too

but i need some ZC headlights

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OBlgSz8sSM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shame on you for messing up your mouldings

next time you remove them best bet is to take off the door cards and release the clips from the inside</TD></TR></TABLE>you would think that that would be the obvious way of going about it but it doesn't work that way. When you take the door panels off there is a "crash beam" on the inside that covers the clips. The moldings are made to be taken off from the outside. You have to be gentle and take your time because when you get frustarated and say "FAWK IT" and start breaking the clips thinking you will just replace them you will end up bending the moldings easily.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you would think that that would be the obvious way of going about it but it doesn't work that way. When you take the door panels off there is a "crash beam" on the inside that covers the clips. The moldings are made to be taken off from the outside. You have to be gentle and take your time because when you get frustarated and say "FAWK IT" and start breaking the clips thinking you will just replace them you will end up bending the moldings easily. </TD></TR></TABLE>i was gonna say that but my brain farted

 

Unless u have 88/JDM doors. Then the clips are visable with the door panel off.

 

lucky.......


frickin ownage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ima use that!</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i figgured id try it too

but i need some ZC headlights</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pics are up, but my instructions probably suck. Kinda hard to describe something you just spontaneously decided to do one day because everything was in front of you and there was nothing else to do

 

I started playing with something similar about a year ago. I bought a set of the "projector" headlights from ebay, and was trying to replace the clear glass with the fluted OEM glass. I kinda mocked it up, but like stated before the cutoff looked shitty.

They did look badass during the day...

I have a less than perfect set of Zc headlights that I may attempt to sanding a circle in the fluting. In the meantime, I'm subscribing to that thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless u have 88/JDM doors. Then the clips are visable with the door panel off. </TD></TR></TABLE>


are you saying 88 usdm doors AND JDM? i have 88 USDM doors and they have the side impact beam in place...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHC_C-REX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


are you saying 88 usdm doors AND JDM? i have 88 USDM doors and they have the side impact beam in place...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't matter. Do what I suggested and you will be fine. And start at the handle side.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just get a thin plastic putty knife and you can get it between the door and the molding. That way you can press down on the clip and not have to remove your door panels. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Now who wants to help me with my CEL code #9?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Doesn't matter. Do what I suggested and you will be fine. And start at the handle side.

Now who wants to help me with my CEL code #9?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you just do a multi swap? If so, i would check the wiring, if not i would change the dissy.

 

I had a an obd0 b16 for awhile. Ran fine. No codes. Now I've converted to obd1 with a ecu jumper harness, and I bought a new obd1 dizzy from Distributor King. I wired on an obd1 distributor plug, instead of getting a jumper harness. Everything is obd1 except the b16 IM/TB. I'm running a base map chip in my p28. I will dyno tune it once I work this issue out.

I did the obd1 conversion while I was swapping in a b18c bottom end.