yeah, the set i installed a while back on a car worked great though.. cheap, but not the worst ebay coils i've ever seen

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Use washers on your mounts to shim the motor down a bit </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to cut some of the webbing in the hood first. Ground clearance is important.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used SEM 2-part epoxy to fill in the holes, scraps, etc. I scuffed everything with a green Scotch-brite pad. Wiped it all down with rubbing alcohol. Used SEM adhesion promotor and Bondo Bumper Black. I followed the directions on both cans and it seems to be durable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anybody know anything about "dropzone" coilovers? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't get junk coilovers. I had "maxspeed" coilovers with kyb gr2 shocks on my crx and it rode terrible. Either spend the money and get decent coilovers or just get springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just a deck and four moderate speakers. Other than that, i have no heat no ac and just an ecu wideband and avcr. If i let my crx sit for &gt;1.5 weeks that battery would drop to 7-8 volts. I let it sit for 6 months with the oem battery and started right up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2. When i had my oddy battery, if i left it sit for more than a couple days it would lose the charge. When i buy the next one i have a disconnect switch to throw on too. Hopefully that & a legit battery warranty will help

 

mine sat for a few months before and still started up fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFerris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine sat for a few months before and still started up fine</TD></TR></TABLE>


Cause your sofaking special

Mine sucks *****

 

Which odyssey are you guys using, standard, 680T or 680MJT?

I pulled the batteries for my Civic and CRX cause they were both dead. Went to Autozone, they tested them and said they could be recharged - then I go to pick them up and they say both are bad? WTF?!

I took the better looking one and left one there.

Anyway, I need at least one replacement and I was thinking about the Odyssey, Optima or Deka if I can find one.

 

Hey guys.. does anyone know what could be draining my battery? If I leave my car off but the stereo on for more than 5 minutes my car won't start without a boost. The battery is only a year old (from Honda).. the only thing I have hooked up to the battery is my crappy-tire fogs and my amp/sub. Basically I can't chill with the radio on with the car off.. although before I could no problem.... The fogs can be turned on with the car off so I'm thinking maybe the fogs are slowly draining the battery? My amp is only a 100watt (oldschool amp from the 90s) and I have a small 8" sub..

Also, I spent my saturday changing my rear drums and drum shoes. man.. WHAT A BITCH drum brakes are...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rayzian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys.. does anyone know what could be draining my battery? If I leave my car off but the stereo on for more than 5 minutes my car won't start without a boost. The battery is only a year old (from Honda).. the only thing I have hooked up to the battery is my crappy-tire fogs and my amp/sub. Basically I can't chill with the radio on with the car off.. although before I could no problem.... The fogs can be turned on with the car off so I'm thinking maybe the fogs are slowly draining the battery? My amp is only a 100watt (oldschool amp from the 90s) and I have a small 8" sub..</TD></TR></TABLE>has this only been happening recently, or ever since you got the battery in the first place?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rayzian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I spent my saturday changing my rear drums and drum shoes. man.. WHAT A BITCH drum brakes are...</TD></TR></TABLE> I hear that!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the key for a pc 680 is to have a disconnect switch. It seems when the car sits, the minor drain just kills them </TD></TR></TABLE>


TOOO TRUE!!!

I am getting a replacement from Summit in the coming week, so if anyone wants it, I'll sell it to you for $75 plus shipping. It's the odyssey PC680. I'll also give you all the warranty info so you can use it if you need to. All they ask for is your phone number and invoice and name. Use my name, tell them to change the address and phone #.

 

Can anyone help my boy out please????

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HBK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A6 block with y8 head.

OEM Waterpump is 8 months old, as well as timing belt. Waterpump does not leak.

Timing belt tensioner/spring is used. Mileage unknown.

Valves have been adjusted.

Symptoms:

On a cold start, the engine will make a ticking/rattling noise and it sounds like its either under the valve cover, or behind the lower timing belt cover. It's loud enough to hear pretty well inside the car. It does not go away after the car is warm.

Also, when I rev in neutral, the car makes a very loud clank. The best noise I could describe is if you smacked a ratchet/hammer against the crank pulley. It does this 3 times out of 10 when I rev.

When I was doing the valves, I was hand turning the motor and I could hear a very slight ping from it as it turned. Very hard to say where exactly. So what would make a ping noise when the engine turns that slow? Head internals?

So far, I have removed the alternator belt to make sure its not the alternator. Still makes the noise.

Valves have been checked.

The timing belt looks like its vibrating a tad. My guess is its the timing belt tensioner/spring, but I do not want to start ripping off my crank pulley and lower timing belt cover to just get no answers.


Can anyone help me pin point this problem?

After searching, It seems it could be:

1. Tensioner Symptoms: Whining/rubbing
2. Waterpump: Whining/rubbing
3. Head internals...

What makes a metalic clanking noise at revs, and rattles at idle? I'm going nuts and refuse to take my car to a half-*** mechanic. I put the damn motor together!

Thanks for any input.

Modified by HBK at 11:09 AM 3/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HBK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vids


Video 1: Rattle
http://s16.photobucket.com/alb...9.flv

Video 2: Clank
http://s16.photobucket.com/alb...0.flv</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I used the Hawker (smaller version of the pc680) for a good 4 years in my daily driven CRX before it finally started to lose power. I've been using the pc680 for over a year now with no problems at all. [shrugs]

 

My pc680 is holding up fine.

Anyone know if dry cells are affected by cold weather?

 

what headers are you krx guys using? i was planning on running the SSR header, but i've done some research and it seems they dont make anymore power than the DC header when used with an internally stock setup....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2_teg_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what headers are you krx guys using? i was planning on running the SSR header, but i've done some research and it seems they dont make anymore power than the DC header when used with an internally stock setup.... </TD></TR></TABLE>


I originally had the DC header, but once i decided to do cams and ITB's i figured i'd pay the extra cash for the Danny Tran header. (SSR/DTR)

 

i'm going full custom for my header... not really sure how the ssr/dtr header will fit with my rhd.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone help my boy out please????

</TD></TR></TABLE>


videos don't work

 

My pc680 is holding up fine.

Anyone know if dry cells are affected by cold weather?

[/QUOTE]

a mechanic up where i live says gel cells are affected, but pc680's are dry right?

 

What can I use to restore the black color on my splash gaurds? I was thinking maybe tire shine. I also thought about using bumper black, but I figured it would flake off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pandarex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My pc680 is holding up fine.

Anyone know if dry cells are affected by cold weather?

a mechanic up where i live says gel cells are affected, but pc680's are dry right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

pc680's are dry cell batteries, but like any other battery are affected by extreme temps. However, in Cali at least you'll never reach those extreme operational temperature limits . Now in Montreal or somewhere with severe cold conditions during winter; there may be a problem...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I originally had the DC header, but once i decided to do cams and ITB's i figured i'd pay the extra cash for the Danny Tran header. (SSR/DTR)</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, im trying to decide now. theres really no way i'm gonna do any internal work on the engine this spring/summer/fall. at the soonest, it'll be next winter. And from the dyno charts i see, the DC header makes just as much power as the SSR when the internals are stock. It seems like if i buy the DC Header, i'll be just as happy this year and i'll have more money for the other things i wanna do this summer like suspension.

I'm interested in your opinion?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2_teg_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yea, im trying to decide now. theres really no way i'm gonna do any internal work on the engine this spring/summer/fall. at the soonest, it'll be next winter. And from the dyno charts i see, the DC header makes just as much power as the SSR when the internals are stock. It seems like if i buy the DC Header, i'll be just as happy this year and i'll have more money for the other things i wanna do this summer like suspension.

I'm interested in your opinion?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why buy a part twice? If you are gonna do internal work, maybe not now, but later, get the right header. If you're gonna leave it alone, then just do the DC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why buy a part twice? If you are gonna do internal work, maybe not now, but later, get the right header. If you're gonna leave it alone, then just do the DC.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I agree. for the price, the DC header is a really good piece and its 3 times less than the SSR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why buy a part twice? If you are gonna do internal work, maybe not now, but later, get the right header. If you're gonna leave it alone, then just do the DC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats usually the theory i have. but the problem is that the car will be driven on a regular basis. By the time im ready to do the headwork, i'm sure i wouldnt mind upgrading the header at the same time. im pretty sure the DC Sports header is for me right now. Because i'm really not even sure if i'll upgrade the head or not. like i said, once the car runs, the engine bay will pretty much drop to last on my list of things to upgrade. just maintenance and suspension.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2_teg_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats usually the theory i have. but the problem is that the car will be driven on a regular basis. By the time im ready to do the headwork, i'm sure i wouldnt mind upgrading the header at the same time. im pretty sure the DC Sports header is for me right now. Because i'm really not even sure if i'll upgrade the head or not. like i said, once the car runs, the engine bay will pretty much drop to last on my list of things to upgrade. just maintenance and suspension.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the money go with the DC...how can you justify spending twice that for a few more HP.