<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Redline Super Light-Weight Shock Proof fixed my old cable trans. Now I run Redline MTF in my hydro box.

Gay Voice: Loooooooooooves it! </TD></TR></TABLE>

where can one purchase this ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for people having 2-3 3-4 grinding issues with their transvestites...


try replacing the trans oil with GM SYNCROMESH</TD></TR></TABLE>

adding fluid that masks a grind is just a band-aid not a repair.

out of sight out of mind?


(taking notes as to who is masking their grinds to remind myself NOT to purchase a car or trans from any of you. )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

adding fluid that masks a grind is just a band-aid not a repair.

out of sight out of mind?


(taking notes as to who is masking their grinds to remind myself NOT to purchase a car or trans from any of you. ) </TD></TR></TABLE>


is it better then buying a whole new trans? I agree totally repairing the problem is the best way to go.... However when the option is scrap the current trans and buy another used one is the persons only option...This is a great temp fix... Its a "band aid" that apparently last a long time (3+ years for me) and probally longer... but I went with the "totally repairing the problem" route...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gospeedgo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have tried the GM syncromesh with good results also. recently switched back to honda MTF and notchiness came back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive experienced the same **** in my Hondas and others.

People run the GM stuff in lots of cars, NOT just GM's. There is a reason for that. Its GREAT stuff.

 

is it really maintaining the car and lessening the grind issue or keeping the car quiet?


we need gearspeedef7 in here to elaborate on the situation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it really maintaining the car and lessening the grind issue or keeping the car quiet?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have not seen it quiet anything like bearing issues, only alleviate the grinding (if it exists) and make things feel overall 'smoother.' Someone told me it was recommended by a known bmw tuner that he run it with a mix of another fluid in his m coupe. Like i said, a bunch of folks seem to use and love it.

 

my tranny rarely grinds. only once in a great while if i am slamming gears (acting like a dumbass). by quiet, i mean smoother shifting, and quieter while cruising on the freeway (always feel i can hear the tranny, but may be my worn tires actually). also, using fluid to increase the life of my transmission (by decreasing further wear). my tranny is notchy on colder morning, days, but it is more then likely just the fluid. im not really using it as a band-aid as implied above like my tranny is grinding like crazy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it really maintaining the car and lessening the grind issue or keeping the car quiet?


we need gearspeedef7 in here to elaborate on the situation. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wheres he at..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it really maintaining the car and lessening the grind issue or keeping the car quiet?


we need gearspeedef7 in here to elaborate on the situation. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I spoke with Jamez (gearspeedef7) when he rebuilt my trans...I dont want to mis-quote him here...but basically he said something go the effect of your band aid statement...


its one of those things... yeah its not the best option...but is a very affordable one...

as far as keeping things quiet? I dont know about that...but lessening the grind...in my experience it lessened to the point wear it was completely unnoticeable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone else getting sick of looking on websites for EF parts and no one updating things?

I went to ICB/JDM Land and almost every wheel and/or ef part is sold out, with no planed eta's - so why keep them listed?

If it's for reference - move it to another page, then you can see what is actually still avail.

I dunno, just bugs me sometimes.</TD></TR></TABLE>


do you enjoy getting raped for prices??

If you need a wheel hit up either me or Oppssum jenkins
if you are looking for local wheels already imported w/out all the "because I can fee's" then
rbmotoring.com
takaumiproject.com


and I look forward to reading all this tranny grind talk later
always the biggest lied about issue ever

 

so what is it when you gear slides out while on turns??

I guess people calling it poping out but mine slides out
its very sneaky because sometimes I never even knew it happen

 

oh yeah BTW

I need measurements on motor position


I need to know how far forward these mounts sit your B series motor
Innovative
Hasport
AZ racing
HCP
Avid Racing
(if there are any other mounts out there you can post those too)

I need to know which has the motor closest to the firewall

I would say measure from Head to T-bar
If anyone wants to help

sorry been @ work all day and trying to get all this stuff off my plate before I start working on the car again.
Trying to delete doing stuff twice again like last time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah BTW

I need to know which has the motor closest to the firewall


</TD></TR></TABLE>

y?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah BTW


I need to know which has the motor closest to the firewall

</TD></TR></TABLE>
boost?

 

just answer the freakin question geeze

 

I think its not worth worrying about. Pretty much all the mounts on the market today are copies or close copies of the next. The old *** mount kits are what u should be interested in, u know the ones that are designed like ****?

 

just get a dc2 integra mount welded to the ef frame rail.
i gotta get the paperweight tuned before summer

 

With my AZ mounts the engine sits as far back as possible because you run into clearance issues with the tranny and the rear crossmember. There literally is only a 1/4" clearance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 408wdy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a dc2 integra mount welded to the ef frame rail.
i gotta get the paperweight tuned before summer
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.

 

As mentioned above...it is merely a band-aid to mask the problem. There is no fluid that will magically put the missing metal particles back on your gear and sleeve assembly.

Remember back in the days...You know your skateboard wheels would get wet and you would totally kill the bearings enough to where they were noisy as heck...Well what did most of us kids do?? We through some WD-40 on those things and called it a day. What happened a few days later?? noise came right on back. Same thing but, just on a bigger scale! No fluid will magically repair a transmission but, it will mask it until some of us can scrape up some cash to have it fixed. The best thing to do is ulitmately: fix it asap. But, we are not all made of money and we all don't work at a trans shop

Hope that helps guys!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it'll happen

 

So why does the Gm fluid make the trans feel like it was the fluid it should have came with from the factory? It just feels silky smooth (even if u dont have grinds)after u swap in the good stuff, lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So why does the Gm fluid make the trans feel like it was the fluid it should have came with from the factory? It just feels silky smooth (even if u dont have grinds)after u swap in the good stuff, lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Im curious as to what the exact reason are too...but right now this is my opinion of the whole syncromesh topic

Would I use in my new fully rebuilt trans with no grinds?
NO.
Would I use in a used, multi-mile trans with grinds?
YES.

 

I must be the only one who didnt notice a difference with using gm in my j1 tranny. For a while I thought my tranny was screwed up but it turns out I just needed a new clutch cable and more adjustment. At $30+ a quart the gm synchromesh isnt worth it to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I must be the only one who didnt notice a difference with using gm in my j1 tranny. For a while I thought my tranny was screwed up but it turns out I just needed a new clutch cable and more adjustment. At $30+ a quart the gm synchromesh isnt worth it to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what!!!!????

**** is way cheaper than that if you get it at dealer net.


as far as why it feels smoother-viscosity and the base petroleum it is made from.