2 things:


#1 Does anybody know by looking at these which are 88/89 and which are 90/91? I'm about 90% sure that the top ones are for the 90/91. I held them up to my bumper, and I had a hard time telling, but the top ones seem to line up better. The main difference is the amount of material above where it says Honda.


#2 My new ride

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 things:


#1 Does anybody know by looking at these which are 88/89 and which are 90/91? I'm about 90% sure that the top ones are for the 90/91. I held them up to my bumper, and I had a hard time telling, but the top ones seem to line up better. The main difference is the amount of material above where it says Honda.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The tops look different...so maybe those are the '88-89? The '90-91 flaps I have look like the bottom ones and don't fit on my '88 (of course). If you don't want those '88-89 flaps, I CALL DIBS!!!

Nice road bike, btw! I used to cycle and got stuck today for 1/2 an hour watching the tour de California go by...all by accident when picking up my trailer!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice daily, nicer trailer!

i'd love to have one that low. we're building one that low someday</TD></TR></TABLE>

why build one that low-get these:
http://www.raceramps.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=73

guy that owns the company/makes these/invented/patented is a coworker's uncle. we have a set at work for lowered cars so you can drive up to get the car just high enough to swing the hoist arms under. durable as hell and pretty affordable for what they are. the little ones we have cost 89 bucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why build one that low-get these:
http://www.raceramps.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=73

guy that owns the company/makes these/invented/patented is a coworker's uncle. we have a set at work for lowered cars so you can drive up to get the car just high enough to swing the hoist arms under. durable as hell and pretty affordable for what they are. the little ones we have cost 89 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are cool and all, but at almost $300, it's just one more expensive piece to lug around. If you buy a used trailer with short ramps or no drop axles, I could see getting those, but I was able to order what I wanted

 

those aluminum steelies are pretty nice. do you guys think that the honda wheel cylinders are worth the 30 honda charges or should i just go with beck arnley? also, anyone using motul fluids in their EF?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gospeedgo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those aluminum steelies are pretty nice. do you guys think that the honda wheel cylinders are worth the 30 honda charges or should i just go with beck arnley? also, anyone using motul fluids in their EF?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used motul brake fluid once...and for some reason, it turned my fluid black like it was eating my lines. I use ATE Super Blue and ATE Typ 200 now. The difference in boiling points is minimal and it's HALF the cost of Motul.

 

Wow $289. Looks like something I can make out of plywood!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow $289. Looks like something I can make out of plywood!</TD></TR></TABLE>

non marring, non slip.

same price as alum trailer ramps and far safer and more durable.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Those are cool and all, but at almost $300, it's just one more expensive piece to lug around. If you buy a used trailer with short ramps or no drop axles, I could see getting those, but I was able to order what I wanted </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's the beauty of your situation. if you have an enclosed trailer the ramp you get is that back door, and that is too short for most cars.

also, if you buy your trailer used or if your trailer is dual purpose ( a bobcat has more clearance/can clear a greater angle than most cars) you would need ramp extensions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you have an enclosed trailer the ramp you get is that back door, and that is too short for most cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I might need something like those in a few years when I upgrade to an enclosed trailer...and a Porsche 911 GT3

 

anyone purchased a 3rd gear synchros before for a y1, s1, j1 or ys1 cable tranny
if so how much did it cost??
TIA

 

gearspeedinc.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I might need something like those in a few years when I upgrade to an enclosed trailer...and a Porsche 911 GT3 </TD></TR></TABLE>RS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone purchased a 3rd gear synchros before for a y1, s1, j1 or ys1 cable tranny
if so how much did it cost??
TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>

you ahve multiple variants listed there. if you are referring to all jdm vtec gearsets you absolutely have to go through:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchMo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gearspeedinc.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are not avasilable stateside. and what is available if you went to a dealer is not going to fit as the us 90-91 cable trans have different diameter forks than the japanese counterpart. additionally ys1 has an entirely different style internally. ys1 is like a hydro tranny in it's own special case.

 

I'm just getting annoyed with all this BS tranny crap

if it wasn;t so heavy I would throw it @ someone
I hate when people lie when they sell ****.
Just tell the freakin truth about the crap you sell

Now I have to waste my money and time taking out a tranny replace gears that I was told were good.
Either that or buy another tranny from some1 else why the my transmission is being fixed, but then I risk ending up with another BS tranny that I'll be stuck with.

Not to mention I purchase a so-called USDM p30 ECU and when I open it the serial number on the mother board port says pr3...but the damn thing is a obd-1
And I'm wondering WTF
How the hell does something like that happen.
WTF didn't you just tell me what the hell you did with the ECU if anything.
The Date stamp on the ECU says 92 5 28.
And I'm confused about that because I thought all JDM ECU were smaller in shape and square.

I just want my motor properly running with out all this run around BS hype-beast sellsman crap.

/rant

 

so maybe some1 can help me settle this

ys1 came in both cable and hydro??
the only way to tell is if a ys1 w/ LS or b17 gearing is to open it or can use use the tag numbers on the transmission??
Does the coding ys1 only describe the casing of the transmission??

 

when my friend was looking for a tranny for his crx, he first bought a YS1 for around 500 shipped. got it, took it to a shop to get it checked out. they said the only thing good in it was pretty much the case. so screwed out of the $500, he then keeped looking for another tranny. found another YS1 for something like $450 shipped. got it, and it too was in terible shape. so out of almost $1000 he bought a LS tranny for a few hundo and traded my friend for his b16 tranny.....

he got screwed 2 times on trannys, i bought one LS tranny from a guy in washington for $150 shipped, and its in good shape thank god.... all u can really go by is a persons word and pray its good

 

You can put it in gear and spin the input shaft and count the revolutions of the diff to see what gears it has in it, but you can't tell the condition unless you open it up.

I don't know any other way to tell YS1 GSR transmissions and YS1 LS transmissions apart other than either spinning the gear or opening it up and counting teeth.

 

ys1 was cable only 92-93

the ecu you got was an obd1 integra xsi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you have an enclosed trailer the ramp you get is that back door, and that is too short for most cars.
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I've always wondered, when you drive a car into an enclosed trailer, how do you get out of the car since you can't open the doors?

About those splash gaurds....I'm fairly certain the top ones are the 90/91's that I bought from vegabox. I pulled a set off of an 88 hatch at a local junkyard, and the car was rusty as hell. I just noticed there is rust on the lower set. Hum. Nick, I think I have them sold, but if it falls through, they are yours. They are from a hatch though.

 

do anybody know if anybody makes better bushings for the inside portion (the pivots on the "bolts" of the UCA)? those are my real problem...i have aftermarket ones, and when i get on the brakes at autox or road course speed/force, they load up and "POP" .. the top of the spindle basically twists a little bit, because those bushings=kinda sucky compared to OEM

 

If you can't find something from Energy Suspension, maybe you need an Ingalls camber kit. It seems to me that the bushings in that kit are very hard

 

I'm leaving for cali in an hour. I just got the nod my bumper just cleared customs. Joe text me your addy so I can punch it in my GPS when I get the HF.