Holset users unite!
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From: charlotte, nc, open roads
Re: (Gold DA9)
sorry this is not true at all i spoke to holset and they noway only 35-40 the 50 or 55 comp will not fit nor bolt as it will not work stufffinng into the 40 turbin
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From: RIP Duke of Turbo, CA
Re: (Hulk22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hulk22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry this is not true at all i spoke to holset and they noway only 35-40 the 50 or 55 comp will not fit nor bolt as it will not work stufffinng into the 40 turbin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ummm, in english please.
Ummm, in english please.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Minnesota
Re: (HcOiNvDiAc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HcOiNvDiAc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you guys think a holset h1e is way too big for a y8 ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes sir!
yes sir!
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: northern, ma, US
Re: (Hulk22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hulk22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry this is not true at all i spoke to holset and they noway only 35-40 the 50 or 55 comp will not fit nor bolt as it will not work stufffinng into the 40 turbin</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh thats why its custom...check out some diesel sites...i forget the links but ive seen 50/55 compressor wheels...not turbine in hx35/40 housings...all custom machined...but sweet for stock turbo reg's at the track
heh thats why its custom...check out some diesel sites...i forget the links but ive seen 50/55 compressor wheels...not turbine in hx35/40 housings...all custom machined...but sweet for stock turbo reg's at the track
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Re: (drumking15)
Ive searched through this entire thread looking for an answer and dont think I found it. Im running an hx40 with the vband flanged compressor outlet. Im trying to figure out how im going to attach my intercooler pipe to the turbo. the flange doesnt appear to be a standard 2.5" vband and ive searched for hours on a holset specific clamp. I know that from the factory the turbo attached to vband'd outletpipe i just cant seem to find a link/pic of that pipe and the flange.
heres a pic just in case i didnt explain myself well: http://lotmeet.com/pictures/misc/vband.jpg
heres a pic just in case i didnt explain myself well: http://lotmeet.com/pictures/misc/vband.jpg
Re: (Krnbk2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Krnbk2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive searched through this entire thread looking for an answer and dont think I found it. Im running an hx40 with the vband flanged compressor outlet. Im trying to figure out how im going to attach my intercooler pipe to the turbo. the flange doesnt appear to be a standard 2.5" vband and ive searched for hours on a holset specific clamp. I know that from the factory the turbo attached to vband'd outletpipe i just cant seem to find a link/pic of that pipe and the flange.
heres a pic just in case i didnt explain myself well: http://lotmeet.com/pictures/misc/vband.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats just vband. You can weld a vband flange to the charge pipe and connect them that way or you can cut the vband off the comp housing and use standard couplers. if you can get it lined up right th evband is the best way to go. specially if your going to be running high boost. keeps the charge pipe from blowing off
heres a pic just in case i didnt explain myself well: http://lotmeet.com/pictures/misc/vband.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats just vband. You can weld a vband flange to the charge pipe and connect them that way or you can cut the vband off the comp housing and use standard couplers. if you can get it lined up right th evband is the best way to go. specially if your going to be running high boost. keeps the charge pipe from blowing off
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Re: (Turbo-LS)
ok so its just a standard 2 1/2" vband? I wasnt sure if it was a standard universal vband or if it was a propriteray vband made by holset. if thats the case than ill just order a a 2.5" vband flange for my intercooler piping
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,933
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From: northern, ma, US
Re: (Krnbk2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Krnbk2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive searched through this entire thread looking for an answer and dont think I found it. Im running an hx40 with the vband flanged compressor outlet. Im trying to figure out how im going to attach my intercooler pipe to the turbo. the flange doesnt appear to be a standard 2.5" vband and ive searched for hours on a holset specific clamp. I know that from the factory the turbo attached to vband'd outletpipe i just cant seem to find a link/pic of that pipe and the flange.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can do that or do what i did...get a hump coupling and really sqeeze it over the vband....the crimp the ever living crap out of it and make the vband be in the hump of the coupling...then attach such said charge piping...besdies your gonna wanna a really good coupling coming off the snail anyways so this worked very well for me...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can do that or do what i did...get a hump coupling and really sqeeze it over the vband....the crimp the ever living crap out of it and make the vband be in the hump of the coupling...then attach such said charge piping...besdies your gonna wanna a really good coupling coming off the snail anyways so this worked very well for me...
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From: edmo, AB, Canada
Re: (drumking15)
what i did with mine was put a sanding disc on an angle grinder and took down the v-band edge till it was just enough to act as a bead to hold the coupler/t-bolt from blowing off. its working good so far... another option would be to ground down the v-band flange and weld a small piece of 2.5" pipe w/a bead on it.
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From: bumfuck egypt, SD, US
Re: (blundar)
Originally Posted by blundar
dynoed a HY35 powered 84mm 9:1 LS/Vtec w/ GSR cams, Ferrea valvetrain, new-school SSAC manifold (the twisty-turny one), 3" DP, 3" exhaust no cat no resonator no muffler, stock B16 intake manifold, precision 880 injectors, 3bar MAP sensor, MSD 6AL, MSD wires, NGK 5672-9 gapped at .025"
Car was ******* weird on many counts.
almost certainly have some wastegate issues that got progressively worse - spool times got longer later in the session - weird. It's clearly visible in the dyno graphs. AVC-R was set to 3.0kg/cm2 and 90% duty cycle with training turned off (90% across board on solenoid duty in monitor mode) with 10psi spring in wastegate and saw a max of 22psi boost. Significant amount of boost falloff (2-4psi) at boost levels above 17psi. Go figure.
top end of the motor was decidedly lacking... Spent 5hrs on the car - more timing, less timing, leaner, richer... Didn't really go anywhere. Weird.
Car made 423whp / 350ft-lbs with a severely slipping clutch on 22psi - 93 octane pump gas
Car made 350whp / 300 ft-lbs on 16psi - 93 octane pump gas
Car made 330whp / 272 ft-lbs on 13psi - 93 octane pump gas
Car made 280whp / 223 ft-lbs on 8psi
Car made 181whp / ?? ft-lsb on 0 psi
Car tuned on a Dyno Dynamics Loading dyno. These are not dynojet figures. Do not compare them to dynojet figures if you are a numbers *****. Wastegate popped open with shop air, AFR and Timing tuned pretty extensively at 0psi. Timing / minor AFR adjustments at higher boost levels. FV+Gear Crome tools were damn ******* close once dialed in properly and boost comp applied / dialed in - so very few AFR adjustments were really needed. Shape of torque curve essentially unchanged from 0psi to 15psi (where clutch DEFINATELY started slipping) which is kinda odd... Normally see top end pick up considerably with boost.
92F degree ambient / 52% humidity. Standard SAE correction used (1.037 I believe???) Charge temps did not drop below 105 degrees during the entire session, and most of the dynoing was done with charge temps ~110F.
I'm not entirely unhappy with the result, but am really scratching my head as to why the car fell off so much up top. 2L w/ vtec head w/ GSR cams is too much for HY35? Seems weird.
Dyno sheet will follow, probably tomorrow / friday / saturday when I have time to get it off my digicam, upload it, etc.
At this point, I'm hesitant but am leaning towards the HY35 being better suited to LS motors...
Modified by blundar at 2:25 AM 6/1/2006
Modified by blundar at 2:39 AM 6/1/2006
Car was ******* weird on many counts.
almost certainly have some wastegate issues that got progressively worse - spool times got longer later in the session - weird. It's clearly visible in the dyno graphs. AVC-R was set to 3.0kg/cm2 and 90% duty cycle with training turned off (90% across board on solenoid duty in monitor mode) with 10psi spring in wastegate and saw a max of 22psi boost. Significant amount of boost falloff (2-4psi) at boost levels above 17psi. Go figure.
top end of the motor was decidedly lacking... Spent 5hrs on the car - more timing, less timing, leaner, richer... Didn't really go anywhere. Weird.
Car made 423whp / 350ft-lbs with a severely slipping clutch on 22psi - 93 octane pump gas
Car made 350whp / 300 ft-lbs on 16psi - 93 octane pump gas
Car made 330whp / 272 ft-lbs on 13psi - 93 octane pump gas
Car made 280whp / 223 ft-lbs on 8psi
Car made 181whp / ?? ft-lsb on 0 psi
Car tuned on a Dyno Dynamics Loading dyno. These are not dynojet figures. Do not compare them to dynojet figures if you are a numbers *****. Wastegate popped open with shop air, AFR and Timing tuned pretty extensively at 0psi. Timing / minor AFR adjustments at higher boost levels. FV+Gear Crome tools were damn ******* close once dialed in properly and boost comp applied / dialed in - so very few AFR adjustments were really needed. Shape of torque curve essentially unchanged from 0psi to 15psi (where clutch DEFINATELY started slipping) which is kinda odd... Normally see top end pick up considerably with boost.
92F degree ambient / 52% humidity. Standard SAE correction used (1.037 I believe???) Charge temps did not drop below 105 degrees during the entire session, and most of the dynoing was done with charge temps ~110F.
I'm not entirely unhappy with the result, but am really scratching my head as to why the car fell off so much up top. 2L w/ vtec head w/ GSR cams is too much for HY35? Seems weird.
Dyno sheet will follow, probably tomorrow / friday / saturday when I have time to get it off my digicam, upload it, etc.
At this point, I'm hesitant but am leaning towards the HY35 being better suited to LS motors...
Modified by blundar at 2:25 AM 6/1/2006
Modified by blundar at 2:39 AM 6/1/2006
You wrote that the torque curve seems virtually unchanged from 0-22 psi, that's also weird, and what I find even more weird is that the torque falls off so much at the upper rpm when the motor is at 0 psi..is that to be expected though, with the open wastegate and turbo still choking the motor enough to cause that? I mean, a turbo system with the wastegate totally open isn't equivalent flow wise to a n/a header, but still, I wouldn't expect the curves to be that similar..wtf? Weird.
Another thing, another post says the motor has a S2 IM, you wrote a stock b16, which on is it? I'm not a fan of the b16IM at all, I think it would definitely restrict an ls vtec, especially a 2L one. I'll be trying out an 81.5mm gsr with the same turbo and a bbk IM, which is the same as the victor x basically, and I hope to hell it doesn't drop off like that at the top, or I'll have to get an hx40!
How much hp do you think the slipping clutch soaked up too?? Should I just write off this dyno test completely until that's fixed? Was the clutch slipping at the top of the powerband?
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Re: (speeddave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can do that or do what i did...get a hump coupling and really sqeeze it over the vband....the crimp the ever living crap out of it and make the vband be in the hump of the coupling...then attach such said charge piping...besdies your gonna wanna a really good coupling coming off the snail anyways so this worked very well for me... </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speeddave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i did with mine was put a sanding disc on an angle grinder and took down the v-band edge till it was just enough to act as a bead to hold the coupler/t-bolt from blowing off. its working good so far... another option would be to ground down the v-band flange and weld a small piece of 2.5" pipe w/a bead on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Both good ideas that I might end up doing if I cant get the vband to work correctly. thanks for the help
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speeddave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i did with mine was put a sanding disc on an angle grinder and took down the v-band edge till it was just enough to act as a bead to hold the coupler/t-bolt from blowing off. its working good so far... another option would be to ground down the v-band flange and weld a small piece of 2.5" pipe w/a bead on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Both good ideas that I might end up doing if I cant get the vband to work correctly. thanks for the help
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From: bumfuck egypt, SD, US
we should have (and watch it drive the holset prices up) a holset how-to thread. I mean one with all the info, like what to use to connect the downpipe, what kind of oil lines/fittings, etc etc. I have a holset and I still don't even know that ****, and I have no idea where to even try to buy any of it.. I also read on here about people saying you could swap out the hy35 turbine housing with a bigger one?? I have never heard anything about that before.
Another thing, that thread would be the place to post holset dyno tests. This thread right here is 48 pages long and there are hardly any posted..and the one I was last looking at left me with way more questions than answers... (come on blundar, I need to know this ****!)
Another thing, that thread would be the place to post holset dyno tests. This thread right here is 48 pages long and there are hardly any posted..and the one I was last looking at left me with way more questions than answers... (come on blundar, I need to know this ****!)
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Bronx, NY
Subscribing.
Read nearly every page.
H1C is in the mail. Waiting arrival.
1.6 non Vtec 76mm D Series.
Everything in this thread tells me it wont spool until too late.
Twin scroll, going to block off one hole and hope for the best.
300 whp is the goal.
Tuner Toy rods and Vitaras.
Read nearly every page.
H1C is in the mail. Waiting arrival.
1.6 non Vtec 76mm D Series.
Everything in this thread tells me it wont spool until too late.
Twin scroll, going to block off one hole and hope for the best.
300 whp is the goal.
Tuner Toy rods and Vitaras.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: mississippi, us
Re: (boosted-EG6)
get your assy # and call a cummins dealer, heck tell me your assy # and ill give you the wheel #, then you can call any cummins dealer near you and they can order it for you. if you tell me where you live, i can prolly tell you who your local dealer is.
i think the wheel # is a 3599594
and for an hx40 its 3599593
an hx35w reman turbo assy is a 3802697rx, at least on a 6bt engine in a skidder or loader it is. same thing on my boys ls in my sig.
i think the wheel # is a 3599594
and for an hx40 its 3599593
an hx35w reman turbo assy is a 3802697rx, at least on a 6bt engine in a skidder or loader it is. same thing on my boys ls in my sig.
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,933
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From: northern, ma, US
Re: (rorik)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we should have (and watch it drive the holset prices up) a holset how-to thread. I mean one with all the info, like what to use to connect the downpipe, what kind of oil lines/fittings, etc etc. I have a holset and I still don't even know that ****, and I have no idea where to even try to buy any of it.. I also read on here about people saying you could swap out the hy35 turbine housing with a bigger one?? I have never heard anything about that before.
Another thing, that thread would be the place to post holset dyno tests. This thread right here is 48 pages long and there are hardly any posted..and the one I was last looking at left me with way more questions than answers... (come on blundar, I need to know this ****!)</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe if i get bored one day ill take the time and dig all the pertinent info out...as of now...hell if you cant read 48+ pages to figure out if this is the snail you want...then go spend $1000+ and a turbo someone said would be awesome....
the problems w/ making a list of everything is that each model changes...even in the same hx35 category....there is so many wheel revisions etc....
dyno sheets heh...very few are posted well...mostly because of the same aspects of this turbo...i orginally posted a ton of info spuring interest in this snail...mostly steming from jdavis and a few other HT members...but basically a holset isnt a cheap turbo...but a cheaper option buyin a used one because of there supply....yea there popularity is slowly driving up prices...but hey still at $300 used...that ***** on any t3/t4 price anywhere...and $70 to rebuild it...i mean i really cant complain one bit...
hopefully ill get my whip up and running...still waitin on some rod ends and stuff to finish up the traction bars...but aside from that im just to lazy to go out and re-wire up the ecu...dam i hate wiring
Another thing, that thread would be the place to post holset dyno tests. This thread right here is 48 pages long and there are hardly any posted..and the one I was last looking at left me with way more questions than answers... (come on blundar, I need to know this ****!)</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe if i get bored one day ill take the time and dig all the pertinent info out...as of now...hell if you cant read 48+ pages to figure out if this is the snail you want...then go spend $1000+ and a turbo someone said would be awesome....
the problems w/ making a list of everything is that each model changes...even in the same hx35 category....there is so many wheel revisions etc....
dyno sheets heh...very few are posted well...mostly because of the same aspects of this turbo...i orginally posted a ton of info spuring interest in this snail...mostly steming from jdavis and a few other HT members...but basically a holset isnt a cheap turbo...but a cheaper option buyin a used one because of there supply....yea there popularity is slowly driving up prices...but hey still at $300 used...that ***** on any t3/t4 price anywhere...and $70 to rebuild it...i mean i really cant complain one bit...
hopefully ill get my whip up and running...still waitin on some rod ends and stuff to finish up the traction bars...but aside from that im just to lazy to go out and re-wire up the ecu...dam i hate wiring
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,933
Likes: 1
From: northern, ma, US
Re: (Dr. D-Series)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. D-Series »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Subscribing.
Read nearly every page.
H1C is in the mail. Waiting arrival.
1.6 non Vtec 76mm D Series.
Everything in this thread tells me it wont spool until too late.
Twin scroll, going to block off one hole and hope for the best.
300 whp is the goal.
Tuner Toy rods and Vitaras.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice setup...but your totally misiig the split scroll idea...if you block on side its not going to spool at all....it uses a split pulse design to speed up the trubine wheel by placing the pulses at different spots on the wheel...blah that sounds so confusing....just run it like a eq. pressure turbo and get a smaller housing if it spools to late...only prob will be increased back pressure and possibily raising detonation limits....
300whp is gonna take some serious boost...
Read nearly every page.
H1C is in the mail. Waiting arrival.
1.6 non Vtec 76mm D Series.
Everything in this thread tells me it wont spool until too late.
Twin scroll, going to block off one hole and hope for the best.
300 whp is the goal.
Tuner Toy rods and Vitaras.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice setup...but your totally misiig the split scroll idea...if you block on side its not going to spool at all....it uses a split pulse design to speed up the trubine wheel by placing the pulses at different spots on the wheel...blah that sounds so confusing....just run it like a eq. pressure turbo and get a smaller housing if it spools to late...only prob will be increased back pressure and possibily raising detonation limits....
300whp is gonna take some serious boost...
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: (Hulk22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hulk22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry the wheel on the cold side and the housing will not fit or bolt to the hot side</TD></TR></TABLE>
its called a cnc machine. welcome to the world of modern technology
its called a cnc machine. welcome to the world of modern technology
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 920
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From: bumfuck egypt, SD, US
Re: (drumking15)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maybe if i get bored one day ill take the time and dig all the pertinent info out...as of now...hell if you cant read 48+ pages to figure out if this is the snail you want...then go spend $1000+ and a turbo someone said would be awesome....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
****, I'm about to do that..this thread is getting so long, I can't even remember half of what I wrote before in it..
I'm trying to remember the a/r of the bullseye housing for the hx40..I think it was .68..I know I wrote that somewhere in here..
maybe if i get bored one day ill take the time and dig all the pertinent info out...as of now...hell if you cant read 48+ pages to figure out if this is the snail you want...then go spend $1000+ and a turbo someone said would be awesome....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
****, I'm about to do that..this thread is getting so long, I can't even remember half of what I wrote before in it..
I'm trying to remember the a/r of the bullseye housing for the hx40..I think it was .68..I know I wrote that somewhere in here..
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 920
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From: bumfuck egypt, SD, US
About the idea of blocking off half of the scroll on the inlet of the hx series, won't that cut in half the area of the 'nozzle' or whatever the piece is that pushes the air against the wheel, in effect cutting the original a/r in half? Even if it is a half assed way to do it, because the turbine wheel will not have exhaust pressure around its entire circumference?
Modified by rorik at 4:38 AM 6/27/2006
Modified by rorik at 4:38 AM 6/27/2006