i paid $200,its weird there's shaft play of any kind housing looks ok though.

 

You can clearly see erosion on the leading edges of the compressor wheel...
This means he either ran a shitty pre-turbo methanol system or more likely ran it without a filter.

It's very easy for a foreign object to get sucked up by the compressor wheel and damage a shaft. You need to pull the compressor cover and see exactly where it's rubbing.

 

here's another video with the compressors off, this is my 1st time taking apart a turbo so be patient with me, thanks..

 

just though i give you guys an update, took the turbo apart and found a broken O ring, took the O ring out and put it back together to see if it spins freely and it sure does, here's a pic below of the broken O ring..

 

That's not an o ring. That's the turbine oil seal. Turbo won't work without it.

So now you have to order a rebuild and send the turbo out for assembly and balancing. It's something you can't do on your own.

 

i rebuilt my own hx35 with no issues. ive seen other cummins guy do the same.

 

that's what i though, someone told me if i dont change the compressor wheel its not necessary to balance and i also seen people rebuild these without balancing too

 

Holsets have individually balance parts, unless you replace parts with new the us parts would need to be rebalanced due to scratches.

 

I'm looking to buy a hx35 if anyone has one for sale. Also, does anyone know if a hx40 will fit with a typical ramhorn?

 

yes it will fit on a B-, D-, H-, or F- series in a 5G Civics for sure unless you are running a full radiator. No sure on info on K- or 4G or Integras (any generation)

 

what kinda of power i would see from an hx35 8 blade turbo, its going on my h22, build block, wiseco 8:1, can anyone chime in on this? my goal is around 400whp. also which 6 or 7 blade compressor i can use without any modification to the hx35 housing?

 

8-blade 400ish
7-blade 425ish
Maybe a bit higher if you use a replacement billet 7long and 7short compressor wheel.

 

So although the 7 (54x78mm) blade is smaller than the 8 (56x83mm)blade it makes more power? Am i might be revving out to 8500rpm..

 

If the wheels touched the housings then the unit is no longer balanced.

Also depending on how much material was removed the airflow characteristics of the wheel can be altered and the structural integrity could also be comprised. Resulting in not only diminished power output but the wheels could fail.

Depending on how bad the contact was material could also be removed from the compressor cover resulting in a loss of efficiency, power, and proper operation so you would have to find a replacement cover.

Did the turbine wheel touch the housings?

If it did it would be cheaper to buy a replacement CHRA and just put your housings on it.

Or you can simply upgrade the damaged parts. I can point you to rebuild kits, turbine wheels, and upgraded billet compressor wheels.

 

i ordered a rebuild kit from and getting a new wheel and getting it balanced, i just dont know which would be more convenient for me, the 7 (54x78mm) or the 8 wheel 8 (56x83mm). i dont wanna use my wheel because its cracked in several places. the guy that sold me the turbo told me it was rebuilt, but am now having doubts after taking it apart... my goal is to make 400+ on my h22 efficiently without pushing the turbo to its limits, is this obtainable?

 

are you talking to me?

any turbo can fit on any car... I'm just worried about the hx40's large compressor housing touching my ramhorn..


very low numbers youre giving him there, especially for a h22.. same time though... the guy didn't say how much boost he planned to run.. and he is low comp (8:1)

If i get a 7 blade hx35... I plan to hit 500whp on 20 psi. If a my buddies 5858 can hit 495whp on 19 psi, I should be able to do the same with a hx35... and I have itr cams over his gsr cams, and 10:5 comp vs his 9:1.

 

Looks like I'm buying a used hx35w locally for 200$.

Has anyone here converted theirs to work with an external wastegate (i researched quite a bit, got an idea, but more input is always nice)

Also, does anyone know if these hx35s come in different size turbines? I read in numerous places a 14 or 16cm turbine is like a .55 ar, but this other chart Ive seen, says 12cm is the same as a .89 ar. confused!

I plan to run this on my lsvtec. Seems like a lot more work is needed to use this instead of running a basic turbo, since I'll have to remove/weld the internal gate, buy a vband flange kit since my downpipe is 4 bolt, buy a flange for the compressor outlet, and possibly rebuild it myself... Blah.

 

http://caboturbo.nl/wp/wp-content/up...erformance.jpg

Sorry about it being in dutch, I use to have the english translated version.
Looking at the chart, 12-, 14-, 16cm2 turbine housing were available stock.

 

i have a 7 blade hx35 and i made 480 whp and around 350 ft lbs on 18 psi. thats on a stock bore lsvtec with a gsr head and gsr cams. 12cm exhaust housing

 

You can't use a larger compressor wheel without machining the backplate and compressor housing to fit the new wheel.

Lots of people have used Holsets with an external wastegate...the also make ewg turbine housings.

I'm starting to wonder if anyone even reads this thread before posting...

 

**** YES, THIS IS WHAT IVE BEEN LOOKING FOR SO LONG!!!! Do you happen to have a dyno sheet????????

 

so i ordered a hx35 rebuild kit from turbo lab last week and i asked them if i need to rebalance it after i rebuild it, and here's what they said.....

 

thank you for that info, starting to feel very confident about putting the hx35 8 blade on my h22 and making decent power under 20psi.

 

You aren't listening...

If the wheels touched the housings then THEY ARE NO LONGER BALANCED AND MUST BE REPLACED

 

i have an extra hx35 i will be selling shortly. 8 blade. more than likely will go on ebay but giving someone here a chance at it first