What companies make an adapter plate to use an hx35 with a d series manifold?

 

^I don't understand your question, because hx35's are t3, you just buy a t3 turbo manifold.


I am looking to buy a hx35 7 blade asap! message me!

 

i just got one, but its an 8 blade. and yes the hx35's have a t3 flange so as long as you have a t3 manifold and it doesnt put the turbo some place where it will hit something it will work

 

Sorry I wasn't aware they were t3. I tried Google but couldn't come up with a solid answer anywhere as to what flange they were. Thanks for the help guys.

 

conversion equation for turbine housing sizes CM to AR - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
Some info on exhaust options if you are interested

 

so i just want to give you guys an update on my H22 with HX35, here's my setup below..

Motor: H22a4 with dry sleeves, 8:1 wiseco pistons, eagle rods, stock head with springs and retainers.
Turbo: HX35 Hot/Cold housing with ebay cartridge (54x83mm) wheel
ECU: AEM EMS Ver.1

car made 300whp with a boost leak at higher rpms on 11psi. took the car home that night and sorted out the boost leak, now am currently at 14psi and the car feels like a monster compared to 11 psi. will be back at the dyno in 2 weeks to see whats its doing. my tuner tells me that if its holing 14psi i should be at 350-360whp at this point, glad i went the Holset route instead of shedding 1k on a new turbo, will keep u guys updated on this.

 

Bought a hx35 7 blade the other day.

So as far as I know, the 7 blade hx35 flows ~60lbs min. which is on par with a 5858, 60-1 etc. I should be able to hit 500whp on pump.. right?

My buddy made 490whp at 19-20 psi on pump 92 octane with a 5858***. He has the exact same setup as me, but I have itr cams, he has gsr cams, and he is 9:1, I am 10:5.

I was told I would need a larger turbo to break 500whp, but similiar flowing turbos have made 500whp. I have considered doing a hx35/40 hybrid. I have a hx40 compressor housing and wheel lined up already.

 

im pretty confident mine would do 500+ right now. if you are talking about me in your post im on e85 though not pump gas. im on 25 pounds of boost now, just havent been back on the dyno

 

Nope. I was talking about another buddy. I forgot to mention he made that power on a 5858, not a holset.

I am just trying to understand why a local tuner said I can't make 500whp with a 60lb/min turbo when my buddy hit 490whp on another turbo that flows roughly the same amount of air, with lower comp than myself, and gsr cams vs my itr's.

 

You have to remember that a compressor map will only show you flywheel horsepower.

So a 60lb/min turbo would only produce a maximum of 600 flywheel horsepower assuming 100% efficiency which is never the case, more like 70% or so for turbocharger efficiency, not factoring in engine volumetric efficiency

 

I understand this. I just don't see how I would not hit 500whp with my mods, and seeing an equal flowing turbo pretty much hit 500whp with less aggressive mods.

 

Hi guys, i want to share my experience with Holset turbochargers.
I was on the dyno yesterday to test the difference between cast and billet super HX40 compressor wheels and I was impressed - 692 whp / 570 Nm (420ft/lbs) @ 27 psi, E100 fuel.




84mm B18 Holset HX40 @ 27 psi

Actually this turbo was on my friend's Evo, with cast compressor, making 560 awhp @ 30 psi pump gas,
only changed with billet wheel.

My setup is
84.5mm Darton sleeved B18C block with ERL 5 point main girdle
CP pistons, Manley 625+ rods, ACL race, etc.
Ferrea full valvetrain, Skunk2 Tuner Stage 2 cams, ported and polished head by me
Edelbrock VictorX
Holset Hx40 14cm with divided top mount,
ID2000 injectors, single intank Walbro 450 -10AN feed, -8AN return.

 

Not all Holsets are t3 flanged.

The hx25 and hx30 are t25 flanged
Almost all hx35 are t3 flanged, some are t4
The hx40 can be either t3 or t4
The hx50 and hx52 can be t4 or t5 ( in between a t4 and t6 flange, shares a common bolt spacing on one side with the t4 flange. Can be drilled to fit a t4 manifold)
The hx55 is almost always t6 IIRC with a few being t25

Anything larger than an hx55 should be t6 flanged.

Travis it all comes down to motor efficiency and the flow limit of the turbine wheel.

Is the dyno above with the cast wheel or the billet wheel? Your post is unclear.

I'm assuming you'll be going with a KTS wheel? Any company you see selling a billet Holset wheel is simply reselling a KTS wheel. I'm not sure in Kinugawa offers a billet wheelfor Holset turbos yet .


I'm stl deciding if/what I should run my he351ve on. I want to put a billet wheel on it but can't decide on blade choice. I know I don't want an 8+8 since they don't flow as well as the lower blade count wheelsat higher pressure levels. It's between a 6+6 or 7+7, with the 6+6 flowing the best at high pressure levels but the7+7 will flow more in that transitional low to medium boost area.

I'm going to turbo my SVT focus sometime this year and with a 10.2:1 compression ratio, insanebug valve cylinderhead, aggressive cams, variable intake cam, variable length intake manifold,and close ratio Getrag 6spd trans the he351ve would be perfect for low end torque and response while still being able to make high end power. It would all come down to vgt control. However given the size of the he351ve andhow cramped the engine bay is I doubt I could get the thing to fit anyways unless I get super creative with manifold design and do a sidewinder that would allow me to place the turbo over the transmission.

Such a dilemma lol

Only downside is in stock form the motor only turns to 7000 despite having an 84.8mm bore and an 88mm stroke with oem forged steel rods with a length of 139.2mm and a rod stroke ratio of 1.58 (same as a gsr motor)high pressure cast pistons that are hardcoat anodized and have low friction skirt coatings.

It's basically a factory race motor that is hand assembled, balanced, and blueprinted by the SVT engineers. People have used stock internals safely to 400whp. So it has to be something with the head. It's a total redesign fromthe standardhead. Bigger valves, stiffer springs, lightweight retainers, revised port sizes (bigger, much bigger) andport angle, factory port job (think type r) and super aggressive cams (again think n.a. b series "stage 3 cams)

So I'm not sure why the rev limit is so low, maybe for emissions and to keep power to a certain limit and for reliability. I need to find out what others are turning as far a rpm onthe stock valvetrain because that low of an rpm limit severely limits turbo size, if I could even get 7500-8000 out of it that would make a huge difference.

 

Billet wheel would be a good idea on that He351ve, I had issues with my cast wheel once I turn the s/c on and surge past 35psi. on my d16.

Let go of the accelerator and I get a barking sound form the HE351ve, probably should run with bov/recirculate valve btw turbo s/c.

 

Yea I plan in it. Only thing is that my he351ve isliterally brand new, 0 miles, not sure if I feel like taking it apart just yet. Might end up doing a comparison of cast vs billet on the vgt turbine side. See the differencesit makes in key areas of vgt operation

 

Dyno sheet is with the billet wheel, purchased from some diesel parts seller in ebay.
Wheel is basically chinese copy of the original billet HE351.

 

Some hx52's have a weird trapezoidal flange as well. Iirc they were 11cm exhaust housings. I had one on my cummins for a while. I cut off the flange and welded a t3 flange to it. I'll see if I can find a pic of the flange

 

Then you didn't get the good billet wheel. The ones that are direct copies offer no benefits

You could have a billet wheel that's extended tip with thinner blades and a thinner hub along with a 5mm taller secondary inducer blade height.

Those wheels can see a 15%-25% improvement in power and response depending on setup, pressurelevels, and tuning .

 

hmm. no im considering a billet wheel for my hx35. i should be around 500 whp with my oem hx35

 

wantboost I thought that this wheel was direct copy, but it have extended tip and thinner inner section and larger secondary blades.

 

Hard to tell from a photo. You'd have to measure your actual wheel to know for sure.

And yea I can't even fit the he351ve compressor cover in the SVT engine bay. Unless I do some radiator trickery or run a retarded manifold design the largest cover I can fit is a T04B. I could probably move the dual fans into a pusher arrangement and fit a T04E but I'm afraid the reduction in fan efficacy wouldlead to cooling problems. Luckily a T04B cover should handle all the power I'd ever want to make with this platform.

I could potentially fit a standard hx35 but without at least an empty CHRA, a compressor housing, and a turbine housing (likely a 9cm due to engine rpm limit and VE . No larger than 12cm) I couldn't begin to mock anything up. And given I already have 20 turbos too many I don't need to buy another one lol. So hint hint to anyone with hx35 parts laying around or maybe someone wants to a good workingcondition hx35 or similarly sized name brand turbo for a brand new complete (from turbine outlet elbow and all vband clamps to the shaft speed sensor and vgt actuator, also include a new pneumatic vgt actuator off the larger he vgt turbo) he351ve.

If I want more I'd probably twincharge the motor with an Eaton m90 or similar blower. Thenice thing is how the engine and it's accessories are arranged I can make 500hp and still keep ac and power steering withouthaving to use sound funky manifold design. And on the intake side I could run a rootssupercharger and still be able to intercool it. This motor would make insane amounts of lowand midrange torque with a twincharged setup.

Maybe I'll look into that once I build a motor for it. Stock rods and pistons are safe to 400whp which is more than enough for the current suspension setup and the tire size I'm limited to. Can't run more than 8" wide wheel without flares, over fenders, or serious suspension tweaks namely the ,
"power blade" rear suspension links... Think a factory irs rear suspension with a 4 link style toe rod toeliminate wheel deflection . Only way to run a wider wheel is to lower the offset and push it out.

I'm looking into designing a link that has a bend in it to allow for larger wheel and tire fitment without lower offset wheels and flares.

Granted a company in the UK bought the molds for the WRC body panels so I could convert this car over to a full WRC spec exterior, wing and all, and easily run 18x9 or 18x10 wheels and run a 275 width tire.

Question is do I want to take a rare car (13,000 built total globally from 2002-2004, 1950 of which were 04s and 455 of those were 3dr sonic blue cars, of that only 100 didn't have any traction control, drive by wire, or any electronic stability bullshit ) with low miles (11 years, 3 owners 79k miles) and semi hack it up.

Everything but the rear fenders are replacement panels, except the wing which is fastened to the rear hatch so I'd get a carbon fiber one to avoid damaging the oem, so no issue there but the rear quarters are over fenders (think 240sx widebody) and would need to be riveted on and the rear wheel wells would need to be cut just like a 240.

I've debated keeping this one stock as far as the bodyatnd just put a super functional suspension and braking system on it and keeping the power around 350 on the stock motor and just having it as a nice street car/mountain car and then buying a base zx3, swapping whatever SVT parts that I don't use, getting the WRC kit and turning it into a mountain/track killer. I won't feel nearly as guilty hacking up a mass producedversion of the focus, granted with every aspect of the SVT being hand built and having key areas of the chassis and suspension reinforced over the base car it does make a difference in chassis performance and rigidity.

I seriously suck at decisions like this lol

 

Would you happen to have a link to a billet wheel for an hx35? Just tryin to do a little research and see if the gains would justify the money spent

 

Yea I'll dig a few up.

I also went out and took pictures of various compressor covers, including the he351ve, so we both could get an idea of what will and won't fit. Just like I suspected anything larger than a T04B won't fit that well. It looks like the T04S cover would fit with some fan trimming but it would be tight, in assuming the same holds true for a 4" inlet ported shroud T04E housing. I'm also assuming this means an hx35 cover wouldn't fit since it's basically the same physical size as a T04S if not slightly larger. Also there's a radiator hose and two coolant lines that would need to be relocated/diverted regardless.

Why does the engine bay of a car designed for a 4cyl motor have to be so cramped... It's like vr6 in a gti cramped, or Honda fit/crz cramped. Relocating the battery to the trunk will help clear up some room but won't help with turbo fitment unless I build a sidewinder manifold. Since the front bumper hasa small opening (that I won't cut up) and its limited on source behind the bumper, along with requiring funny intercooler piping routing, and high heat under the hood, I'll be using an air to water intercooler so a sidewinder would only make the piping shorter. Routing the downpipe would be a bitch though .

I'll post pics after dinner.

 

Where is the picts?

 

I'm about to start uploading them. I have a ton I need to do to post in various places here