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Because of the booster delete? I want a staging setup but I need to incorporate all 4 simply for limited street use. Are you still running a prop valve or a bias controller now?
Because of the booster delete? I want a staging setup but I need to incorporate all 4 simply for limited street use. Are you still running a prop valve or a bias controller now?
Essentially a bias controller, I learned my lesson from having all 4 hooked up to the brake pedal and using a booster, especially in a drag car.
If you are just referring to what coilover setup I am using it would be Strange Engineering with 750lb Hyperco Coils in the front and 300lb rears.
The full shebang; control arms, camber kits, etc. If it has to do with suspension, fill me in! Also, your coilovers.. They adjustable dampening? 24 way, 32 way, etc?
Your car is more suited to track so I'm trying to get an idea of the suspension and maybe meet somewhere in the middle for track/street.
The full shebang; control arms, camber kits, etc. If it has to do with suspension, fill me in! Also, your coilovers.. They adjustable dampening? 24 way, 32 way, etc?
Your car is more suited to track so I'm trying to get an idea of the suspension and maybe meet somewhere in the middle for track/street.
Okay yeah: I think all the below basically fall into the suspension portion.
Strange Engineering Double Adjustable shocks with 10 extension and compression settings.
Kaizenspeed Rear Trailing Arm kit
Front Skunk2 Pro Series Camber Kit
Kingpin Spherical Front LCA's, Kingpin Spherical Compliance Bushings
MAKK transmission brace
NRG Tubular K Member
Hasport solid motor mounts
So I sold my flatbed trailer and went and took a look at this trailer. I've been wanting a enclosed for some time now and have really thought hard about a size. This is a 24 foot and I think it will give me the room I need, I think this will have to come home real soon.
24 works out really nice. we have one for a dirt track car's there a bit longer then are Honda's. there a lot cheaper back east. my family owns a transport company and a lot of people pay us to bring trailer to the west coast from back east. some company's even deliver.
I think a 24 foot would be just fine, I’m squeaking by with a 16 foot but I’m a HB and don’t travel with much extra stuff . 24 foot should allow for plent of tools and spare replacement parts
24 works out really nice. we have one for a dirt track car's there a bit longer then are Honda's. there a lot cheaper back east. my family owns a transport company and a lot of people pay us to bring trailer to the west coast from back east. some company's even deliver.
Yeah I've been looking online for trailers and Georgia seems to be pretty damn cheap but the delivery charges they want $2500 which makes buying one here the same price. LOOK has a manufacturing plant about 10 miles from me, however they don't sell to the public and the cheapest dealer to me is literally 5 miles from my house. This trailer out the door brand new was $7,600. I've seen good deals on Offer Up but I want something brand new.
I really haven't done much to it, made the new overflow tank and bought a couple small parts and that's about it right now. I was looking into a fire suppression setup for my car since my buddy has one for sale.
As for the engine my buddy has been looking into the headgasket issue, seems that the JE Pro Seal gaskets are just machined like ****. For example I have a Darton Sleeved 84mm block yet an 84mm JE Pro Seal hangs over the piston walls which is no good. Second issue is the machining of the dowel locations on the headgasket. When you try to place the headgasket over the dowel pins it is a very tight fit to the point that it almost bacons the headgasket. So we tried a Cometic head gasket and didn't like it so what we are doing is using the JE 85mm headgasket and notching the dowel pins to relieve the pressure.
We also have to notch the turbo manifold to clearance it, in some cases and it doesn't happen often with some blocks the head actually ever so slightly recesses on the block meaning the block stick out a little further then the head. So when I go to tighten the manifold it actually was putting pressure on the block and head basically trying to squeeze itself over the block causing stress that could also lift up on the head.
So we will see what happens once everything is back together and ready for the dyno.
Given you'll have p2w clearance machined in, shouldn't you order at least .5mm larger HG size anyway? I didn't have an issue there with my JE at 76mm, but the dowel pins.. Yup.. It didn't fit tight enough to distort, but I DID have to provide some encouragement with a 12mm deep socket over the pins to seat the gasket. **In Happy Gilmore voice** Just taaaap it in... Jussst taaaaap it in!! (Knock on wood) No issues so far after 1076 miles post startup and some RIGOROUS driving after 500 mile clutch break in.
Given you'll have p2w clearance machined in, shouldn't you order at least .5mm larger HG size anyway? I didn't have an issue there with my JE at 76mm, but the dowel pins.. Yup.. It didn't fit tight enough to distort, but I DID have to provide some encouragement with a 12mm deep socket over the pins to seat the gasket. **In Happy Gilmore voice** Just taaaap it in... Jussst taaaaap it in!! (Knock on wood) No issues so far after 1076 miles post startup and some RIGOROUS driving after 500 mile clutch break in.
So when I had a GE Sleeved 84mm block they recommended an 84mm gasket and it worked great. With Darton Sleeves they recommend JE but JE 84mm is too small so JE recommends using an 85mm gasket on an 84mm bore. In my mind that seems a bit weird but that is what they recommend and yes there gasket is machined like crap and doesn't fit the dowel pins that well. So with modified dowels I am hoping to not have any issues and from my understanding this is common practice on domestic stuff from my understanding.