Got your PM. Thanks for the info.

I figure I should also replace bushings as needed or just do a master kit? Moog will take care of the upper arms and ball joint; rear LCA, upper camber and rta will take care of the rear with the exception of the toe link.

Up front, that just leaves the f lca, right? Or should I do all up front too?

Should I hold off on radiator until needed? mine is fine so far.

 

Go ahead, FYI there is a Sedan thread, may get more input there.

RSzero1- Front LCA can go several ways, buy cheap replacement MOOG arms, hardrace arms or like I did and only replace the subframe bushing with spherical from PCI. Other wise, kingpin is an option but super expensive, craftsmanship looks solid though.

Wouldn't worry about radiator unless needed.

My car is getting more refresh since I bought it as a shell.

What do you guy's think about checker'd sports? Thinking about there horn delete and pc680 battery box for something different. Wish there hub was still available.

Checkerdsports

 

What do i need to bared my 89 civic hatch i have a obd 1 b18b1 it use to be dual point. D15b2?

 

I like the checkered sports stuff! Looks good, partial to the oil cap, simple. The horn block off is simple but effective. Battery box is cool, I believe the gauge metal they use isn't flimsy either

 

I have the standard battery box on one car, but i figure that one is just dimpled like they do with the rest of there stuff. Oil cap is a no go as I need clearance wherever i can get it. And the horn since the red momo looks tacky in the monte carlo red stitch. Plus they never work anyways. At least in my experience.

 

I like both, I like it more that you don't see them everywhere either, lol. I think I have my shopping list. I'm going to check over the susp again this weekend though to make sure I'm not trying to replace anything that doesn't need to be replaced.

For example buying the whiteline shifter bushings before checking and seeing I already had ES bushings in there from the previous owner, lol

 

Fuel line and filter installed. Vise with a rag and box wrench is so much better than adjustable wrenches.

 

Coop, did you use some vendor's kit for the fuel filter or piece it together yourself.

For those of you that want to run the Fastline Shifter, I had to partially drop the shift linkage to get the center console in. I see no way of running a stock shift boot with this tall thing.

 

Went to Speedfactory here in Washington state and told Kevin what I was doing, two fittings, a foot of line and the filter. I posted a lot picture a couple pages back. You will need a crush washer for the filtrr to rail. Significantly less than a pieced together kit too. Assembled the hose myself. All vibrant stuff. See link below for image of parts.

https://honda-tech.com/group-threads.../#post50172514

 

Well, no TSX, but it's still a 6spd


I still have my 4dr, but taking my wife's suggestion. My friend has had a bad run with 4th Gens since I've known him lol, so I'm giving him my car.

 

Damn Adrian you have some positive Karma coming your way.

Nice car.

 

Thanks

Dropped it off to him last night with a whole bunch of parts, receipts, etc. He and his girls were all teary eyed lol. Felt good to do something like that for someone else

 

good stuff mang.

 

DUDE! Nice pick up, esp in stick and you have a kid sized back seat, lol!

Definitely good karma on helping out a friend, I've always believed in putting out positive, it does come back to you.

Any plans to, uh, hmm, keep it stock? WOW I had a hard time typing that, lol.

 

Nope, no plans to modify. This car is going to the dealer to get all it's service done. In time, I'll get something else to play with.

 

That sounds exactly quoted from what the wife might tell you.

I know mine said that when I bought the ep3.

 

Nice car blue!

The crx fired up for the first time since 2012 this weekend... soon...

 

Nice, just topped off fluids, etc? Plans to hit the tracks again or just for fun?

I've been checking out Revlimiter.net - its pretty much all miata stuff, but the guy has some cool ideas and great execution, i suggest checking it out.

Trying to finalize my purch list for some EF goodies.

 

^ what you getting?

 

That's what I'm not sure about. I have a list of stuff I want to get, and stuff I should get, and I now found I need to replace my cat.

Swap tires - $200 (couple sets)
Helmet - $299.95 Simpson Voyager – Winding Road Racing
Catalytic converter $184.75 PART# 332305
Deep steering wheel - $295 - sparcousa.com
Pedals - $154 – srpracing.com
Shifter - $169.19 – Ktuned
Slotted discs - $288 - Stoptech/Powerslot (4)
CF wing - $345.60 – Special-Carbonfiber.com

Plus my rear brake swap with new rta's, rear bearings and prop valve.

I'm going to hold off on the lca's & front uca for now since mine are actually fine. Btw rock auto has the Moog adjustable rear upper arm for $61 which is the SPC unit.

Also decided to sell my fins and pick up the 15x8 Rpf's. Want to limit myself to $1000 for now until I sell the fins.

Any recs or ideas or better pricing?

 

You have catalytic converter listed twice.

I would start with the needs before wants. Tires and brakes first and suspension first. Steering wheel is nice to have but not absolutely necessary.

 

Lol, thanks for catching that, ninja edit, what duplication, lol.

Nah you're right, rear brake swap, with the needed items are covered, not to be included in the $1,000, as I already had that lined up.

Debating the slotted rotors, but I need to replace the rear rotors on the swap anyway. Agreed tires for sure. Realistically, this what I'll end up with

Swap tires - $200
Catalytic converter $184.75 PART# 332305
Front Lower Ball joints
Front UCA - $87.11 Moog RK9814/RK9813 – RockAuto
Slotted discs - $288 - Stoptech/Powerslot (4)
Misc bushing replaced as needed

If I don't do the slots, then I'll get my helmet this round. Otherwise it can wait until the next go.

It's funny, usually I'm just buying a single part at a time, but this the first in a long time, I get to spend some extra cash on just my stuff, so I think I just went "WHAT CAN I BUY,?!?!" Lol, so I'm sure some stuff I added to the list that if I think about more, will come off the list. Usually the extra goes to family stuff, but I've been kicking *** at work, and my wife insisted I enjoy.

She's awesome, lol

 

Slotted rotors for the front sure, higher rated blanks for the rears. I went with the centric high carbon's on mine and hawk HPS pads in front, with some raybestos in rear. Do you have stainless lines? Bigger master cylinder? The 88-91 civic sedan 15/16's fits perfect.

Raybestos I had for years and never used them. Lol

 

Kool, I'm going to use the recs on the discs and pads. I wasn't sure about the stainless lines - I have brand new oems I picked up, heard some people preferred fresh OE lines, but for my planned use, I think I will. Any recs on brand?

Didn't have the MC, just the prop valve.

What's your opinion on this wildwood kit from fastbrakes? I was considering it, drops 20 lbs up front as well and covers calipers, larger discs (I'd ask about just slotted, not drilled), and braided lines up front - http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/...rack-10-4a.htm

 

Nope.

only 91 civic sedan ex.

They all fit but if you want the bigger master cylinder you need that year and model.

15/16