Be careful with these.. if you are running a wide rotor and are fairly low, suspension travel can cause the extended ball joints to contact the rotor...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/lower-ball-joint-hitting-rotor-2836651/

 

yea I used a press when I did mine, but the awkward shape of the knuckle makes it very difficult to press out. I used a BIG socket and a hammer to tap the new one in slowly. Also, when I do ball joints, I just hammer them out while the new one is in the freezer, then tap the new one in place. Works great. And since they are designed without that damn Circlip now, it's a million X easier.

Nick, once the shop figures out the position of the knuckle on their press, please take a pic, as I don't remember how my friend got it to work before. LOL

 

a tip my dad gave me was to loosen the nut but keep it on the end of the ball joint threads. this way if you miss but hit the end of the ball joint, you don't damage the threads.

 

I guess I should never watch a youtube "how to" video again.
Some on there (can't remember his username) that always posted repair video made removing the MC seem like seem like cake. Didn't even bother showing clips of him going under the dash for anything. Eric the repair guy or something like that.

the vega box has seen far better days. The alternators has been sitting on the subframe in the engine bay for the past 6 months. Car itself has been sitting unmoved for the past year.

Going to get rid of it though and either get a 4 door or a wagon. I need a new daily.

 

Hey Nick, car looks amazing. Big props to you in the FF Battle. btw how much camber do you run front and rear?

 

Alright here are some proper pics. Pretty much shows what mods i did over the winter. Still havent fixed that windshield tho lolSorry for the whoring but i barely post pics anywhere except in this thread.

 

good read, thanks! With the type r calipers too Im glad now that I went with all new OEM BJ's. Much appreciated!


Mine were fresh from powder and I just made sure to set them up properly and didnt even scratch a bit! Guess it just comes down to finding the right blocks to prop it on. If I remember correctly I used quite a few. I find the Ball joint is easier to do once the hub retaining clip is out of the way too.

And YES! Always leave the nuts on ball joints when whackin' em with a hammer! Not just to avoid mushing threads.. you dont want things to just start falling out and what not.




Hatch looks good AE86.. got some events planned for her?

 

Thanks. Itll be hitting up local time attacks

 

Car looks so simple and purpose built. I love it...except for the mud flaps...real race cars don't have mud flaps

 

Haha thanks. **** that i love the flaps, even the power windows are staying in. I like to keep some oem goodness.

 

Seriously though...they're like mini air brakes. If you're time attackin' you might think about removing them.

My splitter is a TOTAL air brake. I lost 5-7mph on the straight of my home track, but it makes itself worth it everywhere else.

What kind of rear sway are you running?

 

Wow. good point there Nick. Never thought of mud flaps like that but your 100% right!
I was going to suggest loosing the OEM seat belt on the drivers side too, couple useless pounds now that you have a harness. I dont like to nit pick though.. Its your ride! I like it either way!


Some random questions to get this page moving a little.. miss that camaraderie!

Now that K-tuned has a D/B series shifter and it is adjustable to get that perfect height what is everyones opinion on it... say compared to the fastline which receives good reviews as well. I plan on using what I have already just trying to see others opinions.

 

Wow. good point there Nick. Never thought of mud flaps like that but your 100% right!
I was going to suggest loosing the OEM seat belt on the drivers side too, couple useless pounds now that you have a harness. I dont like to nit pick though.. Its your ride! I like it either way!


Some random questions to get this page moving a little.. miss that camaraderie!

Now that K-tuned has a D/B series shifter and it is adjustable to get that perfect height what is everyones opinion on it... say compared to the fastline which receives good reviews as well. I plan on using what I have already just trying to see others opinions.

 

I actually still have my OEM belt and use that on the street. It's actually more dangerous to use it since it doesn't go through the holes of my seat and therefore wouldn't work properly, but I can get a ticket for wearing my harness here in CA. Booo.

As for the new K-tuned shifter, I have both. The fastline in my CRX is AWESOME and I haven't gotten around to installing the k-tuned piece in my coupe, but I'll let you know what I think. It still won't get as tall as my fastline and it has a lot of parts so hopefully it feels good.

 

So thats means that itll help my braking :p

Im running asr 22/23? Forgot what size it is.

Yah i kept my stock belt in just to please the cops, but i use the harness on the street anyway. If a cop says anything he can suck my dick, ill take the ticket

 

Hhahaa.. will help braking because not going as fast as possible! Just crackin man.. Im sure you could always pull all the extra stuff off for events.
Im not even sure on my local laws towards harness's. I will have stock belts still bc 91 doors Unless I fab some filler pieces.
I try to treat cops with respect and understand they are doing their job, seems to work out better for me being a nice guy, some cops just cant help but be a dick though!

Take some shots under the car of that ASR.. I would love to get the giant 32 on somehow.. not sure how much more it will benefit though. Currently with the lime green ST one. No front sway.

Good stuff Nick, look forward to your feedback! Do you ever plan to track the coupe? whats the next event for the crx... sure she needs a rest after FF and the issues that you had. Throw the Js stuff back on and go stunt at Showoff! ha!

 

Hi guys, Im thinking of buying all the rubber bushings to replace on my '90 CRX suspension.
They have never been replaced and are almost 23 years old !!

I already have the Polyurethane sway bar bushings and links. So those will stay.
I'll also be replacing the front upper control arms, instead of just the bushings.
Of course, I'll be getting the Honda OEM rubber bushings.

Here's my list:
Let me know if there anything missing:


- Engine Mounts (4)
- Front Upper Control arms (2)
- Front Lower Control Arm bushings (2)
- Front Shock Absorber bushings (2)
- Rear Trailing arm bushings (2)
- Rear Lower control arm bushings (4)
- Rear Shock Absorber bushings (2)
- Rear Compensator arm (2)
- Outer tie rod ends (2)
- Inner tie rods (2)
- Tie rod dust seal boots (2)
- Front Radius rod bushings (energy Polyurethane - prevents wheel hop)

 

I think u got everything rob.

Hey nick your running innovative mounts right? What type of urathane are you using? There is a set if 75a's for sale but im wondering if itll be stiff enough. I have a problem with my intake mani hitting the firewall so I need stiff mounts

 

well decided to give in...couldn't pass up a good deal. i've had to put off tracking my car due to my inability to stop b/c of severe brake fade

 

Rob. Tie rods should have new boots on them? you could also replace the rubber that holds the rack in... recommended since your doing both inner and outer rods. I know it comes in the poly ES kit.
Have you changed front lower ball joints? I know the upper arms have a new joint. and if you do decide to do the lower BJ mine as well do the hub too! just get it all brand new at once!
I think you may have left off the rear upper arm as well.

Nice BLU!

 

What brakes blu?

 

I think i posted this pic before



Finally got some action pics:





44444xxx444444 lol Next event ill have the susp nicely dialed in

 

well i think this has been long over due. How is it going every one? I am the owner of a ef si of 7 years in the making now. as soon as im past my 15 days i will post alot of pics from over the past 7 years and how the car is comming along. over winter unfortunatly it weatherd out and has severe rust on qps and rockers. not to fear in two weeks time its getting a full body job and new coat of cherry red gloss (with black accents). well wear to start. when i first bought the car it was sitting on chopped springs no exaust bad struts 13 inch steelys!!. bad clutch vacuume lines off every were missfires on 3.2. piston rings bad ect ect. Well my fun had begain 15 years old lol. the fist thing to be done was get it back to stock hight at the time. after that i moved and the car was towed to a shop 2 hours away. i did a complete body job and painted it super white. from then on it became the project that has never ended. (the car now has a zc sohc non-vtech and zc tranny) running integ axels. jdm coils front rear cambers. sensatrac struts. magna exaust. buddyclub kit. konig 6 spoke rims. and the list goes on and on and on.

 

came off a DA...i'm probably going to go with Cobalt XR3 pads in the front and Hawk HPS in the rear