Or I can just push the car off a cliff.

Letting the car set for so for so long has just cause a headache of issues.

I'll give that a try this weekend. I don't have much moving room in my garage.
So break axle nut, drop bottom spindle nut, pull axle and drop altenator

 

You have to pull the intermediate shaft also three.

 

ordered ebay exhaust. figured it's cheaper to get a mandrel ebay exhaust for $100 and find a good axle back

 

You can find a decent full axle backs off eBay for around $150-$200

As long as fitment isn't total crap you should be straight. I have been thinking about doing the same myself to replace my exhaust.

does heat temp paint help prevent or slow down rusting process on say a exhaust system?

 

it can prevent, but i dunno about slowing down. but high temp paint has a tendency to flake

and just for laughs

 

It still has feelings blu....

 

Ya really it died protecting you

 

That is just sad to see blu, it made the ultimate sacrifice for you, deserves better than that.

 

Any help on this one please, it's driving me nuts, yarrrr

 

Try cleaning iacv

 

 

Years subscription to Esquire

http://www.mercurymagazines.com/pr1/...dmh=dm5.214276

 

Did you check fuel and spark and all that jazz? I had almost the same problem and it ended up being bad plugs.

 

If you were off a tooth timing wise, it wouldn't be running fine at WOT. I don't think that's your problem. Distributor King distributors are hit and miss. I've been tracking the one on my CRX for years with no issues. However, I've had two defective units on my old '98 coupe and my old '88 CRX daily. If you have another distributor, please try it.

 

yeah i had one of those distributors...made it a few months before i had to send it back for a replacement

 

Coil-on-plug. I want.

 

JHPUSA sells half the kit for $560...but that's just a big expense. i guess once you do it you're golden

edit: this is a good deal...but no support for NepTune yet
https://honda-tech.com/forums/performance-45/free-shipping-aem-cop-systems-emss-electronics-2988617/

 

I'm chasing the same problem right now thats why I'm attacking the alternator.

At first the car would start fine then hesitate under low rpms.
Then completely just fall on it's face while driving, no matter how much throttle was open

changed the distributors, because I was noticing red/brown dust in the inside which usually means the bearing is going bad started to run fine then went back to bad
changed the spark nothing
got a new battery, nothing
let it set now it won't start on it's own power. Get it jumped and starts and then start to hesitate and cuts off.

 

Check grounds before throwing money at it

 

Well I just noticed that the alternator I have is a refurb and I have a OEM laying in the garage so I'm going to give that a try first.

not to mention the lower bracket that holds it was loose.

 

what flaps are these with pwjdm skirts ???

 

you can probably just use a dremel on some spare ones and try and shape the sides to fit then skirts

 

yea ill probly do that today if i get it klean ill post pics up if i fail lol ima leave it alone haha