The Official EF Discussion Thread
Hard to find most of that stuff around me. I have 2 crx's...1 is stock and I plan to leave the brakes pretty much alone on that one. The other is a b18 swapped and I would like to do alittle brake upgrade. Just dont want to spend a bunch of cash on doing it.
apparently, you can also use DX knuckles, and get better calipers with the same rotors. as described here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/easiest-brake-upgrade-you-never-knew-about-details-inside-1171175/
i've heard some bad things about putting DA knuckles on the EF for geometry reasons. thats what i have now, but it also seems that my ride height is affected by them. ever heard of that?
i've heard some bad things about putting DA knuckles on the EF for geometry reasons. thats what i have now, but it also seems that my ride height is affected by them. ever heard of that?
i got a whole DA setup for sale
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From: OMG there are rabbits in my back yard, Long Island, NY
i have a question. i just brought a jdm ef8 Si-R cluster thats i wanna install in my sedan but my car has a speed sensor plug and tha cluster duz not. is there any way i can work around that?
but with power like 214/160, and the desire to road race, or drive the winding mountain roads, i would love to feel safer with larger then stock brakes.
why are you typing like that?
and? any brakes will smoke if you stop hard from that fast, if you would of slowly came to a stop, maybe down shifted it wouldnt be . and yes if your gonna compete, go bigger, 11.1 would be nice, or do an aftermarket setup
I plan on rocking Sir knuckles iwht 10.3 on hawk pads. I want to still be able to run my stock blades for that sleeper look
Anybody know a good place in so cal to get some nice seats for ef? I really don't want a bucket but something reclinable and works with a harness.
On the brake side I do have ef8 sir front spindles for $40 and da front knuckles for $60 picked up. This stuff just clutters my garage. BUt yeah seat info would be nice.
On the brake side I do have ef8 sir front spindles for $40 and da front knuckles for $60 picked up. This stuff just clutters my garage. BUt yeah seat info would be nice.
Anybody know a good place in so cal to get some nice seats for ef? I really don't want a bucket but something reclinable and works with a harness.
On the brake side I do have ef8 sir front spindles for $40 and da front knuckles for $60 picked up. This stuff just clutters my garage. BUt yeah seat info would be nice.
On the brake side I do have ef8 sir front spindles for $40 and da front knuckles for $60 picked up. This stuff just clutters my garage. BUt yeah seat info would be nice.
Best place is the junk yard if you don't want to spend a lot.
Sometimes you'll come across a garaged dime with mint *** interior. Thats how I cam up on my 88-89 Si seats a couple of years ago. Other then that, peoples is charging a lot for SiR interior. And the whole seat pan swapping thing is a P.I.T.A. if you don't have patients.
You can get a nice seat of Recaros for around $600-$900 depending on condition and who is selling them.
EVO 8 guys are always selling seats on craigslist for cheap because they want the leather setup
(this is hearsay dont know if its true)
DA or EX knuckles with redrilled 92-96 vtec prelude rotors with RL or TL calipers
(or the tried and true NSX or 91 acura legend GS dualpistons)
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
Okay...some people here are missing some points.
STOCK brakes with decent pads (carbotech's, Porterfield R4s, Hawk HP+/HPS) with some ATE blue fluid and you're set. Seriously. Period. You don't need anything else on a street car. For those having trouble braking, make sure you have followed the correct sequence when bleeding your brakes.
Yes, maybe upgrade those brake lines too, but I run a STOCK mc/booster in my '88 dx with the brake mods listed above with stock rear drums and the thing brakes hard with Azenis.
And that brings me to my next point. You can only stop as fast as your tires can stick. Running nice, sticky street tires will help.
That's why my track car runs 4 wheels discs, 15/16 mc, 11" up front with wilwoods and brake pads that only work when hot. I'd burn up stock brakes in a heart beat with r-compounds.
STOCK brakes with decent pads (carbotech's, Porterfield R4s, Hawk HP+/HPS) with some ATE blue fluid and you're set. Seriously. Period. You don't need anything else on a street car. For those having trouble braking, make sure you have followed the correct sequence when bleeding your brakes.
Yes, maybe upgrade those brake lines too, but I run a STOCK mc/booster in my '88 dx with the brake mods listed above with stock rear drums and the thing brakes hard with Azenis.
And that brings me to my next point. You can only stop as fast as your tires can stick. Running nice, sticky street tires will help.
That's why my track car runs 4 wheels discs, 15/16 mc, 11" up front with wilwoods and brake pads that only work when hot. I'd burn up stock brakes in a heart beat with r-compounds.
Okay...some people here are missing some points.
STOCK brakes with decent pads (carbotech's, Porterfield R4s, Hawk HP+/HPS) with some ATE blue fluid and you're set. Seriously. Period. You don't need anything else on a street car. For those having trouble braking, make sure you have followed the correct sequence when bleeding your brakes.
Yes, maybe upgrade those brake lines too, but I run a STOCK mc/booster in my '88 dx with the brake mods listed above with stock rear drums and the thing brakes hard with Azenis.
And that brings me to my next point. You can only stop as fast as your tires can stick. Running nice, sticky street tires will help.
That's why my track car runs 4 wheels discs, 15/16 mc, 11" up front with wilwoods and brake pads that only work when hot. I'd burn up stock brakes in a heart beat with r-compounds.
STOCK brakes with decent pads (carbotech's, Porterfield R4s, Hawk HP+/HPS) with some ATE blue fluid and you're set. Seriously. Period. You don't need anything else on a street car. For those having trouble braking, make sure you have followed the correct sequence when bleeding your brakes.
Yes, maybe upgrade those brake lines too, but I run a STOCK mc/booster in my '88 dx with the brake mods listed above with stock rear drums and the thing brakes hard with Azenis.
And that brings me to my next point. You can only stop as fast as your tires can stick. Running nice, sticky street tires will help.
That's why my track car runs 4 wheels discs, 15/16 mc, 11" up front with wilwoods and brake pads that only work when hot. I'd burn up stock brakes in a heart beat with r-compounds.
cuz brake fade = brake fluid boiling... so upgrade. and stock rubber lines expand, so steel braid prevents that.
well yea theres your prob....stock size brakes with good pads/fluid/lines will hold up to quite a bit of abuse(ask me how i know)
right now im going to be running hawk race pads, ss lines, ate superblue and 15/16mc on my time attack crx and im sure they will hold up perfectly fine with street(azenies) tires...when i move to r-comps a little bit down the line i will be running a willwood setup
right now im going to be running hawk race pads, ss lines, ate superblue and 15/16mc on my time attack crx and im sure they will hold up perfectly fine with street(azenies) tires...when i move to r-comps a little bit down the line i will be running a willwood setup
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
10.3 inch rear rsx rear rotors redrilled with flipped calipers. have to bleed off the car though.
(this is hearsay dont know if its true)
DA or EX knuckles with redrilled 92-96 vtec prelude rotors with RL or TL calipers
(or the tried and true NSX or 91 acura legend GS dualpistons)
(this is hearsay dont know if its true)
DA or EX knuckles with redrilled 92-96 vtec prelude rotors with RL or TL calipers
(or the tried and true NSX or 91 acura legend GS dualpistons)
Or the ep3 rear rotors which are the 4x100 starting from 02-04 I believe.



