<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;---- ITR 1-4, LS 5th, ITR LSD all in a cable YS1 casing w/ an Exedy stg 1. I bought a new oem cable waaay back when my car had a sohc and its holding up just fine (about 7 years now).

W/ your set up (if it hasnt changed) there is no need for the stg2. You can alleviate part of the problem by using the tried and true stg1. I hear its good for roughly 200whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a beautiful set-up, but you don't use an actuator. And the stg 2 is because I ran the same clutch in my B18a. Eh, if it worked well, stick with it...at least that's what this old man believes.

 

old pic:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the problem is when you T off an oil passage on the block, and then put the sensor on the T. In that case then it will break the block. Justin is clearly using a sandwich plate on his oil filter, and the sensor is on it. So he should be fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i've never had a problem doing that, but I use the tuner Toys block fitting for my setups.
http://www.tunertoys.com/Tuner...k.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the hasport hydro to cable when it first came out and havent had any problems ever.. Hopefully the twin disk works well in conjunction with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The bold letter word might have something to do with it.

 

I'm also using the hasport conversion. LOVE it. People complained of a stiff pedal, but they didn't install it correctly. There is one specific bolt that you must not over torque.

 

do you guys think this bearing is seated all the way on my quaife?

 

what does it take to run an obd2 gsr motor in a crx? Can we run that upside down dual butterfly intake manifold or do we have to use aftermarket?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91tealhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys i need some help,

i flipped the booster on my car to somewhat "hide" the booster vac line.
i am having a problem with the master cylinder put on there is a spot on the booster that the master cylinder does not cover up and leaks vacume so i cannot bleed my brakes.....

are other people using different master cylinders when they flip there boosters?
any help would be great......

please help!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

it should bolt on with no problems. are you using new gaskets or being cheap and trying to use the old ones from 1991?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HOTSAUCE01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

they make thin side moldings for crx's? anyone know where to get them?
everything else i know i can get through honda.</TD></TR></TABLE>

90-91 are the "thin" side moldings.

 

i got a new gasket. its leaking from a little slot. i will take a picture when i get home.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91tealhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a new gasket. its leaking from a little slot. i will take a picture when i get home.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your master is bad, no fluid should go into the booster ever.

 

fluid isent leaking, vacuum is. i cant get my brakes blead......

 

Can you post a pic? I'm awefuly confused as flipping the booster is typically an easy job (I have no problems with mine).

 

i will when i get home, thanks guys!!!

 

Anyone on here gone 5 lug? I am looking to take the plunge. How accurate is this writeup? It seems pretty straight forward.

http://technet.ff-squad.com/how-to/5lug.ef-da/

I already have EX knuckles, accord wagon calipers, 11.1" prelude disc and DA rear disc. So all I would need is the ITR hub, and ITR rear trailing arm, and to sell all my 4x100 junk. Also I don't see it in there, but aren't ITR hubs different spline from EF (EX/SI/DX)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone on here gone 5 lug? I am looking to take the plunge. How accurate is this writeup? It seems pretty straight forward.

http://technet.ff-squad.com/how-to/5lug.ef-da/

I already have EX knuckles, accord wagon calipers, 11.1" prelude disc and DA rear disc. So all I would need is the ITR hub, and ITR rear trailing arm, and to sell all my 4x100 junk. Also I don't see it in there, but aren't ITR hubs different spline from EF (EX/SI/DX)? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Guys have been using katman's article and advice over on hybrids for years. As for the axles...I'm pretty damn sure they're the same spline, but this is a great question.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Guys have been using katman's article and advice over on hybrids for years. As for the axles...I'm pretty damn sure they're the same spline, but this is a great question.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I thought for some reason they were like 2 more splines on the ITR stuff. He mentions in the article to think about what spline you will use, but that is it. I can't remember I didn't have a reason to go 5 lug until today.

 

I *think* some (late models?) were 36mm but my 97 spec swap had the standard size.

 

After some research it appears JDM ITR is 36mm. JDM CTR, and USDM ITR are 32mm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone on here gone 5 lug? I am looking to take the plunge. How accurate is this writeup? It seems pretty straight forward.

http://technet.ff-squad.com/how-to/5lug.ef-da/

I already have EX knuckles, accord wagon calipers, 11.1" prelude disc and DA rear disc. So all I would need is the ITR hub, and ITR rear trailing arm, and to sell all my 4x100 junk. Also I don't see it in there, but aren't ITR hubs different spline from EF (EX/SI/DX)? </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you at all worried about the 11.1" rotors slowing you down acceleration wise? Is it really needed for a car as light as yours?

im asking because i wanna do the same thing, and i have a similar setup as your car. But when i was thinking about it, i thought maybe the cons may outweigh the pros when comparing and contrasting to EX front brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After some research it appears JDM ITR is 36mm. JDM CTR, and USDM ITR are 32mm. </TD></TR></TABLE>
correct i'm running usdm itr hubs on my setup.

 

whoring out my ssr's on my car. i should run some 195 series on it. 205's are just too wide.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what does it take to run an obd2 gsr motor in a crx?</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't know about the intake manifold, but on my obd2 b16 i used a chipped p28 ecu, obd0-obd1 jumper harness, obd2 distributor and injectors...then hacked an 00 Si harness for distributor, injector, knock sensor, and some other plugs

 

u could also use an obd0 b-series alternator instead of worrying about the wiring.

 

Just voted .

Anyone know when the results are going to be out?