lol the official :boosted: ef discussion thread

 

Mine has v band for the downpipe

 

took the elbow off the turbo and ran my finger inside the elbow and in the turbo, no oil residu

Clipsed - huge turbo, how much you plan on making?

 

hotsauce, there reaally isnt anything wrong with boost, really.

sometimes you get some smoke. meh. but HOLY CRAP you can make a lot more power.


haha

 

did you get snow today? we got hammered across the border

 

yeah ****ing snow, and i drove the crx yesterday ...

 

Yeah...any N/A B-series motor will burn oil on track

 

a little wear is legit. When mine starts to go, if ever lol j/k. Im going to burn it to the ground lol b16a ftw

 

80 something and sunny these past few days...55 tomorrow though and it just go through hailing

 

sounds like you get crazier weather than i do.

Should be ordering thew rest of the spherical stuff from kiwi for the front suspension. Also about to get all my **** sandblasted/powdercoated. Hopefully i can start assembling everything soon. Then the real bank account rape happens; brakes/coilovers.

 

eat your hearts out lol, oem carcover

 

Originally the plan was to shoot for 300tq and see what hp I get at that lvl on stock internals with arps. I've now changes my plans as I plan to do a full motor build since I got a new job and more funds so the budget has fine up. I've decided to do a full build basically... gotta get some rods possibly lower compression pistons I have a block girdle from a gsr full arp studs moroso pan and pickup obd2 oil pump vtec water pump/t-belt knife edge the crank build my head.

(Head will be on budget and see what I can do) plan to do a mild diy port on it full valvetrain I have stage 2 cams for over a year that I've been itching to use also have a skunk 2 intake mani and 68mm tb. Id like to see what I can make with that. Once I see where im at I may decide since I have like 4 different heads to send it out to be cnc ported as well as the skunk 2 mani/tb sent to il4 to be extrude honed. At the end of the day id like to see around 500-600 hp. Spinning through all 5 gears haha.

 

I just saw his new stuff.. those front LCA bearings are nice, do you know how much they are selling for?
I think I paid 175$ for my Progress ones.. Someone said progress discontinued them though?

And those upper arms.. man am I kicking myself for buying the skunk2's, I have no personal review yet.. but I hear a lot of ball joint problems. Lets hope I get some good use out of em' before upgrading to kiwi's stuff.

If you dont mind me asking what other spherical stuff have you found?

 

kiwi's fron lca bearings are selling for 125. I believe progress is selling their kit now aswell, check their website under competition.

I also bought everything for the rear in spherical off kiwi (toe arms, camber arms and rta)

And for icing on the cake i got function7 rear lower control arms with sphericals. Those can be pretty pricey tho. in the 300-400$ range if i recall.

 

From what I've seen/read on the Hardrace upper control arms, they're virtually identical to the Skunk2 units. They look to use a very similar ball joints and ball joint hardware. In the end, I think it'll come down to if you want the arms to be red or blue. lol

 

Phew, I wasnt planning on swapping anything out, Kiwi and Brian from PCI make good stuff though. I would rather support the little guys so they keep making parts! I didnt realize Kiwi offered so many parts.
I went through MFactory for all my spherical's rear camber and rear toe adjusters, rear LCA. Sway bar end-links too. Spherical RTA from PCI, Progress front Lower's.. skunk2 upper arms.. all on koni/GC with top-hats. all new oem ball joints and wheel bearings. My icing is every single suspension piece (besides the brand new ones) has been powder coated. I'm sure if this is just re-iterating what some know.. I ***** pictures time to time.. Spherical's seems to be making a big hit this year.. I better get my car done!

Nihkon- I like red better anyway! thanks!

 

X2.

I still haven't installed my skunk front arms, and won't before my next event, but I will for the next go around. The best place to get my car aligned and corner weighted is 2 hours away

Either way, if I have problems with my skunk arms, you can bet they'll remedy the issue. I will be investing in those front sphericals though. Anything to ward off deflection!

Ninja Edit: I FULLY support Brian (he personally made my wing brackets), but Kiwi and his marketing guy are another story *shakes head*

 

The hardrace units use much bigger bolts to lock in the camber. Ive heard of Skunk2's slipping. I had the Hardrace pieces on my last car and never had an issue with 2 years of autocrossing/dd and one track day. The bushing journal looks cheap on the S2 units as well.

 

I don't think they make an ef kit do they?

 

They just came out with one I believe. Nevermind its Special Projects/Kiwi that came out with the EF pieces.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/finally-spherical-bearing-bushing-option-crx-front-lcas-2910319/

I dont think you will have an issue with the skunks. Im sure you, and anyone that tracks their car often inspects/notices these parts.

 

I run the skunks, what issues are people having?
I need to do my RTA bushing, i think im just not going to be baller and go oem.

 

Yeah, I'd be interested in hearing some rituals from you guys. I always do the following:

1. bleed (sometimes flush) brakes
2. Check EVERY single suspension bolt (only takes like 15 minutes)
3. Check brake caliper bolts
4. Inspect wheels for cracks
5. Check trans fluid (often overlooked and should be changed often)
6. Look for brake line leaks
7. other things I'm sure I'm missing

Nothing wrong with that. I run OEM (or you can get Mugens which are a bit stiffer, but still rubber)

 

How often should you change ss brake lines? mine are prob 7-8 years old

 

I primarily autocross, so I just check fluids and wheels for cracks. I usually swap wheels the night before, and check over the brakes and wheel bearings.

Hardrace RTA hard rubber bushings are cheap, got them for 75 shipped from Special Projects (put them on 2 cars and no complaints). If you can get oem for cheaper go for it.

 

I changed mine last September after having them for 3 years. I saw blue brake fluid in between the plastic sleeving and the braided line so I knew they were leaking. Eeek! I say inspect them and go from there. 7-8 years is pretty long though.