after a certain year, all b series water pumps are the same and have 22 teeth. Otherwise, no difference. You might be missing a dowel but they are just for ease of lining it up. You actually want the newer water pumps. At higher rpms, they still flow water instead of creating bubbles, like the older pumps.

 

You can definatly forget about running any of the driver side vents. I tried my damnest to get the fresh air vent to at least work, but no luck. I need to just remove the climate unit all together, i gues the only reason i keep it is for defrost.

And hotsauce i just mocked up that exact same thing to run my reservoir, looks good dude. And if you need a clutch line, check summit racing. I just baught 2 lines the exact length i needed and already has the ends crimped on, for like 50 bucks 2nd day aired.

 

i just tuned red civic standard "s AWD wagovan to 18 psi.


HOLY YIKES. trans didnt blow yet.

 

Videos!!

 

Thanks.. Guess ill just have to pull the covers and see.. I know that the 99si belt and pump didnt work on my b18c

 

The russell lines? did you go with the 99-00 civic line or the 96-00 civic line? not really sure what the difference is..I was going to order lines and fittings from Earls.

I still need to make fuel lines as well.

 

Nice meeting you too Louie! Someone buy his stuff all nice and minty

 

LOL, glad you made it home okay, keep me posted on the rebuild and thanks for the good word!

 

Lol. it was a long drive that was for sure. For sure I will, don't forget to update ur fs thread.

 

Bad ***. I want to go H to D in my wago, but I don't think it's possible. My A6 is being rebuilt while we speak.

As long as he doesn't dump the clutch he should be okay for a while with that boosted set-up right?

 

The pump should have been the same. The belt would not work for obvious reasons. 1.8 vs. 1.6 (deck height).

 

i used the russel lines. i just measured out the length i needed and found that they had the exact lengths i needed. im running 2 lines, one under the dash to a bulk head fitting behind the trans and the second length of line from the firewall to the slave cyl. using a 45" line(rus-656130) under the dash and 30" line(rus-656080) in the bay.

 

took the head off today...no damaged valves

 

Thats great news!

 

hell yeah it is....just a new timing belt instead of all that other bs you'd have to go through.

 

Those are some sexy fingers!

 

yeah it is

i'm going to go ahead and do the oil pump, water pump, valve seals, etc...should have done that stuff when i bought the swap, but was low on funds

if they weren't yours then i'd worry about that comment

 

thats kind of the thinking..

they are probably going to kill it this weekend (doing a bunch of filming for a video)... basically taking it to the dunes, jumping it, etc.

 

picture of my POS bracket

 

I can't believe they charge so much for a piece that has to be modified so much! If I ever do this, I'm definitely making my own.

 

I know its horse ****, its not like that mod is hard to fix the original design. I have access to a lathe so mine looks better but its still bs for 150 bucks. Wait till you guys try to plug in the brake switch plug, that is a royal pain in the ***.

 

I plan to make my own bracket down the road.. just need something for now so I can throw my dash back on, otherwise I would have returned it.
Boosted or anyone with everything all complete, Is it possible to remove the master after the dash is back on?
Whats is that best way to bleed the system?.. I remember NickRPS talking about using a drill to get he fluid going, just looking for any bleeding pointers.

 

Once the dash is on, you arent doing anything with it. I bled my with my dash out. I just pumped the **** out of it with my hands till i got some pressure then i bled it like brakes. I also used that superblue fluid. Seems to work great.

 

that seems like such a hassle

 

But it beats a hasport hydro conversion. This is hte only way to run a twin disc in my crx and not **** around. Other than using a tilton setup.