Teal, I was very disappointed.. Im not bashing there company or product, but for 160$ im not saying anything good about it. Maybe if they had some kickback or refund, but I dont approve of anyone buying it. not everyone has access to the tools needed to hack the bracket down. I posted a good amount of pictures and tried getting them to understand the problem, they just assumed something was wrong with my stuff, not theres. Oh well... live and learn, it still worked after shaving a nice chunk, I can post pics of my finished set-up if anyone would like. Hopefully someone comes out with a real kit at a fair price with accurate instillation methods.

So much for that fresh powder coat right teal?!

 

Please post pics of your final stage in your thread! After seeing all your pics, I might make my own eventually. lol

 

hah yea who needs powder coating. i was just hoping maybe you did get a bad bracket, but i guess maybe they need to do a little more R&D as they stated "their product costs so much because of the R&D that went into the bracket." Im gonna get some final installed pictures of mine as well to just put on the record that their product is a big failboat.

 

this is sex ahh man this is sex jk lol

 

that was sooo 10 pages ago

 

There R&D claim was the only reason I was buying it. Welding two pieces of steel together is not rocket science. It didnt even line up straight after grinding it down to fit.. Ill get pics up tomorrow. spending most of my time working on the cars before its freezing out. Didnt really want to post pictures b/c sonem is not paying me for my R&D as I paid them.. i advise everyone to hold off until they get the product right.

FAILBOAT

 

What would i need to do a '96 ITR 4x114 brake swap on a EF?

I tried searching and couldn't get a straight answer.

 

So today I was getting the crx ready to go to a meet, and I backed it out of my garage was letting it warm up and i gave it a rev just to here it lol it was a little past 2k then the car died.. Tried to start it back up nothing...it cranks all day but doesn't fire.. Pump is good. idk its probally just something stupid. Just kinda ranting because I was upset I couldn't drive it today. Oh yeah and another thing... My battery exploded that was pretty sweet. thank god it was a dry cell.

 

does your ECU light cycle on and off? It could be fried...

 

Has anyone ever had issues trying to set tdc on a d15b2?

I pulled the belt off my sedan to change the rear main seal, and now I can't for the life of me get it to tdc. No matter what I do it is a half a tooth off. Doesn't make any sense to me how it can be half a tooth off but it is.

Anyone have any special insight? I have already read over the honda service manual.

I can get the marks to line up but once the tension is set on the belt it goes off again. I'm pretty annoyed lol

 

I've never had that problem. I know you have to set the cam before the crank. As long as you line up the cam with the horizontal surface of the head and the crank pulley mark with the sight on the timing cover, you should be good. There is no reason for it to come out of time at this point. And honestly, I doubt half a tooth is going to matter. How can you tell it's half a tooth off anyways?

 

There is also a mark on the cam gear that lines up with the plastic piece under the gear. And its off half a tooth when the crank pointer is lined up. I said "screw it, it shouldn't matter being off half a tooth" but it runs like crap. Bogging and back firing like crazy. It isn't driveable.

 

Ecu is good, I put it in my da with a b16a swap and it ran fine.

 

Holy throw back pic!!! This is the summer after I got it!! I was 16 years old. haha

 

The rear will bolt right on.

For the front, buy DA or EX knuckles, new DA or EX bearings, and have the bearings machined to fit the 4x114.3 hubs. After that press it all together.

The 4lug R calipers are the same as the 90-01 integra, and ex. Down to the part number.


Also, I fixed my sedan. The timing is still haf a tooth off, bnut running fine. The problem was very low coolant. I knew it was low, but the coolant was in the wifes car and I had to wait for her to come home.

 

Spark? Main relay working?

 

I don't remember seeing those cam marks on my dad's d15b2 when I set his timing the other week. I just made sure they cam pointed up and the lines on the sides were parallel with the top of the head. stating the obvious here, but you did set cylinder 1 to tdc, right? You are saying the timing belt itself, is pulling it 1/2 tooth off when you tension it? That's really wierd man. You sure there isn't just a bunch of oil or something in the combustion chaber? Try starting it but keep it running for a minute to see if it smooths up. If there is oil in there it hsould burn it all out. It happened to my dad's car once. He thought the timing belt slipped cuz it wouldn't start, but it was perfectly in time. It would just crank and crank. So once I saw the timing was good, I just floored it and cranked it about 30 times and it finally started stumbling like it was gonna start. Eventually it started, ran like ***, and smoked like crazy, but once it burned off all the oil in tehre, it ran fine again. I then removed his VC and pur hondabond all over the plug cylinder gaskets and VC gasket to make sure there are no mroe leaks. Maybe it's just soemthing simple like that with yours? Is there any way you could set the crank to TDC and then take a good macro of the cam timing indicator you are talking about that shows it being off?

 

Heres my finally assembled Hydro Conversion.


Heres my modified clutch pedal (welded the hook solid shaved it to the width of the MC and drilled the proper size hole through)


This is what I had to do to the bracket to make it fit..


Just happy its all together. I advise holding off on the bracket until they get it right.
I still have to run lines and bleed it.. I have the reservoir mounted under the cowl..


Hope that helps anyone looking to do this..

 

Do you have to also take out the heater hose for the drivers side vent?

And did nick ever say why he took his out? I thought he had one.

 

I removed heat all together so Im not 100% sure.. but there isnt much clearance for anything else. A little worried about how the fuse box is going to sit back in. bleeding the MC with the dash back on is going to be a PITA.. anyone have any good ideas?

 

i just used the ITR 4x114.3 knuckles...bolted right up. I did use adjustable upper A arms for camber. For the rear I used an adjustable toe kit. The only real problem that I encountered were the ebrake cables...waaaay long.

 

Meh, I pulled mine out, but I can't complain. I had his original pedals that were welded up (not the later bracket). The modification was not done correctly so it didn't line up the clutch pedal and the m/c straight. I broke the clutch pedal, but fixed it by fully enclosing the welded on nut and adding more metal to strengthen it. After that I broke the clutch m/c. I bought another, went to install it and the pedal was still hard as hell. I would watch the whole pedal assembly flex like a mad man. I even replaced the whole clutch too (thought that was the culprit). I immediately pulled it all out.

Since the pedals were free (which is why I'm NOT complaining, just telling my story), I ended up spending over $500 on everything else including the new clutch. F*ck. Ryan uses the bracket and has no issues.

Meh.

 

Hey guys, sorry haven't posted in a while. Met up with UltimX on friday, nice guy, how he drove from norcal and back with a tranny and engine in a crx is amazing to me lol.

BtW, may have a upper civic seat foam avail soon (New in bo OEM) and floormats from a 89 civic Si (OEM)if anyone is interested.

This place has been moving slowly lately, are people over at en-double u-pee?

 

I find both pretty slow right now. But I'm busy trying to get my car together, but its not like I contribute so much to this thread anyways.

 

Anyone know the difference between a 99 si water pump and a 94 delsol water pump? Both b16's... Reason I ask is b.c I already have a BNIB pump and belt for a 99si and need to change them on my b16a(jdm crx si motor) Thanks.