For me it's an *** long ways away. 800 miles.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sour...e=UTF8&t=h&z=6

may as well do the gumball run if i'm goin that far haha.

My battery is dead again. It maybe sat 3 days, but drove fine for a good long while after I fully charged it. The Voltage was regulating at the alternator, and the voltage stayed good at the battery when I checked it. I guess the little pc680 or whatever needs to be replaced.

I won't be on here for a while. I leave for Seattle tomorrow, then we sail out for Alaska on a 7 night cruise!

 

These guys have the equivalent battery to the PC680 for a lot less. I won't ever go back to a tiny battery like that again though. Just too many battery dieing problems.

http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpow...yclebatteries/

 

I'm considering it. I would be trailoring my car to this meet if I did.

 

Its a good time, we get pretty trashed. I plan on bringing my crx for the show on sat and driving it home that day then coming back at night (i live less than an hour away)

 

I still want your civic hood bra

 

I have always wanted to go to the Niagra meet. I want to see the falls very badly. Too bad, it's almost 800 miles away for me as well. Maybe one day when I can afford a trip like that...

 

I got a little dilemma for you guys. Hopefully it doesn't go ignored

My brakes slowly locked up on me yesterday.

88 crx:

-da front and rear brakes with stock calipers, pads and rotors.
-earls stainless steel braided brakelines
-new steel hardlines and 40/40 prop valve


I had the crx sir booster and a 13/16" master until 2 days ago. My friend gave me a ls booster and 1" master. I didn't have the fittings and flare tool to use the master so I just used an eg 15/16" with the ls booster. I bled it all out and it was great. Until it locked up. I don't know what the deal is. I had to let some fluid out just so it unlocked. Anyone know what's up? Oh also now it pulls hard to the right. I know there's air in the lines now but I'm afraid if I bleed it it will lock up again

 

that caliper is probably siezed. You didn't buy them new did you?

 

No I didn't buy them new. I didn't buy them at all they came on the car. Been rocking them for 2 years without any issues. They both locked up together. Maybe it seized the left side. Because it feels like the only side biting is my driver side. The right side

 

i think i wanna sell my CRX. would anybody be interested in a cheap k20 crx? i don't have the resources to build this thing the way i want anymore.

 

how cheap is cheap lol, should we call you streetwerks?

 

Check the adjustment at your pedal, IIRC there is an adjustment there for pedal height, and if it goes off, it allows the system to lock up because it moves farther out than it should.

On another note - for batteries - you guys should look into Miata Batteries. 90 and up i think. Most are gel and small size but full crank capacity. Since they had to be mounted in the trunk where there was no venting. I think some had a little vent line run to the bottom of the trunk, but otherwise it is a gel cell. http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-maz..._campaign=Base

 

Is the crx fall meet is only for crx period or any ef is welcome?

 

No efs show up, its all cool.

 

wow screw that. i'm 2,600 miles away.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&sa...-8&sa=N&tab=wl

 

chech your pads. If wear is uneven then the caliper piston is going bad. Also check oil/fluid drips/leaks around the seal on the piston. That will assure you the seals are going bad.

 

$6000 for the shell and running swap. no wheels, suspension, cluster, and missing some general interior parts. thats the base price. asking price for how the car sits now would be around $8.5k. I don't think i'll get that for a car with faded paint, and not really mint so i'm really looking for someone who can put their own parts on and just wants to score a deal on a chassis and k-swap.

i am kinda getting rid of it for the same reason as streetwerks, but i've put about 10,000miles on the car since the swap. i'm sick of working on a car like this in a one-car driveway, on the wet ground....that part is just old.

hopefully one day i'll have a house of my own and i can build a garage. then hopefully i have enough money to build another car again. right now i'm lookig for something like a clean DC integra instead i think.

 

man, a k20 crx would be a blast to drive.

 

Yeah that's a good idea. I should check that. Maybe the pedal is already pressing on the piston even in resting position. I'll have to pull it and do that

 

I know the right side definately has uneven wear on the pad and rotor. I'll have to check for leaks thanks

 

g2 thats cheap!! lol

 

thats what i thought. ^

 

You should just fly out like ryan does. Im lucky that im in buffalo and its a stone throw away. Also you NEED a passport starting june 1. (or enhanced driver license)

 

I would rebuild all ur calipers and adjust the brake pedal. if one side has uneven wear then the others are probably goin to go out soon. build kits are cheap anyways

 

You may have a few issues at the same time, but from experience heres my theory. Your main issue is most likely with the booster/master cylinder. If you would have used the matched master cylinder with that booster, you probably wouldnt have an issue. But since you used a different master cylinder, you will most likely have to readjust the pushrod on the booster. There is a special tool for that, and after having adjusted 1 without using it, i can see why its a MUST HAVE for the job. Without the tool, its bascially trial and error, and until you get to where its adjusted properly, the brakes will continue to slowly lock up as you drive. Also, adjusting the pushrod from the under the dash is a royal PITA.