Ok, so here is the IM deal.... I can notch a small hole in the under hood webbing... Machine a 5 deg angle on the intake mani flange (same with the holes) and put the booster on the bottom... You guys think that will work?? I got the idea from Chris, and he got the idea from a kensler. I just dont want to jack up the hood in the back, or shim the eng down any.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Weed is good, my mom has cancer and it does her wonders I know about the intake mani, washers and hood proping up... Ya... thats not for me, id rather not have a rbc than have one with hood props </TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah, the weed keeps me sane, and not incarcerated. Which is good.


Yeah I hate the tilt myself. I think it will clear with the brake port removed, and maybe some grinding on the mani. I am gonna send my RBC to redzcstandard's brother, and have him mod mine. Gonna do like DTR did, and do a 105mm mustang throttle. Plus keep it low, and under the hood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so here is the IM deal.... I can notch a small hole in the under hood webbing... Machine a 5 deg angle on the intake mani flange (same with the holes) and put the booster on the bottom... You guys think that will work?? I got the idea from Chris, and he got the idea from a kensler. I just dont want to jack up the hood in the back, or shim the eng down any.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey dude the car and motor looks great! Im selling my ITBs and most likely going with an CNC'd RBC also. The 52mm haywards are too small for my setup, I bought a new K20Z3 head that has a stage 3 port/polish/valve job from cm colin mugen4f, well I traded my NR10s for it, should be here this week. Everyone says yeah dont worry the heads are the same but there are a number of differences, in away im regretting it, but im so indecisive anyways meh. The head should flow 30-40cfm over stock. I think later on down the road I will eventually get Kinslers but right now I dont want to deal with the issues getting them to work, fitting them under the hood, finding a suitable filtration system and figuring out making the PCV and other emmisions stuff work, I have too many other things to do on that car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RBC with tilt. Not a fan of the tilt, myself.



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I refuse to run my hood like that, only if it was an absolute must then I would. The whole raised hood is deceiving anyway. The hood has been raised at the back 1/2 an inch. If you look at where the RBC plenum sits ( pretty much in-line with the back of the headlight housing the hood is barely raised at all. Maybe 1/4 max since the pivot point (the latch) is in the same place. Im too lazy to calculate it but if you pivot a point 40 inches away up by half an inch, a point 10 inches from the pivot cannot be raised very much at all. That being said I really hope that milling the flange a few degrees with make the RBC fit. If that doesnt work then maybe 5mm between the motor mounts should most def do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20EF8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hey dude the car and motor looks great! Im selling my ITBs and most likely going with an CNC'd RBC also. The 52mm haywards are too small for my setup, I bought a new K20Z3 head that has a stage 3 port/polish/valve job from cm colin mugen4f, well I traded my NR10s for it, should be here this week. Everyone says yeah dont worry the heads are the same but there are a number of differences, in away im regretting it, but im so indecisive anyways meh. The head should flow 30-40cfm over stock. I think later on down the road I will eventually get Kinslers but right now I dont want to deal with the issues getting them to work, fitting them under the hood, finding a suitable filtration system and figuring out making the PCV and other emmisions stuff work, I have too many other things to do on that car.
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Nice Chris, ya, the z3 head is fine, I just dont like the water neck on the side, and a few other little odds and ends. I really liked the wheels too . The things we do to make power!!!

EDIT ya I was thinking the same, how does lifting the back really make that much of a difference.... I think it would be a negledgeable (sp) amount


Modified by Rywire at 12:33 PM 9/29/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so here is the IM deal.... I can notch a small hole in the under hood webbing... Machine a 5 deg angle on the intake mani flange (same with the holes) and put the booster on the bottom... You guys think that will work?? I got the idea from Chris, and he got the idea from a kensler. I just dont want to jack up the hood in the back, or shim the eng down any.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i think that cutting the manifold flange at an angle will work. i was planning on doing that when i get my kswap. lmk how it works out when you do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nice Chris, ya, the z3 head is fine, I just dont like the water neck on the side, and a few other little odds and ends. I really liked the wheels too . The things we do to make power!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>It was really hard to give up the wheels, I sat there looking at them for 30 min last time I went home, sucks.... Im selling the sw36 wheel, rare mugen horn button and pad also, no sense in having 3 steering wheels.
The Z3 head actually routes coolant a different direction. The Z3 block has a coolant diverter in it to route the coolant around the cylinder liners and the headgasket is slightly different to accomodate this. A guy on k20a.org couldnt get the diverter to fit in an a2 block so his motor runs slightly hot, im just scared my built block is gonna have hot-spots. He hasnt had any issues other than it idling hotter so I should be ok.

 

I love this vid, its an EP3 time attack car with a 300 crank horsepower K motor and ITBs skunk 2 stage 3s. Ahhh the sound, that is so damn sick! He runs in the same class as the Js racing CRX and is about a second a lap slower than it. I think it weighs 2000lbs vs 1600 for the Js but it has about 75 hp more
http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=...lated

 

Whats the ect at idle on his setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the harness direction, it goes headlight L, headlight R, over wheel well joining with engine harness, into cabin, to ecu, then to cluster and back... Pix of that later.
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ur wire tuck is gonna look insane!

 

btw, if u machine the rbc mani 5 degrees, wouldn't that throw off how it bolts in? (uneven pressure between the bolts and the manifold) i'd be scared of the mani cracking after tourqing it down...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reynardmauricio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw, if u machine the rbc mani 5 degrees, wouldn't that throw off how it bolts in? (uneven pressure between the bolts and the manifold) i'd be scared of the mani cracking after tourqing it down...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im going to have them grind it flat where the bolts sit... top will be ez (close to stock) and the bottom will be around half the flange thickness, but a nice flush bolt. I have it in my head, now I just have to get it done Thanks Rey