The Official EF Discussion Thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ Looks good
Full-race traction bar EF owners, what radiators are you running with your FR bar? I've decided since I sprung for the full Koni/GC setup to go for the Full-Race too. Also, where is the best place to order the bar from (other than Full-Race)...maybe somewhere slightly cheaper than $500? If there's nowhere else I'm gonna order it from there tonight before I regret it, lol.
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Full-Race Traction bar and Radiator from Full-Race.
Full-race traction bar EF owners, what radiators are you running with your FR bar? I've decided since I sprung for the full Koni/GC setup to go for the Full-Race too. Also, where is the best place to order the bar from (other than Full-Race)...maybe somewhere slightly cheaper than $500? If there's nowhere else I'm gonna order it from there tonight before I regret it, lol.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Full-Race Traction bar and Radiator from Full-Race.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Full-race traction bar EF owners, what radiators are you running with your FR bar?
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Im running a Koyo eg rad with my F-R traction bar. I used the ETD racing rad mounts brackets becuase the rad sits to high with F-R bar alone. Boost is in my future, thats why I went with this setup. The way the F-R bar is constructed dosent allow the ETD brackets to be mounted far enough to the pass side of the car; it sits too centered. I have plenty of clearance now but when it comes time for boost I may need to figure something eles out.
Full-race traction bar EF owners, what radiators are you running with your FR bar?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Im running a Koyo eg rad with my F-R traction bar. I used the ETD racing rad mounts brackets becuase the rad sits to high with F-R bar alone. Boost is in my future, thats why I went with this setup. The way the F-R bar is constructed dosent allow the ETD brackets to be mounted far enough to the pass side of the car; it sits too centered. I have plenty of clearance now but when it comes time for boost I may need to figure something eles out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gospeedgo1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, my timing belt tensioner finally came in. finally, timing belt/water pump/valve cover seals replacement.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would have given you a better deal. with MUCH faster shipping.
ask around.
i would have given you a better deal. with MUCH faster shipping.
ask around.
Just ordered my full-race bar
. Probably gonna run a stock rad just to get my car BAR certified hopefully before the end of this summer then tear it down again for paint
.
Also from a mechanical engineering perspective I really like how the full-race bar is designed. What most people don't realize is that the traction bar actually sees a lot of torsional dynamic loading (which is why, contrary to popular belief, there are so many failures with straight bars simply welded to brackets...the misconception is that the mounting points cause failure which is somewhat true, but the larger failure mechanism lies in reinforcement design). The only three bars that I've seen on the market with this support are Jimfab, Z10, and Fullrace (which is why there are less reported failures with these bars). Perhaps the Innovative bar too, but the single heim would put a lot of unnecessary wear on the weakest part of that system (the ball joints/bushings in the LCA). Okay, enough of my rant
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im running a Koyo eg rad with my F-R traction bar. I used the ETD racing rad mounts brackets becuase the rad sits to high with F-R bar alone. Boost is in my future, thats why I went with this setup. The way the F-R bar is constructed dosent allow the ETD brackets to be mounted far enough to the pass side of the car; it sits too centered. I have plenty of clearance now but when it comes time for boost I may need to figure something eles out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have any heat issues with the FR bar + half-rad and air going around it? I want to get into road racing where heat could be an issue but I also like how the half-rads give the engine a bit more room...Just wondering because FR offers both a half and full rad option.
Modified by 1989CivicSi at 12:59 AM 3/12/2008
. Probably gonna run a stock rad just to get my car BAR certified hopefully before the end of this summer then tear it down again for paint
. Also from a mechanical engineering perspective I really like how the full-race bar is designed. What most people don't realize is that the traction bar actually sees a lot of torsional dynamic loading (which is why, contrary to popular belief, there are so many failures with straight bars simply welded to brackets...the misconception is that the mounting points cause failure which is somewhat true, but the larger failure mechanism lies in reinforcement design). The only three bars that I've seen on the market with this support are Jimfab, Z10, and Fullrace (which is why there are less reported failures with these bars). Perhaps the Innovative bar too, but the single heim would put a lot of unnecessary wear on the weakest part of that system (the ball joints/bushings in the LCA). Okay, enough of my rant
. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im running a Koyo eg rad with my F-R traction bar. I used the ETD racing rad mounts brackets becuase the rad sits to high with F-R bar alone. Boost is in my future, thats why I went with this setup. The way the F-R bar is constructed dosent allow the ETD brackets to be mounted far enough to the pass side of the car; it sits too centered. I have plenty of clearance now but when it comes time for boost I may need to figure something eles out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have any heat issues with the FR bar + half-rad and air going around it? I want to get into road racing where heat could be an issue but I also like how the half-rads give the engine a bit more room...Just wondering because FR offers both a half and full rad option.
Modified by 1989CivicSi at 12:59 AM 3/12/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16chaos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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Can you post some pics of how the seats are mounted? I'm trying to figure out what I need for sliders, rails, etc.

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Can you post some pics of how the seats are mounted? I'm trying to figure out what I need for sliders, rails, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can you post some pics of how the seats are mounted? I'm trying to figure out what I need for sliders, rails, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heres the only pic i have,
we made two adapter pieces that arent shown to mount onto the sliders, just 2x12 steel, the only things that havent been modded on the car are the e brake and the mirrors...
Can you post some pics of how the seats are mounted? I'm trying to figure out what I need for sliders, rails, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heres the only pic i have,
we made two adapter pieces that arent shown to mount onto the sliders, just 2x12 steel, the only things that havent been modded on the car are the e brake and the mirrors...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Change »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So guys what do you make of this... When my car is cold it runs fine. When it warms up it runs like crap. It wont accelerate it just falls flat on its face when you give it throttle and it idles rough. This is <u>only</u> when its warmed up though.
ECU gives me code 16.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just noticed today that soon as it warms up the overflow fills up and the fan doesn't come on. It runs at 50-60% on the temp gauge.
I figure I'll pick up a new fan relay and a friend has a dpfi manifold that I'll swap in for the injectors. What else should I try?
So guys what do you make of this... When my car is cold it runs fine. When it warms up it runs like crap. It wont accelerate it just falls flat on its face when you give it throttle and it idles rough. This is <u>only</u> when its warmed up though.
ECU gives me code 16.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just noticed today that soon as it warms up the overflow fills up and the fan doesn't come on. It runs at 50-60% on the temp gauge.
I figure I'll pick up a new fan relay and a friend has a dpfi manifold that I'll swap in for the injectors. What else should I try?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have any heat issues with the FR bar + half-rad and air going around it? I want to get into road racing where heat could be an issue but I also like how the half-rads give the engine a bit more room...Just wondering because FR offers both a half and full rad option. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have any heat issues at all. When I installed the traction bar and rad I also removed all of my AC components as well; there is no air restriction at all now. Per Full-Race's instructions it does say that even though it does have mounting points for the full and half rads the stock rad is still too tall. Thats why I went with the ETD rad brackets...
I don't have any heat issues at all. When I installed the traction bar and rad I also removed all of my AC components as well; there is no air restriction at all now. Per Full-Race's instructions it does say that even though it does have mounting points for the full and half rads the stock rad is still too tall. Thats why I went with the ETD rad brackets...
I wonder if my built high compression ls would make better power with one of those victorX manifolds over my blox itr copy... I need to get the blox port matched to my 70mm throttle body...
I changed the hood release cable on my dad's 4dr today. Damn, that was a pita...remove, bumper, corner lights, t-bar, fender, and retain all the clips that held it and the fender liner in place. Oh and the trim piece btwn the bumper and hood is annoying as [freak]...Soo, glad I have a crx....although I want his 4dr as a daily...
I changed the hood release cable on my dad's 4dr today. Damn, that was a pita...remove, bumper, corner lights, t-bar, fender, and retain all the clips that held it and the fender liner in place. Oh and the trim piece btwn the bumper and hood is annoying as [freak]...Soo, glad I have a crx....although I want his 4dr as a daily...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Change »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just noticed today that soon as it warms up the overflow fills up and the fan doesn't come on. It runs at 50-60% on the temp gauge.
I figure I'll pick up a new fan relay and a friend has a dpfi manifold that I'll swap in for the injectors. What else should I try?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the fan switch on the thermostat housing. have you checked your spark plugs yet?
just noticed today that soon as it warms up the overflow fills up and the fan doesn't come on. It runs at 50-60% on the temp gauge.
I figure I'll pick up a new fan relay and a friend has a dpfi manifold that I'll swap in for the injectors. What else should I try?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the fan switch on the thermostat housing. have you checked your spark plugs yet?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Check front crossmember for tightness and radius rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks, It looks like its the radius rod bushings in the cross member. My new ones should be here tomorrow.
also does anyone know where I can find side molding clips for my 1990 crx. I checked online at the dealers but couldnt find the category or part #s
Check front crossmember for tightness and radius rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks, It looks like its the radius rod bushings in the cross member. My new ones should be here tomorrow.
also does anyone know where I can find side molding clips for my 1990 crx. I checked online at the dealers but couldnt find the category or part #s
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Change »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just noticed today that soon as it warms up the overflow fills up and the fan doesn't come on. It runs at 50-60% on the temp gauge.
I figure I'll pick up a new fan relay and a friend has a dpfi manifold that I'll swap in for the injectors. What else should I try?</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like the thermostat is stuck closed. and possibly a bad fan switch or wiring. when the coolant expands, it isnt opening up. its putting it into the overflow expansion tank.
just noticed today that soon as it warms up the overflow fills up and the fan doesn't come on. It runs at 50-60% on the temp gauge.
I figure I'll pick up a new fan relay and a friend has a dpfi manifold that I'll swap in for the injectors. What else should I try?</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like the thermostat is stuck closed. and possibly a bad fan switch or wiring. when the coolant expands, it isnt opening up. its putting it into the overflow expansion tank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't have any heat issues at all. When I installed the traction bar and rad I also removed all of my AC components as well; there is no air restriction at all now. Per Full-Race's instructions it does say that even though it does have mounting points for the full and half rads the stock rad is still too tall. Thats why I went with the ETD rad brackets...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm...I'll probably spring for the half-rad when I have enough saved up. Sucks that Full-Race has a 2 week lead time as their bars are made to order
I don't have any heat issues at all. When I installed the traction bar and rad I also removed all of my AC components as well; there is no air restriction at all now. Per Full-Race's instructions it does say that even though it does have mounting points for the full and half rads the stock rad is still too tall. Thats why I went with the ETD rad brackets...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm...I'll probably spring for the half-rad when I have enough saved up. Sucks that Full-Race has a 2 week lead time as their bars are made to order
Those of you with aftermarket seats (Sparco), what mount/slider are you using? I'm still trying to figure out what route to go. I don't think I want the ultra-low mount like the memory fab.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hmm...I'll probably spring for the half-rad when I have enough saved up. Sucks that Full-Race has a 2 week lead time as their bars are made to order
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just get a cheapie EG radiator and a mallet to massage the crossmember accordingly.
Hmm...I'll probably spring for the half-rad when I have enough saved up. Sucks that Full-Race has a 2 week lead time as their bars are made to order
</TD></TR></TABLE>just get a cheapie EG radiator and a mallet to massage the crossmember accordingly.
I'm using a sparco slider and mount on a 91 crx. Seat sits a bit high, but I'm short, so it works. I also have a CF fixed back that I use Sparco side mounts and I can set that quite a bit lower.
Here is a few of my new upgrades for the road course!

Rolled fenders, r comp tires, koni/ gc, wilwoods, hawk blue pads, kosei wheels, exc! I cant wait...
LMK if anyone wants my old brakes... I have the 90-93 teg claipers, hps pads, goodridge front brake lines, and the fastbrakes bracket for the 11" rotor... All you need is the corrado rotor and you have 11.1 brakes in the front.

Rolled fenders, r comp tires, koni/ gc, wilwoods, hawk blue pads, kosei wheels, exc! I cant wait...
LMK if anyone wants my old brakes... I have the 90-93 teg claipers, hps pads, goodridge front brake lines, and the fastbrakes bracket for the 11" rotor... All you need is the corrado rotor and you have 11.1 brakes in the front.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a few of my new upgrades for the road course!
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Are you using ingalls camber kit?
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Are you using ingalls camber kit?




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