The Official EF Discussion Thread
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 5,365
Likes: 2
From: 60ft garage, CA, USA
Re: (B16CRXT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can someone tell me if the obd1 and obd2 distributor plugs are physically identical? I know the wires are in different locations...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Different. Obd1 has 2 separate plugs while the obd2 has 1 single larger plug.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,568
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From: Anne Arundel, MD
Re: (B16CRXT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can someone tell me if the obd1 and obd2 distributor plugs are physically identical? I know the wires are in different locations...</TD></TR></TABLE>
u can use an obd-2 dizzy with an obd-1 ecu. but you do HAVE to switch the plugs on one side.
u can use an obd-2 dizzy with an obd-1 ecu. but you do HAVE to switch the plugs on one side.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 917
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From: Northwest Indiana/ South Chicago
Re: (g2_teg_)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2_teg_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
u can use an obd-2 dizzy with an obd-1 ecu. but you do HAVE to switch the plugs on one side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do share please.
I'd like to know how, I have a huge pile of bad obd-1 dizzys (6) and 4 or 5 good obd-2 and my car's obd-1.
u can use an obd-2 dizzy with an obd-1 ecu. but you do HAVE to switch the plugs on one side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do share please.
I'd like to know how, I have a huge pile of bad obd-1 dizzys (6) and 4 or 5 good obd-2 and my car's obd-1.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,087
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From: The Filthy South, USA
Re: (HondaFerris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFerris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks better in my opinion. I had a fully gutted hatch once, that was the worst mistake i ever made with the car lol 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
QFT!
</TD></TR></TABLE>QFT!
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,032
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From: CA, US
Re: (STDClayton)
Lol, gutted hatch really isn't that bad. If anything it reminds me of driving a completely stock Hyundai or bottom rung domestic car.
Edit -- I just realized that I know nothing of driving a gutted car...I run a Buddy club spec II so I can't hear anything anyways lol
Edit -- I just realized that I know nothing of driving a gutted car...I run a Buddy club spec II so I can't hear anything anyways lol
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,259
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From: Phoenix
Re: (1989CivicSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1989CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol, gutted hatch really isn't that bad. If anything it reminds me of driving a completely stock Hyundai or bottom rung domestic car.
Edit -- I just realized that I know nothing of driving a gutted car...I run a Buddy club spec II so I can't hear anything anyways lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
you also know nothing of hyundai's build quality. be more specific. i will give you the up to 2005my accents but beyond that they are all pretty nice and quiet inside. i would drive teh **** out of most of the new hyundai models before i got another ef jsut because it would be nice to have a brand new car without issues and a huge warranty. that and if anything did break i would have hyundai paying me to fix it. get paid to work on you own car and not have to pay for anything=win.
Edit -- I just realized that I know nothing of driving a gutted car...I run a Buddy club spec II so I can't hear anything anyways lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>you also know nothing of hyundai's build quality. be more specific. i will give you the up to 2005my accents but beyond that they are all pretty nice and quiet inside. i would drive teh **** out of most of the new hyundai models before i got another ef jsut because it would be nice to have a brand new car without issues and a huge warranty. that and if anything did break i would have hyundai paying me to fix it. get paid to work on you own car and not have to pay for anything=win.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
From: wi, us
Re: (Chronicsinners)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16chaos, That interior setup is hardcore. What is the car being raced in? Build thread 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks, i should have all the interior in the weekend, as far as racing this year, just autocross, and some lap days. this is going to be a tuning year..
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks, i should have all the interior in the weekend, as far as racing this year, just autocross, and some lap days. this is going to be a tuning year..
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,032
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From: CA, US
Re: (b16chaos)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you also know nothing of hyundai's build quality. be more specific. i will give you the up to 2005my accents but beyond that they are all pretty nice and quiet inside. i would drive teh **** out of most of the new hyundai models before i got another ef jsut because it would be nice to have a brand new car without issues and a huge warranty. that and if anything did break i would have hyundai paying me to fix it. get paid to work on you own car and not have to pay for anything=win.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I should've been more specific. Mid-90's bottom rung generic car Hyundai. They've really stepped it up these past few years and I'm actually looking forward to the upcoming Tiburon's release. Was just attempting to make a connection between limited sound-deadening and noisy car; hence "bottom rung."
you also know nothing of hyundai's build quality. be more specific. i will give you the up to 2005my accents but beyond that they are all pretty nice and quiet inside. i would drive teh **** out of most of the new hyundai models before i got another ef jsut because it would be nice to have a brand new car without issues and a huge warranty. that and if anything did break i would have hyundai paying me to fix it. get paid to work on you own car and not have to pay for anything=win.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I should've been more specific. Mid-90's bottom rung generic car Hyundai. They've really stepped it up these past few years and I'm actually looking forward to the upcoming Tiburon's release
. Was just attempting to make a connection between limited sound-deadening and noisy car; hence "bottom rung."
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,562
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From: Madison, WI, USA
Re: (1989CivicSi)
Gutted cars suck for street use. No point in removing the interior unless it's a track car.
Joe. Do me a favor and find out what part this is: 39540-SDA-A51RM. I bought an optional lower console for the LHD hatch from a guy on ebay. I paid $66 shipped. Sold it for $125 shipped. There was a Honda tag on the side with that part # on it. Just wondering if maybe it was the part # for it. Because I bought it for so cheap, I wondered if somebody that worked at Honda bought it and sold it to make some $.
Joe. Do me a favor and find out what part this is: 39540-SDA-A51RM. I bought an optional lower console for the LHD hatch from a guy on ebay. I paid $66 shipped. Sold it for $125 shipped. There was a Honda tag on the side with that part # on it. Just wondering if maybe it was the part # for it. Because I bought it for so cheap, I wondered if somebody that worked at Honda bought it and sold it to make some $.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,297
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From: I love the east coast, OH
Re: (civicandy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gutted cars suck for street use. No point in removing the interior unless it's a track car.
Joe. Do me a favor and find out what part this is: 39540-SDA-A51RM. I bought an optional lower console for the LHD hatch from a guy on ebay. I paid $66 shipped. Sold it for $125 shipped. There was a Honda tag on the side with that part # on it. Just wondering if maybe it was the part # for it. Because I bought it for so cheap, I wondered if somebody that worked at Honda bought it and sold it to make some $. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Navigation DVD ecu according to hondaautomotiveparts.com, but that site is wrong alot.
Joe. Do me a favor and find out what part this is: 39540-SDA-A51RM. I bought an optional lower console for the LHD hatch from a guy on ebay. I paid $66 shipped. Sold it for $125 shipped. There was a Honda tag on the side with that part # on it. Just wondering if maybe it was the part # for it. Because I bought it for so cheap, I wondered if somebody that worked at Honda bought it and sold it to make some $. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Navigation DVD ecu according to hondaautomotiveparts.com, but that site is wrong alot.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,281
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From: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Re: (HatchMo)
Fellow EF'ers, I had a revalation the other day.
I had been on the fence about modding (more than some basic bolt ons) my 91 CRX Si and had recently acquired a 89 Civic Si with a b16 swap.
I was looking at some of the "Classic" japanese car sites, and came to the conclusion that while a clean, unmolested pristine example of one of these CRX's may someday hold a higher value than a modified one, there generally isnt that much of a difference. Usually the modded one gets a higher price tag because of parts.
And I really dont want to have my CRX to just look at and occasionally drive. I bought it to enjoy.
So I will be taking the best parts off the civic and installing them on the CRX (the best combo of susp parts, etc) and keep moving forward, with the CRX being done up the way I would like, clean and tasteful but hella fun to drive, maybe seeing some HPDE events.
The Civic, well I'll drop my clean rebuilt A6 into it, clean it up throw my rota's on there and use it as my econo daily runner, since it does have a back seat I can fit my wife and daughter. Of course I'll clean it up well, and take it to some AutoX events since it'll be easier to class and have minor bolt ons.
I think this is the way to go and enjoy both as opposed to one being just a "Museum Piece" type car. Plus I dont think I could honestly leave it all stock, lol. I'm too old to just not have fun with them both.
Oh and I may be selling my 97 3.0 CL later if anyone maybe interested?
I had been on the fence about modding (more than some basic bolt ons) my 91 CRX Si and had recently acquired a 89 Civic Si with a b16 swap.
I was looking at some of the "Classic" japanese car sites, and came to the conclusion that while a clean, unmolested pristine example of one of these CRX's may someday hold a higher value than a modified one, there generally isnt that much of a difference. Usually the modded one gets a higher price tag because of parts.
And I really dont want to have my CRX to just look at and occasionally drive. I bought it to enjoy.
So I will be taking the best parts off the civic and installing them on the CRX (the best combo of susp parts, etc) and keep moving forward, with the CRX being done up the way I would like, clean and tasteful but hella fun to drive, maybe seeing some HPDE events.
The Civic, well I'll drop my clean rebuilt A6 into it, clean it up throw my rota's on there and use it as my econo daily runner, since it does have a back seat I can fit my wife and daughter. Of course I'll clean it up well, and take it to some AutoX events since it'll be easier to class and have minor bolt ons.
I think this is the way to go and enjoy both as opposed to one being just a "Museum Piece" type car. Plus I dont think I could honestly leave it all stock, lol. I'm too old to just not have fun with them both.
Oh and I may be selling my 97 3.0 CL later if anyone maybe interested?
Re: (RSZero1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh and I may be selling my 97 3.0 CL later if anyone maybe interested?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that thing is nice!
Oh and I may be selling my 97 3.0 CL later if anyone maybe interested?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that thing is nice!
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 0
From: UT
Re: (Mr_CRX)
I'm trying to isolate clunking sound, it seems like its on the driverside. Like its hitting the lower firewall.
When I do a shake down of the front end everything is tight.
so far I've replaced
- rack end bushing and adjusted up my gearbox
- Driverside outer tie rod
- replaced old shocks with GC /koni setup
It only makes this sound when I accelerate from a stop onto an uneven surface. ( like leaving my apt onto the main road dips down then back up) I also feel it in the steering wheel.
Which makes me believe that its somewhere in the steering column to the gearbox. Is there something in there that would make that noise?
I just dont want to waste money on the wrong parts...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2246987
When I do a shake down of the front end everything is tight.
so far I've replaced
- rack end bushing and adjusted up my gearbox
- Driverside outer tie rod
- replaced old shocks with GC /koni setup
It only makes this sound when I accelerate from a stop onto an uneven surface. ( like leaving my apt onto the main road dips down then back up) I also feel it in the steering wheel.
Which makes me believe that its somewhere in the steering column to the gearbox. Is there something in there that would make that noise?
I just dont want to waste money on the wrong parts...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2246987
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,967
Likes: 3
From: San Diego, CA
Re: (civicandy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.
Joe. Do me a favor and find out what part this is: 39540-SDA-A51RM. I bought an optional lower console for the LHD hatch from a guy on ebay. I paid $66 shipped. Sold it for $125 shipped. There was a Honda tag on the side with that part # on it. Just wondering if maybe it was the part # for it. Because I bought it for so cheap, I wondered if somebody that worked at Honda bought it and sold it to make some $. </TD></TR></TABLE>
must have been a random sticker...
that comes back as a NAVI DVD ECU notice the RM on the end of the part number? that stands for re-manufactured.
either way - MSRP : $335.83
Joe. Do me a favor and find out what part this is: 39540-SDA-A51RM. I bought an optional lower console for the LHD hatch from a guy on ebay. I paid $66 shipped. Sold it for $125 shipped. There was a Honda tag on the side with that part # on it. Just wondering if maybe it was the part # for it. Because I bought it for so cheap, I wondered if somebody that worked at Honda bought it and sold it to make some $. </TD></TR></TABLE>
must have been a random sticker...
that comes back as a NAVI DVD ECU notice the RM on the end of the part number? that stands for re-manufactured.
either way - MSRP : $335.83
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,259
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix
Re: (STREETWERKZ)
andy-the box would have had an sh3 part number if it were for a civic hatch. i have the original box mine came in sitting in the garage...i'll grab the p# off that if/when i go out there.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 5,365
Likes: 2
From: 60ft garage, CA, USA
Re: (InJ3cted)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InJ3cted »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm trying to isolate clunking sound, it seems like its on the driverside. Like its hitting the lower firewall.
When I do a shake down of the front end everything is tight.
so far I've replaced
- rack end bushing and adjusted up my gearbox
- Driverside outer tie rod
- replaced old shocks with GC /koni setup
It only makes this sound when I accelerate from a stop onto an uneven surface. ( like leaving my apt onto the main road dips down then back up) I also feel it in the steering wheel.
Which makes me believe that its somewhere in the steering column to the gearbox. Is there something in there that would make that noise?
I just dont want to waste money on the wrong parts...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2246987</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check front crossmember for tightness and radius rods.
When I do a shake down of the front end everything is tight.
so far I've replaced
- rack end bushing and adjusted up my gearbox
- Driverside outer tie rod
- replaced old shocks with GC /koni setup
It only makes this sound when I accelerate from a stop onto an uneven surface. ( like leaving my apt onto the main road dips down then back up) I also feel it in the steering wheel.
Which makes me believe that its somewhere in the steering column to the gearbox. Is there something in there that would make that noise?
I just dont want to waste money on the wrong parts...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2246987</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check front crossmember for tightness and radius rods.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Re: (Mr_CRX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that thing is nice!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man I appreciate it, and by the way props to Mr CRX, great seller, even got hooked up. Thanks again for the parts.
that thing is nice!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man I appreciate it, and by the way props to Mr CRX, great seller, even got hooked up. Thanks again for the parts.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,562
Likes: 0
From: Madison, WI, USA
Re: (STREETWERKZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
must have been a random sticker...
that comes back as a NAVI DVD ECU notice the RM on the end of the part number? that stands for re-manufactured.
either way - MSRP : $335.83</TD></TR></TABLE>
Must have been. I just thought it was strange that the price was so low. Oh well. I made a quick $50 on it.
must have been a random sticker...
that comes back as a NAVI DVD ECU notice the RM on the end of the part number? that stands for re-manufactured.
either way - MSRP : $335.83</TD></TR></TABLE>
Must have been. I just thought it was strange that the price was so low. Oh well. I made a quick $50 on it.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 7,361
Likes: 0
From: Normal, Illinois
Re: (civicandy)
So guys what do you make of this... When my car is cold it runs fine. When it warms up it runs like crap. It wont accelerate it just falls flat on its face when you give it throttle and it idles rough. This is <u>only</u> when its warmed up though.
ECU gives me code 16.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
From: wi, us
Re: (Change)
did some more work on the ride today.. new/semi new fastline shifter, got the dash in and modified my gas pedal
switches, fan, ambers, hi/low boost, launch and data logging
modified gas pedal
switches, fan, ambers, hi/low boost, launch and data logging
modified gas pedal
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,032
Likes: 0
From: CA, US
Re: (b16chaos)
^ Looks good 
Full-race traction bar EF owners, what radiators are you running with your FR bar? I've decided since I sprung for the full Koni/GC setup to go for the Full-Race too. Also, where is the best place to order the bar from (other than Full-Race)...maybe somewhere slightly cheaper than $500? If there's nowhere else I'm gonna order it from there tonight before I regret it, lol.
Full-race traction bar EF owners, what radiators are you running with your FR bar? I've decided since I sprung for the full Koni/GC setup to go for the Full-Race too. Also, where is the best place to order the bar from (other than Full-Race)...maybe somewhere slightly cheaper than $500? If there's nowhere else I'm gonna order it from there tonight before I regret it, lol.