I don't have anything to try it on. I suppose if my tuner and I can't figure it out tomorrow I will have him take my ECU and try it on his personal car.

 

A turbo car should be driven at least 150 miles mild driving NA, they tend to set clearances, rings alot better, and in the end allow for more power.

All engines should be broke in properly, they tend to last longer and live a better life when such is done.(that i have noticed, and heard)

The method we use out here is turbo engines, being broke in NA 150-500 miles city type driving on a base map. and NA engines, being slowly revved to 3500 rpms, engine brake down to 0, 4500 rpms, engine brake down to 0, and 5500 rpms engine brake down to 0. reapeat 3 times, on a base map. then off to get a proper tune.

Both types of engines should use just a normal 10w30, and be first started up, and let idle to operating temp. change oil(remove assembly lube) next oil change at 100 miles. then 500 miles and after that. then use whatever it is you want to use for oil. Full synthetic for me.

from the shops experience that uses this method, they have been making reliable engines that have been putting crazy numbers down on alot of engines. Like currently holding the record for the most corrected whp on a stock 350z block. and making 936 whp on a b18c1, with no port shop on the head. at 30psi( getting bumped up to 40 psi after a month of racing on the 30psi).

but hey thats just what we do out here in the mountain land. lol
so for me, i shall stick to reliable power methods that are proven to work, although this will test my patients, i ll deal with it

 

and it all depends on who you ask.
Everyone's got their own way.
LoL ask the muscle car guys about breaking an engine in!

Also, I guess I am failing to see the difference here when you keep mentioning breaking it in NA. If he doesn't hit boost it's still the same thing.....
A turbo is load based so unless he is beating up on it then he should be fine.

 

Why risk the temptation...? lol, its hard enough not to accidentally get in the moment with all that time you have been waiting to rip on it. Why temp yourself. it only takes pressing the pedal a little to far. Thats how i see it.

thats like saying you can eat, but only a salad, yet sticking a but load of steak and yummy food on the plate. How much self control do you truly have..? lol

 

And yeah matt i know what you mean on who you ask, but for me and my brother a guy designed, blue printed, and put our setups together. warranty against installer error, tuning error, basically blowing it up, comes with the engines. I basically have to go with how he usually breaks in engines to keep said warranty, like i said thats how we tend to do it out here in the CO.

 

dude WTF is that bullshit?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zS0BSGJR9kE

 

I think that dude hit every group thread, also what tuning software are you using..?

 

idk if its the wind hitting the camera but that doesnt sound right. you said you checked the timing right? something doesnt sound right.

 

it sounds fine. my microphone sucks. I'm running Neptune RTP. I just dialed back cranking fuel 10% and post start fuel 15% and fired right up!

 

ok i just thought i heard a weird noise but i guess thats just the mic.

 

sounds just like a turbo car to me. congrats sam! huge relief i'm sure!

 

i cant pass emissions testing, and i was wondering if turning down the fuel pressure during the test would help pass it??

i live in austin, travis county. my car is registered in travis county and the law says that i need to have a shop in travis county give me the sticker.

 

NICE!!!! Glad you got it started!
How did you come to that conclusion?
Next time just log it and post it up, I'll DL the Neptune software and look at the logs.

Get it on the dyno now!!!

Honestly I am not sure if it will help with emissions, why are you worried your car won't pass? What is the setup?

Lowering fuel pressure could cause you to run too lean, in which case you would

 

I thought about it allll day. I had set the injectors to a 2.2 ohm preset instead of a 2 ohm. So it was getting a little more fuel than intended. It would fire up and then die. So what was happening was it spinning up and dumping fuel. I just tried 15% back and 10% back on the cranking fuel and it fired right up. Idle is a little shakey but once that 30 second inital post start period is over, it holds true.

Street tuning first. Victor X, bigger TB, adjustable cam gears, and a boost controller before dyno tune.

 

Good job man!
Yea I had my buddy drive the car around a business park then on the road and did some street tuning so I could get it over to the dyno safely.

Victor x for sure, bigger TB isn't really needed. Plenty of FI cars make great power on stock tb. I actually have an S2k(62mm) TB on my car, my buddy has a stock N/A tb on his 550hp eclipse, other has a stock gsr tb on his 600hp hatch, you get my drift. On an FI car you should be fine with a stock TB and after all my experiences with aftermarket units, stock cast tb's are the best. Less **** to go wrong/break.

 

I thought about the s2k throttle body but they are hella expensive these days. I've already got a line on a polished Victor X and a set of Skunk 2 gears. You really don't think I would benefit whatsoever from a bigger throttle body? I suppose if I have 2.5" (~63.5mm...OD?) charge piping then I'm not going to benefit from an inlet bigger than the piping.

 

Yea they are, I got mine for free so why not.
I'm not saying you won't, you may pick up some more power somewhere but IMO you will be fine with a stock sized unit. Plus I think the Victor X is only 66 - 68mm on the inlet anyway. Forgot what it was when I measured it.
I think for setups like ours it's fine.

I had one of the DSM guys explain it to me because I was shocked they all use tiny TB's on their high hp setups. Something with what it does to the air when entering the mani.

ANDDD I guess you can only suck as much as the turbo pushes in.

 

Well needless to say it's impossible to find an LS block in good condition. All blocks I have gotten need to be bored because the shape they are in.
Looks like Im just going to suck it up and get some 81.5mm pistons and try to sell mine and make even.

 

If i was in pa i would have a ls block for you, ihave a spare one i pulled from a crashed car

 

im going to have a b18b with 60-70k on it on tuesday when i get this car home. i need money bad so i will sell it. when it comes out of the car i will take the head off and post up pics. the motor is the one on that blue rs that was forsale 2-3 pages back so you can read the description on it. i also have my old b18a from my grey car. it has low comp in 2 cyliders but its also got 190k on it.

 

Thanks guys but I'm pretty sure almost all LS blocks will need to be bored and cleaned up, since they are roughly on average 20 years old.
I'm just going to get new pistons and not take chances by cutting corners.

 

and yet again matt....i still have quite a few blocks sitting here... whats so wrong with the ones you've gotten that they "need to be bored"

 

The cyl walls are scored up and not in good condition.
I trust this machine shop, they are awesome.

I mean how many people do you see with a standard 81mm bore these days?

 

even if they're not scored, ANY of these motors have out-of-round cylinder walls. I would bore a motor with 65k on it.

 

Yea they could, I checked as much as possible but you never know. So when in doubt ima do it right.