DA Integra's Only
i would check fuel pressure like i stated, and make sure to use a spark tester or make a spark tester when you test spark(it should be able to jump 150 thousandths((the gap on a spark tester)), if it does the spark is strong. You might seem to have a healthy spark, but thats the rule out everything test for spark.
Its either spark or fuel, with both, no matter what it will at least try and run, might not run well or might want to try and die on you but the ecu should try and correct for what ever reason it assumes is wrong ie. fail safe mode.
also important sensors to check, MAP, TP, IAT. make sure the signal is correct and to spec.
other than those man, i cant really think of why you would be having this problem with good compression.
Its either spark or fuel, with both, no matter what it will at least try and run, might not run well or might want to try and die on you but the ecu should try and correct for what ever reason it assumes is wrong ie. fail safe mode.
also important sensors to check, MAP, TP, IAT. make sure the signal is correct and to spec.
other than those man, i cant really think of why you would be having this problem with good compression.
so i bought that blue da on the last page that was for sale and im baffled as to why it wont start. i replaced with known working parts, dizzy, wires, plugs, ecu and main relay and im not getting spark or fuel. any suggestions. the car is about 60 miles away so if i cant figure it out im getting it towed when my aaa kicks in on the free 100 mile tow. next tuesday.
the car is basicly stock. has b18b, crap exhaust and thats about it. its an rs, motor has 60-70k on it and shell has 209k. i checked spark with a spare lug in the end of a plug wire. im about to rent a uhaul truck to get it home if i have to.
the car is basicly stock. has b18b, crap exhaust and thats about it. its an rs, motor has 60-70k on it and shell has 209k. i checked spark with a spare lug in the end of a plug wire. im about to rent a uhaul truck to get it home if i have to.
I know a clean teg when I see one. From the looks of it, you have all three pieces for the side skirts as well! Finding the sides, fender caps and door inserts are a royal pain.As for a rear lip, there's one for sale on G2iC! It could use a little love, but hey it's something and it's cheap. Check it out.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...-Optional-Rear
anyone know if DA front shocks and EF and CRX shocks are the same, i got a box of KYB AGX brand new fronts and was gonna use them. but guess they dont fit newer civics(silly me thought all that was the same, guess not).
if anyone might be interested in them i ll let them go for 175 plus shipping.
if anyone might be interested in them i ll let them go for 175 plus shipping.
Some of us can't help you because we don't have to do any of that emissions stuff. Actually, I would venture to say MOST of us can't. Lots of guys from PA and the east coast. I'm from OH so nothing here like that here either.
it's due to noise that I even have a muffler 
Hmmmm, your issue is baffling!
What EMS do you have, log a startup and post it up somewhere. If it's hondata I can help you.

I'm running Neptune RTP. I'm not 100% on how to save a datalog but I can try to tinker with it tonight. I'm still a beginner on the tuning aspect.
I'd say log a start up, save it and load it somewhere and share it on the tuning section. People may be able to help.

Just found that I think I have Delphi injectors and not Bosch injectors. That means I actually have injectors rated at 2 ohms and not 2.2 ohms. After talking with..Chris?...of HR Tuning, he says that could definitely be contributing to the problem and that I will need to tweak fuel. Hopefully that's all there is to it!
have you tried putting your stock ecu back in and trying to start it like that? i've seen it happen before where modded ecu's have random problems n wont start a car, but as soon a stock ecu is put back in, bam, starts right up
Hmm, Ohm the injectors out.
Andy has a point, has this ECU been used on a running car before and worked without issue?
With 1000s it would have started, ran pig rich, smoked a lot then stalled out lol!
He doesn't need to break it in N/A. As long as he doesn't hit boost it's the same thing.
Besides, start it up, let it reach operating temperature/run for a bout 15 minutes. Change oil and voile, dyno time and rings are set!
Andy has a point, has this ECU been used on a running car before and worked without issue?
With 1000s it would have started, ran pig rich, smoked a lot then stalled out lol!
He doesn't need to break it in N/A. As long as he doesn't hit boost it's the same thing.
Besides, start it up, let it reach operating temperature/run for a bout 15 minutes. Change oil and voile, dyno time and rings are set!
I'm not breaking it in at all. It already ran in another car with a very similar setup to mine. The ECU has never been used in a car besides mine since I have owned it.
So the ECU did work in your car before the build?
LOL, sucks when your looking for 2 or 2.2.
No it was in my friends car that he parted out to buy a house. It ran great before that. It was built by "the" shop for Hondas in central Ohio. I have no concerns with the motor whatsoever. The ECU is completely new to me. New to me P28 with a new RTP unit installed.
Hmmm, find a car to throw that ecu in and vice versa.





